|
|
|
|
roninthorne
Nov 18, 2006, 11:41 AM
Post #26 of 77
(3121 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 27, 2002
Posts: 659
|
Started the year splitting weekends between creating a new trail into Franklin Gorge and putting up three new routes there. Trailwork took three months (there were only two of us), new lines finished shortly thereafter. Meanwhile, put up some crazed onsite trad stuff out in the hinterlands of WV, mostly ground-up onsights in the 5.9-10+ range. Bolted up some projects that have kept me humbled, but I'm getting closer, and pushing myself back into cranking 5.11-12 on bollts.
Got permission to climb on a huge private wall about ten miles south of Seneca Rocks, revisited some old bolted areas from back in the day that STILL haven't been "discovered" by the Falcon Press masses, sent all my old testpieces in them and had a blast repeating all the old fun stuff.
Met with more landowners and reaffirmed access to several other plots of private lands N of Moorefield... hoping someday in the next four or five years to talk these folks into creating something like the Nelson Rocks Preserve. Meanwhile we're bolting, bouldering, traddin' and crankin' most every weekend, rain or shine or snow!
new lines-
Mean Streak 5.12-
Broken Angles 5.9+R/X
Stem Cell Research 5.8 PG (trad OW to roof to runout)
Little Miss Sunshine 5.10d PG trad
Crescent Direct 5.10
Moment of Clarity 5.11
No Stopping the Burn 5.9 PG
Firebreak 5.9R
Wintermute 5.9
Rifle Arete 5.12(?)
Have Rope, Will Travel 5.11+(?)
West Virginia Flyways 5.10d
Sandbaggers' Ball 5.10
Digital Protection 5.10R/PG
Cajun Sunshine 5.9 R/PG
Finally, proudest accomplishment, spent three weeks in Mississippi rebuilding from Katrina in the poorest town in that poorest of these United States. Over the last year, the group I'm with has placed 160 temporary shelters in the little town of Pearlington and that was the best "send" of all.
|
|
|
|
|
dr_feelgood
Nov 18, 2006, 12:20 PM
Post #27 of 77
(3119 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
|
Spent New Years Eve on CSC Navstar on the kuwait-iraq border.
Got to my camp January 3rd
Bought my first gear over the internet early in febuary.
Joined the Access fund because i had too much $$ and no climbing.
Worked at a checkpoint at the end of febuary
First IED strike beginning of april.
Bought more gear. A reoccuring theme.
spent too many hours on rc.com
Sent my first texas barrier problem, V0-
Read every climbing magazine i bought at least twice
Bought more gear.
donated to the laurel knobb fund
2nd IED Strike
found out i was going to be stop-lossed and have to come back to iraq
bought more gear
Went to qatar for 4 days
Found out i wasn't going to be stop-lossed, and would be able to get out of the army
Bought more gear
spent more time on RC.com
researched more gear
bought said gear
Pissed off the locals.
packed up our shit
missed Easter, christmas, halloween, turkey day, july 4th, and a whole bunch of climbing.
was replaced by incoming unit...
and that's my year so far.
|
|
|
|
|
kachoong
Nov 18, 2006, 2:34 PM
Post #28 of 77
(3107 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2004
Posts: 15304
|
This year has been very slow and sporadic for me. Only eight day on the rock, but some of those have been some of the best ever! I mean, what's better than to spend your honneymoon climbing?! Damn school is keeping me from outdoors. 
|
|
|
|
|
freeskicolorado
Nov 18, 2006, 2:51 PM
Post #29 of 77
(3103 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2004
Posts: 174
|
Let's see... this year I climbed... oh wait, no I didn't.
Actually, the year got off to a pretty decent start, minus two straight months of rain in Jan and Feb that almost completely killed skiing and ice season. Got a couple Gunks trips in during late March and early April, led a few classics (Jackie, Classic, High E, V-3), some of which I had done before, some I hadn't. Then in mid-April, at the gym, I dislocated the peroneal tendon in my ankle for the second time, which resulted in needing surgery.
Finally was able to start climbing again about a month ago, and was doing good for about two weeks until I sprained the OTHER ankle while setting problems for my home gym's ABS comp. Now two weeks after that, it finally feels pretty good again.
So I think so far I've been on real rock maybe a dozen times this year. I'm a little pissed about that.
The good news is I'm on my way out the door to go the Red, and I'll be there for two weeks. Before this most recent sprain, I was climbing stronger than I ever have (a lot of one-footed bouldering will do that), so it should be a good trip.
|
|
|
|
|
joe
Nov 18, 2006, 3:20 PM
Post #30 of 77
(3100 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2003
Posts: 897
|
flamer you fucking spraylord. hope your wrist heals up soon, we should go fire up some shiznaz again.
anway, i don't have much to spray about this year. scenic cruise, primrose and a bunch of bouldering.
