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climbnjump
Jan 22, 2007, 1:25 AM
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Registered: Nov 15, 2006
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back in 94 i did a climb here, if you look in the swain guidebook, on page 13,it runs up the face a little left of midway between the crack for (10&11)"you are what you eat" and (12) "f this sport" around the arete. start is over a small overhang off the ground to the first bolt, then past 2 more to run it out to the anchors.
just wondering. i remember it being pretty thin and slabby/bulgy, i think the tough move was off the ground over the bulge if i remember correctly. any help is appreciated.
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stevej
Jan 22, 2007, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Jul 23, 2003
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This is the route Caliban 5.8
Swain give it a PG rating, which is silly, since if you were to fall going near the anchor, you would deck from about 60 feet up. Granted this is unlikely, as the climbing there is about 4th class, but still a silly runout on this climb.
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climbnjump
Jan 22, 2007, 2:23 AM
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stevej wrote: This is the route Caliban 5.8 Swain give it a PG rating, which is silly, since if you were to fall going near the anchor, you would deck from about 60 feet up. Granted this is unlikely, as the climbing there is about 4th class, but still a silly runout on this climb.
ya, i remember stoopit runout to the anchors about decking height.i think i mentioned it to my buddy about if i came off from up there. sounds like it. i was just browsing through my guidebook cause ill prolly be in vegas in april, and i saw i drew in a line on the topo pic and was curious about it.
im also not sure of another climb, im thinking it may be waterstreak, but im not sure if its it or not. i think i remember bolts but i didnt use them and just protected the climb trad. maybe this pic helps.
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redrockhole.jpg
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stevej
Jan 22, 2007, 2:24 AM
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Registered: Jul 23, 2003
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Sorry, this one I can't help you with. Honestly, I've seen better pictures of bigfoot and nessie than you have of this climb here... But if you tell me exactly where it was, I could probably figure it out for you.
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climbnjump
Jan 22, 2007, 2:30 AM
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hahaha funny. its all i had. its an old pic. hows somewhere between the first pullout and sandstone quarry. it was 12 years ago........i dont remember. i probably dont have it marked because i just scouted out some line and went for it. thanks anyway, and if i do find any of my bigfoot sighting pics, ill send em your way........
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jason_martin
Jan 22, 2007, 2:37 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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That route is called High Wire. It's a 5.9 on the Circus Wall. Waterstreak is a bolted, but run-out, route found in the Tuna and Chips area.
Jason
(This post was edited by jason_martin on Jan 22, 2007, 2:38 AM)
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climbnjump
Jan 22, 2007, 2:46 AM
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Registered: Nov 15, 2006
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thanks guys. ive done a couple routes on that wall, so it probably is one of them. i did know it was somewhere at the beginning of the loop road.
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