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caveclimber
Sep 15, 2002, 12:47 AM
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Today I went to Mt. Magazine and saw 4 guys climbing. I watched them climb a route called Multi-Colored Poptart. The bolts looked ok. They climbed it a few times and were let down by their belay. Until one of them decides at the top of the climb he would untie from his belay and decend on a atc. Which of course his belayer had and had to send it up to him. Not his belayer or his other buddies tried to tell him to stay tied in. I had to leave because I did not want to perform a needless body recovery. What do you think of this. I am I just over cautious or what?????
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-09-16 13:08 ]
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climbinganne
Sep 15, 2002, 1:15 AM
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personally i never climb without my atc, but did he clip in, before he untied???
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jhump
Sep 15, 2002, 1:16 AM
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He was going to rappel with his ATC which is the choice method of descent if you don't want to lower-off and tear up the shuts. A good idea.
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alpinerocket
Sep 15, 2002, 1:33 AM
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The guy may have forgot to tie in.
I would recommed a friendly reminder to his belayer to remind the climber to tie in.
I personally would not have left the area untill I knew the guy was safe.
People do make mistakes. That is why I allways double check my partner and they in turn check me.
Just my ethics John
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hallm
Sep 15, 2002, 2:45 AM
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I'm not sure you have given enough information to make an accurate safety assessment. Did he clip into the belay and then untie, send the line down, bring up the ATC and then rig and rap? If so, that would not necessarily be unsafe, so long as he was clipped into at least two (and preferrably three) anchor points. Also, it would depend what the top of the route looked like. If it was fully flat, or had a huge ledge, then untying may be safe, regardless if he was clipped into the belay (although clipping in is always best, in case of rock fall, etc.)
Any time you are going to rap a route, you need to untie at some point. Otherwise, you cannot run the rope through the rappel anchors.
Feel free to describe the situation more so a more accurate assessment can be made.
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deafclimber
Sep 15, 2002, 2:59 AM
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he should know munter hinch knot if he is without belay device !
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caveclimber
Sep 15, 2002, 5:16 AM
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Sorry I did not explain better. He untied from his harness to make himself off belay. He was clipped in to one old anchor point by a draw. I sorry but I just don't trust old anchors that much. I would have tied in more, or went to top to be safe.
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jerrygarcia
Sep 15, 2002, 2:54 PM
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Quote:
Sorry I did not explain better. He untied from his harness to make himself off belay. He was clipped in to one old anchor point by a draw. I sorry but I just don't trust old anchors that much. I would have tied in more, or went to top to be safe.
If he was on a nice legde when he tied into that "old anchor" it was probably no big deal. It would be a different story if he set up a hanging belay on an "old anchor"
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