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Nov 18, 2006, 6:46 PM
Post #31 of 77
(3075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
In reply to: I had a wonderful year
Me too.
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Nov 18, 2006, 6:51 PM
Post #32 of 77
(3074 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: flamer you fucking spraylord. hope your wrist heals up soon, we should go fire up some shiznaz again. anway, i don't have much to spray about this year. scenic cruise, primrose and a bunch of bouldering.
Joe you little bouldering homo! How ya been?
Dude I'm in!! Actually I have some ideas......
Wow! I just woke up and there are some kick ass stories on here. You guys had some hela fun years!
Glad to have you back DR FG....
Keep it coming!
josh
|
|
|
|
|
endercore
Nov 19, 2006, 2:32 AM
Post #33 of 77
(3050 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 100
|
climbed at the red about once a week
rock town
hp 40
murder branch
then climbed out west in the summer
a bunch on private land
turkey rock
garden of gods
red rock open space
parachute rock
|
|
|
|
|
billl7
Nov 19, 2006, 4:48 AM
Post #34 of 77
(3039 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890
|
When I started the year, I was wondering if I could routinely trad lead 5.7. Have since led about 30 routes with the majority being 5.7 and some 5.8 lately. Wooo-whooo! Most of that around NM.
Last April, had a truely fantastic trip to JT or JTree or whatever the locals call it  ... with a close relative of mine - our first autonomous major climbing trip. We are planning a repeat this coming spring.
It hasn't all been stellar error-free climbing/leading but thinking about it overall sure brings a  .
Thanks for the posts all. Keep 'em coming!
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Nov 20, 2006, 2:09 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Nov 19, 2006, 6:08 AM
Post #35 of 77
(3025 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
My climbing year has been great. Here's a list of places, with a * next to the ones that I'd never been to before.
*Red Rocks for the Red Rock Rendezvous
*Squamish
Smith
*Yosemite
*Tahquitz
*Joshua Tree
*Sedona
*Grand Canyon
*Zion
Moab
*Tetons
*Red River Gorge
*Devil's Lake
Next weekend I take off for Colorado and more Moab (I'm begining to really like the place) so the year's not over yet, and life is good!
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Nov 19, 2006, 6:08 AM
Post #36 of 77
(3024 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: Spent New Years Eve on CSC Navstar on the kuwait-iraq border. Got to my camp January 3rd Bought my first gear over the internet early in febuary. Joined the Access fund because i had too much $$ and no climbing. Worked at a checkpoint at the end of febuary First IED strike beginning of april. Bought more gear. A reoccuring theme. spent too many hours on rc.com Sent my first texas barrier problem, V0- Read every climbing magazine i bought at least twice Bought more gear. donated to the laurel knobb fund 2nd IED Strike found out i was going to be stop-lossed and have to come back to iraq bought more gear Went to qatar for 4 days Found out i wasn't going to be stop-lossed, and would be able to get out of the army Bought more gear spent more time on RC.com researched more gear bought said gear Pissed off the locals. packed up our shit missed Easter, christmas, halloween, turkey day, july 4th, and a whole bunch of climbing. was replaced by incoming unit... and that's my year so far.
Dr Feelgood, when you get back to the Land of the Big PX, you're welcome at my place anytime to try out all that shiny new gear ya got!
|
|
|
|
|
bodyboarder
Nov 19, 2006, 6:58 AM
Post #37 of 77
(3017 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 19, 2005
Posts: 298
|
whole lotta ups and downs....
Jason
|
|
|
|
|
boltdude
Nov 19, 2006, 7:57 AM
Post #38 of 77
(3008 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2002
Posts: 685
|
Really fun year! Last few months have been so much fun that I actually had to go look up where the heck I went in the spring (Red Rocks, duh...). Highlights that pop to mind: stellar 4 days in City of Rocks, awesome week at Lover's Leap (still can't believe that until this year I'd only climbed at the Leap 4 or 5 days about 10 years ago!), and a few days following harder stuff in Tuolumne & the Valley with a good friend.
But hands down, the best stuff this year - the most memorable - was only a few routes - all new, all granite, all ground-up first ascents, all hand-drilling if any bolts were used. A totally wild route at high altitude up a winding arete, with a hugely improbable overhung face pitch, that went at 10d when overhung Sierra granite rarely ever goes free. Another route with a long tricky-to-pro pitch that went onsight without pulling out the bolt kit, and the pitch after that, runout traversing over a roof with one of the least probable moves I'd ever pulled on lead. A couple sweet shorter routes that were high quality and steep and moderate. And a new multipitch route in the midst of a bunch of old-school late '70s/early '80s 5.11s - that went at only 10b! Sweet new routes thanks to some good educated guesses and a lot of luck! Great new partner (until he ditched the area to go get married and take a month-long honeymoon in Europe - OK, can't really blame him!). Memorable stuff, although City of Rocks & Lovers Leap were super fun.
