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healyje
Oct 1, 2005, 8:31 AM
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Pretty much anyone that's willing to tie into the other end of a rope with me.
I'm not really into the "hero" thing, I found climbing to be a lot like war; it's just you, the rock, a half-assed idea, and trying to persevere and come home alive - heros are created after the fact by people who need them. There are a lot of climbers I hold in high regard and respect, but remembering that they are just another human being reminds me all the more just how remarkable their achievements are (and on good days makes me aim a little higher myself).
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test
Oct 1, 2005, 12:37 PM
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Tommy Caldwell
Dean Potter
Steph Davis
Huber Brothers
Beth Rodden
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outsideguyzak
Oct 1, 2005, 3:28 PM
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salathe, steck, robbins. More recently Tommy Cauldwell and Dean Potter.
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zenyetta
Oct 1, 2005, 4:42 PM
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What about the ladies?
Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden, Laura Lee, Steff Davis, Katie Brown, Lisa Rands, etc etc.....
Maybe I am saying this because I AM a girl. But why don't men tend to look up to women as much, I am NOT saying all the time, but I didn't see many womens name on this list. I think its because men somewhere inside don't like it when a women can climb better than them.
Anyways women are inspiring to me since its a predominate man pushing envelope sport and when a women pushes it, and oh many do. It rocks!!! no pun intended :)
I look up to men to, Tommy Caldwell, Dean Potter, Tom Frost, Royal Robbin, Ron Kauk, and let us not all forget the Bird (Jim Bridwell), or John Long.
There are many climbers that inspire me, local and ones we find in climbing magazines that inspire me. Someone that is able to push themselves, keep a calm positive manner in difficult situations is all inspiring.
Its funny I spent a couple months in Camp 4. I meet some wonderful people from all over the world. Pushing the envelope...doing some crazy shit. (that place is very humbling). People that were amazing climbers that no one has heard of, and were just so cool. even respecting and interested about me a new trad leader trying to push her own envelope.
I must say this because I just have to put my two cents in. This is an old listing so no one will probably read this so I will just say it. Dan Osman was an amazing climber that is awe inspiring. Amazing climber just living life to its fullest buy pushing himself. Which is awesome. BUT he left a child behind. I think if pushing your envelope is the way you want to go, DON'T HAVE A KID!!!! Its not fare to them. All other climbers doing their thing free soloing or whatever....that is cool go for it, its amazing to me but choose that life of risk where you will die if you make a mistake and don't have a kid.
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takeme
Oct 1, 2005, 4:51 PM
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I don't like to use the word heros, but these are some folks who inspire me. I have to give the nod to some Colorado guys who haven't been mentioned but have done some amazing stuff over the last 10 years--Mike Pennings, Jonny Copp, Josh Wharton, Topher Donahue, etc.
And of course going further back: Kor, Dalke, Dunn, Wiggins, Webster, Becker, etc. etc.
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superbum
Oct 1, 2005, 5:54 PM
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JIM DONINI
PETER CROFT
DEREK HERSEY
EARL WIGGINS
SONNIE TROTTER
DALE BARD
And all the people I've climbed with who gladly took the lead on natural lines when I was scared. Thanks all!
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dredsovrn
Oct 1, 2005, 10:19 PM
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I don't know any famous climbers, and I guess I don't really care to. My hero or trad is my climbing partner (rokshoxbkr19 on this site. He went for a lead on Silly Dickin (5.12) in the Gunks because I said I thought he could do it. He went for it. After on fall on a number 4 nut (this climb is thin) a spark shot out of where the nut was placed. He kept climbing. Then he jammed a #3 Zero in just as he was about to whip, and only got two cam lobes in. If you ever seen this piece of gear, it looks questionable when placed correctly. When he fell it whipped out and hit him in the head. After more climbing and finding he couldn't reach the last hold, he down aided the whole route and cleaned all the gear. Just one of many examples of his freakish trad ability, and stong lead head. He's my trad hero.
