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the_dodgester
Sep 19, 2002, 3:31 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2002
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I don't know wether this should have gone into the sport section or this one but never mind.
I have just started leading on the competition wall at my local climbing gym. I quite enjoy the added satisfaction and fear factor or leading but i have a small problem, my belayer.
When i try to clip in i have to shout slack about five times and then pull the rope before he gets the message. Also whenever i am trying to go above the point i'm clipped into he doesn't give me ne slack. I took a pretty big fall the other day because he wasn't paying attention when I stopped falling i looked down and saw he wasn't paying any attention and when i got down to the bottom of the wall he asked me why the rope had gone tight(i'm just glad he was paying enough attention to keep hold of the rope).
I've tried suggesting things to improve his technique and asked him to pay a little more attention, but he doesn't seem to take ne notice. Does ne1 have ne ideas of how to get him to improve?
I have seen others lead climbing and their belayers take notice of them so when they reach the next clip there is already slack in the rope, unlike me who has to hang on for awhile to get the slack. Am i just being unreasonable or am i alrite expecting my belayer to pay attention and pay out slack when it is needed.
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jman
Sep 19, 2002, 3:46 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2002
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I don't think you're being unreasonable at all. It doesn't sound like your climbing partner knows how to give you a good belay at all. Sounds like you'd be better off climbing with another more attentive partner. I know for me to climb my best I need to have a good deal of trust and some confidence that my belayer knows what they're doing, or else I find myself holding back.
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tenn_dawg
Sep 19, 2002, 4:04 PM
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Registered: Mar 14, 2002
Posts: 3045
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Buddy,
Some people just suck at belaying. I think there is a gene for attentive belayers that just got left out of some people. Keeping the lead line tight is one of my biggest annoyances. Something I'm scared of, however, is a belayer who is not paying attention.
I have close friends who I refuse to climb with because of poor performance belaying me. The way I see it is they've got my life right there in their hands, and if they dont treat that with the responsibility it deserves, then they can find someone else to climb with. Perhaps I'm a little harsh about this, but it's just the way I am.
Travis
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ajkclay
Oct 8, 2002, 4:44 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
Posts: 1567
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Just explain to him that he is stopping you from being able to climb effectively, and risking your life by not paying attention. If he wants to watch anything other than you while you are climbing, then what is he doing on the other end of your rope?
Ask him this. Next time he is top roping an overhang, keep the rope really tight so that the rope keeps pulling him off, then make a point of saying how important it is for the belayer to be as much a part of the climb as the climber.
Ummmm don't do this outdoors, only indoors, and when you are sure of the security of the belay point.
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crazywacky
Oct 8, 2002, 5:33 AM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
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I have to agree with the previous posts..
As much as it may hurt (your friendship/relationship/whatever), you need to have a belayer that understands what is going on, and how to adjust to what you are doing on the sharp end of the rope.
If he/she doesn't get it, then you need to tell them you are going to find someone who does.
Best of luck,
Scott
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kman
Oct 8, 2002, 5:34 AM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2001
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Find a new partner.
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acrophobic
Oct 8, 2002, 2:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 8, 2002
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yeah just look for someone else.. just tell him you don't trust him to belay you anymore becuase he dosn't pay attention.
or do the exact same thing to him and maybe he will get a taste of his own medicine.
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howitzer
Oct 8, 2002, 2:48 PM
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Registered: Mar 5, 2002
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If this is indoors, how the hell did this guy pass a lead belay test?!?! There's no way he would have in the gym I work at! I'd definatley find a new belayer. That one's not worth the trouble!
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