Still plenty of time left in the year, might even get down to Red Rocks if my truck ever decides to make it past Bishop without another minor problem with a week-long wait for another minor part...(OK, the last one - headlights cutting out at night - was probably a bit more than "minor").
Fun topic Josh, ignore the detractors, they're obviously somewhere where it's raining or the nights are even longer than around here. Some people take climbing way too seriously, it's great to see some positive vibes from psyched people! It was actually a bit hot in the sun at Owens a few days ago, it's been a great fall season here in Cali - unless you want an early ski season...
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Nov 19, 2006, 3:16 PM
Post #39 of 77
(2993 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: Next weekend I take off for Colorado
Look me up if you need a partner or a place to stay.
josh
|
|
|
|
|
ter_bee
Nov 19, 2006, 4:00 PM
Post #40 of 77
(3000 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 20, 2004
Posts: 418
|
when i first saw this thread i thought, THANK YOU FOR ASKING!!! i can see how it might be perceived as arrogant, but i suck so nobody can accuse me of that:
this year i learned to trad climb.
the details don't seem so important -- anyway you can see a lot of the routes i have done in my profile. but learning it was the coolest thing i've ever done. and now that i know how, nobody can stop me! i have led up to 5.7 so far and so long as i can find fun multi-pitch routes that i can do, i don't feel particularly compelled to climb any harder. what i mean is i'm happy just doing the level i'm doing, in fact i want to do this til i'm blind or senile or can't lift my legs. i'm sitting here getting all sniffly just thinking about it. so...
thanks for asking. you guys are all better than i am, but i'm not sure you enjoy it more. wink.
(This post was edited by ter_bee on Nov 19, 2006, 4:13 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
Nov 19, 2006, 4:02 PM
Post #41 of 77
(2999 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
Okay, I was going to keep spray to a minimum, but I'll still put some grade-number wankery in here, since everyone else is as well.
2006--
JANUARY: Potrero Chico, I was climbing the best I ever had in my life. Highpoint was an ascent of "Sendero Luminoso" (V 12d) which was incredible.
MARCH: Trip to the Red River Gorge for the first time. Awesome sport and trad, and had an awesome guide. Thanks, Steph!
APRIL: Just a weekend trip to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas, nothing much.
MAY: Moved to Castle Valley, Utah. A bunch of Tower routes with Amanda Smith of Missouri, who is an excellent crack partner, including North Face of Castleton (11a), Fine Jade (11a), and a bunch of Indian Creek routes.
JUNE: sport climbing in Mill Creek Canyon, bouldering, and not much else.
JULY: back to Texas to teach a month class, and did some awesome Deep Water Soloing and first ascents on the overhung limestone choss of Lake Whitney.
AUGUST: sporadic summertime cragging at Indian Creek, where even in the summer it is still climbable in the shade.
SEPTEMBER: While rapping Castletone Tower, I redpointed the crux pitch of "Sacred Ground," a 5.12b face climb on Castleton. I still need to free the entire line, though. Later that month, I went to Arizona, climbed with some awesome rc.comers at The Pit, Oak Creek Overlook, Paradise Forks, and Priest Draw.
OCTOBER: More climbing at the Creek. I also bought a whitewater raft and did Westwater Canyon on the Colorado for the first time in over five years, but what does that have to do with climbing?
NOVEMBER: Climbed at the Gunks for a few days while back east. Some of the best trad I've done anywhere. Also more cragging at Indian Creek.
still to do this year: Primrose Dihedrals, redpoint Sacred Ground, check out Greg Child's arete route "Excommunication" on the Priest, and find a project at the Creek to occupy my time.
It was a good year. And I didn't even have to use my AK.
Next year's to-do list: I still need to get to Zion sometime, check out the Needles, CA, climb this secret desert tower, climb that secret desert tower, redpoint "Aesthetics" in Mill Creek, check out "Cloud Tower" and the "Regular Route" of Rainbow Wall in Redrocks, and find a job that will keep me in the Moab area!
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Nov 19, 2006, 11:45 PM
Post #42 of 77
(2963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: you guys are all better than i am, but i'm not sure you enjoy it more. wink.
Way to hit the nail on the head....
Who care'show hard you climb....it's the fun you have along the way!!!
josh
|
|
|
|
|
perionychium
Nov 19, 2006, 11:56 PM
Post #43 of 77
(2962 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 37
|
Although, I have been climbing on-and-off for five years, this year is my first real year climbing.
