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joeforte
Oct 2, 2006, 7:38 PM
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Can anyone recomend me some climbs in the 5.10 to 5.12 range in the gunks that are easily toprope soloable? It would be hard to toprope solo a huge overhang, so the overhangs must be small, and anything over vertical would also be hard to work. Has anyone done any hard rope soloing in the gunks and can recomend any routes?
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adamd
Oct 3, 2006, 4:52 AM
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Haven't done it myself but here's a tip.
Go to the Nears just about any day and check out Mike who's probably TR soloing Slammin' the Salmon or To Be, both right next to Birdland. (and he's got them both ridiculously wired. Check out Birdbrain (11+) right there as well. I've only been on that and Slammin (not TR solo) but they are both great TR workouts.
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joeforte
Oct 4, 2006, 4:15 PM
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any more suggestions?
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piton
Oct 9, 2006, 12:50 PM
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bone hard
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granite_grrl
Oct 11, 2006, 1:16 AM
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So do you need easy access to the top of the cliff (where the climbs are less than one rope length?), or are you able to lead up the climb to either the top or to set up mid route?
Anyway, I just wouldn't think that the Gunks would an ideal place to TR solo.
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gunksgoer
Oct 11, 2006, 1:49 AM
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Check out jacobs ladder and squiggles direct (5.10). Both follow fairly strait lines, have interesting moves, and can be easily accessed by scrambling up the uberfall which is just 30 feet away.
Other than that I can think of retrobution, no solution, and nosedive but those all end midway up the cliff and will require you to either lead up or rappell from near the top of bunny. The largest issue though is that they are almost always busy/occupied and it would be very rude to take them up for a tr party so they are probably best left for weekdays.
Phoebe would be very easy to set up but it might wander a little too much across the face (havent done it in a while).
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gunkiemike
Dec 5, 2006, 2:27 AM
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Sonja, Stupid Crack et al on the Mental Block boulder (near Retribution).
Or go to Peters Kill and do all the 10's and the 11 around Oops. And a variation that's not in the book: the face right of Psycho Crack Right is 11a or so (the PS crack is off. Yea, it's an eliminate problem but worthwhile, and the bolt anchor is directly overhead.)
Finally, get to know Lost City - quite a few 10-12's there, many easy to set up for TR. Don't miss Brave New World, just right of Lost City Crack (ask any local to point these out to you).
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