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dynov7
Sep 18, 2002, 9:30 PM
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On my way to becomming a better setter i decided to research a little bit, and what better way to do this than ask members on the board? I have already been to the ABS page and read Scott Rennak's writeup "Setting Beta" which was a good source of information for anyone interested. Setters, give me your best tips and tricks on sequences etc. Climbers, describe your most memorable moves and routes. Let me know your choice holds and all. All information is greatly appreciated!
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dustinap
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Sep 18, 2002, 9:51 PM
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Most memorable:
Lots of layback moves traversing on a roof with heel hooks.
A campus traverse that went under a roof, very fun.
A roof with a campus clip{large jug}
A less then verticle route with very little holds that required using the arete on the left.
Toe hooks on lead routes.
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dynov7
Sep 19, 2002, 6:59 PM
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BUMP
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climbincajun
Sep 19, 2002, 7:04 PM
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what is this ABS page you refer to?
how bout a link? im curious. thanks
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dynov7
Sep 19, 2002, 7:12 PM
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http://www.rockcomps.com/beta/setters/index.htm << this provides some good info on setting etc.
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mikedano
Sep 19, 2002, 7:39 PM
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Probably my favorite thing about Paradise gym here in CO is that they have one route per rope. For a color blind guy like me, it royaly blows to try to pick out the route you're on with all kinds of different color tape around you...
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micronut
Sep 20, 2002, 3:49 PM
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Being 6'4", I hate scruntchy moves set by dwarfs, especially sit starts!! Don't make the sit start the crux! Also, I hate routes that have right, left, right, left, type sequences. I like to match and shift around a bit.
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brianthew
Sep 20, 2002, 4:30 PM
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I'm annoyed by routes that require a special physical attribute (tall, short, tiny fingers, long fingers, the ability to do the splits, etc). I'm a average guy of average height (well, slightly shorter) with average limb proportions. Not that I mind such specialized routes being set (you gotta let those people have thier fun) but when I see one of those routes at a comp it kinda makes me bitter, unless its offset by an opposing route (for every "tall" route there is a "short" and "average" route of equal point value)
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mikedano
Sep 20, 2002, 4:48 PM
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One other thing I think is dumb: Open feet. If it's open feet, it should be open hands too!
Perhaps I just don't get bouldering...
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hawk233
Sep 20, 2002, 5:33 PM
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I like routes that have liebacking.
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mcsosar3456
Sep 21, 2002, 7:29 PM
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i like committing moves off the deck where if you dont stick it then you are coming off. there are good climbers and then climbers that feel confident dynoing at 40ft. i like interesting moves that arent hard, but just beta/sequence specific.
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pbjosh
Sep 21, 2002, 8:43 PM
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I dislike left-right-left-right routes. All routes should be tracking. I like routes with sucker holds and extra stuff and multiple ways to do it - much more like the real deal.
On lead routes of moderate to higher difficulty (say starting at 10+) I think it's great when there are dicey clips or hard moves just before a clip - again more realistic.
I also don't like suitcase handle holds - never seen one in my life on the real rock. Huge jugs and huge pockets yes.
Also too bad there aren't more finger jam type holds...
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dynov7
Sep 26, 2002, 1:42 AM
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Everyone thanks for the info. and KEEP IT COMING! Micronut and mikedano, in order to go for a more outdoorsey feel to a route some setters make scrunchy moves or sit starts etc. (Nature does what it does, some moves may be too reachy for someone shorter) This should only be done for a limited amount of routes though. If it is done all over the gym there is a problem. The routes are there for everyone and the setter should keep this in mind. Personally i like sit starts, but thenagain I'm only 5'9.
Advice to anyone: Your setters are there to set for YOU. Let them know if you dont like something. They will definately keep it in mind for the future. On the other hand they can never please everyone so dont get mad if they don't take your advice.
keep the opinions and advice coming!
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john1987
Oct 16, 2002, 11:25 PM
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micronut- whats wrong with making a sit start the crux? I think it's fun im no dwarf but im not real tall either.
John
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xcel360
Oct 16, 2002, 11:42 PM
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Make routes that force people to really have to read it well, ya know with like bomber holds and such, or serious directional changes. I think that reading a route is seriously overlooked by a lot of climbers at my gym.
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petsfed
Oct 16, 2002, 11:45 PM
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I love open feet boulder problems. Not because they're easier or harder, but they tell you quite a bit about the moves in a problem. Being that the Sherman V-scale hasn't caught on at the University gym, when it says "Easy open feet" its probably got less than stellar hands, but you can do anything with the feet. Or its just stupid easy. I've really learned to avoid what they call "Hard" when its open feet however. You need to be frickin' spider man to do those.
*Bows reverently to all of the spider-persons who frequent this forum*
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jamison
Oct 17, 2002, 7:26 PM
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I agree with most everything up there, but am not too thrilled with "beta specific" moves. Maybe for 5.12s and greater that makes sense, but it seems that in nature, there is always two ways to do it.
My biggest gripe though is crux starts. I don't mean the first move is the crux, I mean when just getting on the damn wall is difficult. Most of those really difficult starting positions are easily avoidable in the gym by just reaching for the second hold. And I don't mean 8' up either, If I the first "move" is easily reached by someone who is 5'-4", then why the heck are we wasting are time.
I like reality. If I want to try unreal moves to gain strength or whatever, I will boulder.
[ This Message was edited by: jamison on 2002-10-17 12:27 ]
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midwestslacker
Oct 17, 2002, 7:46 PM
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Slopers on a slab wall are really fun. Just set a lot of variety. Matches, crossovers, hooks, laybacks, whatever just mix it up and have fun.
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