I seconded on my first-ever multi-pitch climb in North Conway. I did a lot of lead climbs in Rumney and TRed a ton in Quincy Quarries (although we weren't able to climb when they were shooting that Ben Affleck film.) I discovered some fun bouldering in CT, Pawtuckaway, and Lincoln Woods and I met a ton of awesome climbers with amazing stories.
This past climbing season was fantastic, my mere love of the sport has erupted into a severe obsession.
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Nov 20, 2006, 1:11 AM
Post #44 of 77
(2952 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Great freakin' season! ...just started climbing in Aug...started leading trad in late September... Recent highlights:
Gunks:
Limelight 5.7 OS (lead)
Something Interesting 5.7+ OS (lead)
CCK Direct 5.9 OS (follow)
Arrow 5.9 OS (follow)
NRG:
Entertainer 5.10a OS (TR)
High Times 5.10c hang dog (lead)
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Nov 20, 2006, 1:51 AM
Post #45 of 77
(2943 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
I had a great year. As usual, the climbing was better and harder than last year.
Winter: Pushed my limits in J-Tree. I don't remember specifics, but know it was a blast.
Spring:
Hit up Indian Creek for the first time and had many 5.11 onsights and one 5.11d redpoint (Coyne Crack). It was amazing and I can't wait to go back.
Summer:
Atlantis (Needles) 5.11d redpoint
Astroman onsight
Green Arch (Tahquitz) 5.11c onsight
Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk 5.10b onsight
Fall:
Went to Greece and Italy climbing and travelling. Less than 1/3 of the time was spent climbing, but I did manage to onsight multiple 5.12s and made it to Kalymnos, a true climbing mecca.
East Face Whitney onsight solo
Keeler Needle 5.10c onsight (this was my first time over 13,000' not getting altitude sickness so this was a GREAT time!)
My friends and i threw a BBQ on top of Intersection Rock and I climbed the N Overhang naked. What a great weekend!
Last weekend I redpointed my first 5.12a trad: Leave it to Beaver
Winter:
I plan to start working on more 5.12s in Joshua Tree NP and possibly other areas, maybe even a "5.13a" at Riverside Quarry (read 5.12c most likely. I also have a trip planned to go climb La Joya down in Mexico.
Josh (flamer), I'm slowly getting better. I'd really like to go back and try Rainbow Wall with you again, but this time free the whole thing. What do you think?
Josh
(This post was edited by bandycoot on Nov 20, 2006, 3:34 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Nov 20, 2006, 6:28 AM
Post #46 of 77
(2921 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
In reply to: Josh (flamer), I'm slowly getting better. I'd really like to go back and try Rainbow Wall with you again, but this time free the whole thing. What do you think?
Dude you are climbing strong!!!
I'm in!! I love that route!!
Maybe this spring sometime?
josh
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Nov 20, 2006, 4:47 PM
Post #47 of 77
(2900 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
Yeah, let's do it! Only this time, we'll try to finish in time to link it to something sick. I have a friend who got all the moves free last fall, so I'd love to go back. Especially now that we know how small the rack is. It will also be really good training since I want to do Romantic Warrior this spring and I think that they are really similar!
|
|
|
|
|
stonefoxgirl
Nov 20, 2006, 5:27 PM
Post #48 of 77
(2895 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 595
|
Let's just say, I'm REALLY looking forward to NEXT year.......
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Nov 20, 2006, 5:40 PM
Post #49 of 77
(2892 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
I had a pretty good year, despite some setbacks.
climbed in Yosemite, did my first wall and a bunch of other great climbs. met a lot of cool people there.
Climbed a TON at Lover's Leap, my local crag. met some cool people there too!
Did two trips to Joshua Tree. Lots of good cracks, several, um, exhilirating, face routes. Met lots of cool people, enjoyed tasty meals at crossroads, santanas, and that indian place.
A number of other good days at other crags in the region, including a fun day yesterday out at the grotto. met some cool people!
Had some friendly canadians I met last year in Josh stay at my place for a few days, before they continued on to Red Rocks. Showed them around at Lover's Leap. A couple of my most fun days of the year.
All that, despite losing about 4 months to two hand injuries... so I'm pretty satisfied. Got a lot of time in on the road bike, rode a century in october, ran a 5k with some friends on saturday, and kayaked a fair bit as well.
And my number one accomplishment in 2006?
I DIDN'T DO A SINGLE BOULDER PROBLEM! 
|
|
|
|
|
docburner
Nov 20, 2006, 6:35 PM
Post #50 of 77
(3076 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 192
|
An update to my year is that I did finally get my first 12 redpoint and I did some trad leading, which were my two goals for the year.
|
|
|
|
|
|
