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blazesod
Dec 14, 2006, 6:26 AM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
Posts: 249
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Hey everyone,
Please post any existing bolts, hangers or rings that are in need of repair or replacement throughout Joshua Tree National Park. The intent is to have them inspected and fixed or replaced if needed.
list with as much info as you have
EX) aluminum rap rings, above "Chuck Wagon", Corral wall
Cheers,
Dave :)
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caughtinside
Dec 14, 2006, 8:34 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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there is a hardcopy of this 'hit list' at nomads.
i flipped through it last time I was there, I think a lot of the reported mank has been replaced.
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bandycoot
Dec 14, 2006, 9:03 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
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Thanks to all those that help replace bolts. I hope to be part of the effort in the near future.
The 3rd protection bolt on White Rain could be replaced, although I got a truely manky rp in above it. If that bolt failed, it would be a pretty ugly lead fall to say the least.
The Last Unicorn needs some work. The bolts are bunk ona very runout lead (reported from many people to me when I say I want to lead it). I'll update if I find more.
Again, Thanks!
Josh
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j_ung
Dec 14, 2006, 9:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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I know first hand how big a job this can be. NRAC has undergone a similar effort all over the New and surrounding region. We may not be done in my lifetime. 
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timm
Dec 14, 2006, 11:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
Posts: 314
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Haven't seen the list in Nomads recently but a few off the top of my head ...
3rd bolt on Cactus Flower (Rawl 5 piece) is sticking about 1/2" out of the wall. Too chicken to lead that route with the bolt the way it is ...
Anchors on top of Billboard Buttress (on top of We Dive At Dawn) belong in a museum... they are probably more than 25 years old and total mank
Anchors on top of Frolic Tower (Stirrup Tank) are mank and the three bolts are separate by about 6 feet so it's next to impossible to attempt to equalize an anchor using them.
Alot of the routes in the Short Cake Rocks area are bad including 1/4" button heads with angled aluminum stock hangers on one unidentified route.
Cunning Route near Split Rocks is a great route with mank ... Old rawl button heads with orange homemade hangers.
Beam Aboard near Creeper Rock in the Live Oak Area.
Climbs in the Den of Doom (East Face) in Hall of Horrors are pretty bad.
The crux of Laegar Domain is protected by an old rusted button head. It would be more fun to lead if this were replaced by something modern.
There is a Todd Gordon 5.10a route about 100 yards left of Life's a B*tch and Then You Marry One were the bolt holes in the hanger are almost bigger than the head of the Rawl Button Heads. Not too big a deal for a slab except for the last one on the overhanging crux. Seems like a fall on it would lever the hanger right off the button head. Don't remember the same. It's in the Bartlett guide to the area but not the Vogel guide.
It's not like any of these routes are destined to be classics but it's sometimes fun to climb out-of-the-way stuff (especially during holidays).
Someone recently beefed up the anchor on Finger Bowl in Stirrup Tank. To whoever it was ... "Thanks!!"
I'm sure I'll come up with more mank if I actually sit down and think about it. Let me know if you need any help doing any of the work. I'm close to JT and climb there 3-4 days a week.
Tim
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epic_ed
Dec 14, 2006, 11:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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timm wrote: Anchors on top of Billboard Buttress (on top of We Dive At Dawn) belong in a museum... they are probably more than 25 years old and total mank
Ditto this. I vowed to replace them about three years ago, but then never made it back that way to do the deed. And now I couldn't get to the top unless someone put up a ladder, so...if they haven't been replaced I'd place these high on the priority list.
Ed
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timm
Dec 14, 2006, 11:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2005
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As of two weeks ago, they had not been replaced. Luckily they can be backed up with a so-so cam ...
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Stone-over
Jul 5, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2007
Posts: 3
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The first bolt protecting Lower Right Ski Track is spinning freely. It's a popular route in that area and it's protecting a fairly bouldery move, so it would be helpful for many people.
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