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Tying off in a Portaledge
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stymingersfink


Mar 5, 2007, 11:44 PM
Post #26 of 29 (784 views)
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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Re: [euroford] Tying off in a Portaledge [In reply to]
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euroford wrote:
no way would i volunteer to double up on a single ledge.

(even say if we substitute fantasy for reality and assume i'm climbing with some kind of lady wall hottie)

in fact, if i was to solo, i'd probobly still just take the double along for the extra room to stretch out.
seconded. soloing i would take the double as well. the single only comes out for parties of three when the partners don't own a ledge.


Partner holdplease2


Mar 6, 2007, 12:25 AM
Post #27 of 29 (777 views)
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Re: [blankslate] Tying off in a Portaledge [In reply to]
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Blankslate:

Lay out the dimentions of the BD double ledge before you buy it. Its like 8-10 inches wider than the metolius double bombshelter, which is not easy to assemble solo.

Lay out some rope that mimicks the dimentions and imagine trying to set it up.

My prediction: You would rather shoot yourself in the face than assemble and cope with the BD double on a solo wall.

The old ledges in double size or the FISH doubles are managable for a soloist. The Metolius double bombshelter is pushing it, the BD would be nearly ridiculous. :)

-Kate.


yetanotherdave


Mar 6, 2007, 1:01 AM
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Re: [holdplease2] Tying off in a Portaledge [In reply to]
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holdplease2 wrote:
... The Metolius double bombshelter is pushing it...

If you're like 6'4" then maybe the BD double would be manageable - I don't have much of a problem setting up my double bombshelter solo, but I'm a bit taller than Kate. If it was even two inches wider I'd have way more trouble setting it up without help.


Partner holdplease2


Mar 6, 2007, 5:37 PM
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Re: [yetanotherdave] Tying off in a Portaledge [In reply to]
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One final comment on a soloist climbing with a double...

Keep in mind that the portaledge is like a sail and the climber(s) is (are) the ballast.

You may be trying to set up a mammoth ledge in the wind (like, its going to storm or you are in a high-wind area) or trying to ride out a storm in the ledge. In this case, the gigantic double ledge will work against you.

As ledges have grown significantly since the old-style A5s and Fish ledges, adding up to a foot of width and at least six inches to length, I'd recommend anyone lay out the dimentions of their planned purchase on the floor.

As a soloist, one of the most stressful parts of the day is wondering if your bivy setup is going to be smooth. The BD double ledge includes 8 poles (four side poles, two end poles, and two for the spreader bar and 10 straps (6 on the frame, 1 on the spreader bar, 3 on the three "fins".)

I set up the Metolius Double Bombshelter roughly 30 times solo. When I finally got my single ledge (now a BD single, awesome ledge, review coming soon), I never climbed with it again.

-Kate.

(Edited to specify "Double" Bombshelter)


(This post was edited by holdplease2 on Mar 6, 2007, 5:40 PM)

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