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jabtocrag
Jan 9, 2007, 1:15 AM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
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So I'm heading out to Utah for some skiing at the end of January and was thinking of taking a day to ice climb. Any recommendations on easily accessible, single pitch climbs for someone without too much ice experience. I've only been a hand full of times, so I don't want to get in over my head. Thanx for any info.
Justin
(This post was edited by jabtocrag on Jan 9, 2007, 1:18 AM)
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ddriver
Jan 9, 2007, 6:57 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
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There are three fairly reliable flows in Little Cottonwood: the Great White Icicle, Scruffy Band, and a slab climb in between whose name escapes. GWI is typically roped in 5 pitches, but you could look at just climbing the first 2 or 3 pitches and rapping off. This is not at all uncommon. The first pitch is very short and often difficult to protect, but you can typically get in a couple stubby screws and essentially hook through the moves. The second pitch is a 60-degree ramp that is good beginner terrain. The third pitch is the most straightforward steep terrain (80 degrees) on the route, grade 3, and is probably within your ability. You can rap here as well. GWI is almost always busy so you might be able to find a partner there. If you manage to climb the whole route you can and should walk off to the right. Scruffy is at the mouth of LCC and has one reliable flow and a couple other flows that sometimes come in shape. The center flow is one full rope length to a bulge with an easy exit below the bulge. Its also grade 3. There's a grade 5 curtain that sometimes forms below the rap route, so you have a TR possibility there. You can see some pics here: http://www.climb-utah.com/WM/lcc-ice.htm
The next best option is to go down to Provo Canyon and climb routes in the Stairway/Bridal Veil area. This ice is consistently steeper than LCC. You can find a number of options from grade 3 to 5. Some of these routes lend themselves to top-roping. This area can be subject to avalanche hazard so if there's been recent snow or a warm-up, check with the forecast center before driving down.
There's a Falcon guide to Utah Ice by Dave Black if you're interested.
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jabtocrag
Jan 9, 2007, 8:55 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2003
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Thanx for the info.
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