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jaybro
Dec 22, 2006, 2:30 AM
Post #26 of 33
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bandycoot wrote: I think that there was some pretty good 5.10 #2 C4 splitterocity on the upper pitches of Tricks of the Trade if I remember right.
Yeah, and only a couple of hard moves before that. hehe
How about Neutron Dance?
and if other movespitches below are to be ignored, the 10b hands pitch on Hotline.
Plumbline in Vedauwoo though it's short, is kinda like that.
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timl
Dec 22, 2006, 9:28 AM
Post #27 of 33
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Registered: Jun 8, 2004
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This is a bit off topic, but I hopefully will be heading to Indian Creek for the first time here soon. How big of a rack should I bring? I'll be there for a while and I'm interested in climbing up around 5.12ish. after I get used to sandstone, I'm more of a granite climber. Also, whats the story about taking big falls on gear. Sometimes I heard that its not a good idea and then others have told me not to worry.
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lunabruandabby
Dec 22, 2006, 12:21 PM
Post #28 of 33
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Registered: Aug 2, 2005
Posts: 89
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Heart of the desert in Arches?
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valygrl
Dec 22, 2006, 5:32 PM
Post #30 of 33
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Registered: Jul 8, 2002
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Tim, as Angry said, yeah you need a lot of gear. If you are planning on finding partners there, just bring every cam you have, don't go out and buy stuff. I guess it would be good form to have at least doubles of everything, although more is better. Mark all your cams and biners (pink tape is best, ha ha).
You'll be sharing cams with your partners. It's a great place to climb in a group, each person brings all their cams and a rope to the crag, you share gear and leave your rope up for your partners to TR.
If you are bringing your own partner... then what angry said.
It's not uncommon to place up to 10 cams the same size on a climb - but you don't have to own them all.
See ya...
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areyoumydude
Dec 24, 2006, 10:34 AM
Post #31 of 33
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Registered: Dec 28, 2003
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lunabruandabby wrote: Heart of the desert in Arches?
Great climb, but It's not hands and it's not a splitter.
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lonequail
Dec 24, 2006, 5:30 PM
Post #32 of 33
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Registered: Jun 8, 2004
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The upper part of "Deseret Moon" at the Cat Wall is a great hands splitter protected with a bunch of #2 Camalots. The first part of the climb is challenging, but is probably aidable.
The upper part of "Jolly Rancher" at Pistol Whipped also fulfills your criteria. The crux start is moderately difficult fat fingers/tight hands, but it is perfect hands above. There might be some wide hands in spots, but the predominant size is #2 Camalots for a long ways.
Feel free to PM me if you want a gear list.
Have fun.
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sixleggedinsect
Dec 28, 2006, 8:44 AM
Post #33 of 33
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Registered: Apr 14, 2004
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lonequail wrote: The upper part of "Deseret Moon" at the Cat Wall is a great hands splitter protected with a bunch of #2 Camalots. The first part of the climb is challenging, but is probably aidable.
i secodn the vote for desert moon. i havent come close to tapping the creek out, but that last stretch was the best perfect hands ive ever done. the direct flare chimney start is thin and desperate. easier out left with the chossy death blocks. worth it, though.
In reply to: The upper part of "Jolly Rancher" at Pistol Whipped also fulfills your criteria. The crux start is moderately difficult fat fingers/tight hands, but it is perfect hands above. There might be some wide hands in spots, but the predominant size is #2 Camalots for a long ways.
hm. i remember jolly rancher as a #3s crack
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