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cbreeze
Oct 1, 2005, 10:38 PM
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Glad to see HB Matheson got a mention, he is the only trad legend down under imo.
BUT
4 pages and not one mention of Leo Houlding ? I dont understand that one.
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asandh
Oct 1, 2005, 11:31 PM
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A lot of names have been thrown in to this thread, but are they really heroes ? Just being a great climber doesn't make someone a hero, nor does doing something first necessarily qualify you.
There are a number of climbers whose accomplishments I admire, but they're not my heroes.
Though he's not "yet" a climber, Kyle Maynard is a hero. :)
http://www.usatoday.com/...cover-wrestler_x.htm
Have you really thought about your personal definition :?:
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rufusandcompany
Oct 2, 2005, 12:34 AM
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In reply to: Here's a few more (slighlty) obscure heroes of mine, in no particular order... Jimmy Dunn for an amazing catalog of first ascents, coast to coast, including some of the finest routes in the country. Bernd Arnold- Unsung East German badass. 5.12, barefoot, with knotted cord and webbing for pro....in the 70s. 'Nuff Said. Henry Barber- Arguably the finest climber of his generation, with impeccable ethics. Raised the standards where ever he went. John Turner- His 5.9s and 10s are STILL hard, and still classic. What an eye for a line! And, like Barber, impeccable ethics and style. Fritz Weisner- If you climb in the north east, or on K2 for that matter, Fritz is probably one of your heros. If he isn't, he should be. -Nubbler
Calling Jimmy Dunn and Henry Barber obscure is a funny statament. They are two of the most famous pioneers in US free climbing history.
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afiveonbelay
Oct 2, 2005, 2:46 AM
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There's hope yet, as some people knew who Chuck Pratt was.
In these glory hounding days of self-aggrandizement, here was a guy who was just about the climb, nothing more, nothing less.
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rockprodigy
Oct 3, 2005, 11:22 PM
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I concur that this is all pretty pointless without being certain what "trad" is, but it's all pointless anyway, right?
In reply to: Interesting list rockprodigy. I too respect all those you mention; however, for trad climbing? Alan Watts should be credited for bringing sport to Smith and at the time, it received tons of publicity so for a historical perspective he deserves huge credit. This was from about 83-87 and beyond. But those were critical years for the sport evolution.
When you consider that Alan nearly redpointed (placing all gear on lead) the East Face of the Monkey at 13c/d in 1985, I would say he was a trad climber first. He only resorted to what we now call "pinkpointing" when Heinz Zak, of all people talked him into doing that way because that's how all the hardest routes in Europe were being done. Alan Watts climbed tons of super hard cracks before he even thought about sport climbing.
My intention was only to highlight some people that probably would not otherwise make it onto this all-important list.
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gullwing19
Oct 3, 2005, 11:52 PM
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I had the pleasure this weekend to catch a belay from Fred Becky up 3 pitches of Little Cottonwood Canyon granite. Regardless of his age and mobility the man looked solid roped up. He also likes to talk which was an added treat.
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worldonastrng
Mar 29, 2007, 12:08 AM
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Whoever thought it was necessary to bolt the entire Boulder Canyon. Dude's got some serious huevos. 
Edited to add:
In reply to the original post - I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics.
(This post was edited by worldonastrng on Mar 29, 2007, 12:44 AM)
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abtisme
Mar 29, 2007, 1:00 AM
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worldonastrng wrote: Whoever thought it was necessary to bolt the entire Boulder Canyon. Dude's got some serious huevos. Edited to add: In reply to the original post - I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics.
you do know this thread is over a year and a half old, right? and i don't care if potter climbed delicate arch. i don't agree with the pictures/publicity, but i don't think he did any more damage to it than all of us do to the rest of the world by driving our cars, not recycling, etc.
-aaron
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rhythm164
Mar 29, 2007, 1:04 AM
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Barber, Chouinard, Frost, Skinner, Potter, Caldwell, Harding (hello!), Robbins, Kamps, Kor...just to name a few
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boymeetsrock
Mar 29, 2007, 1:22 AM
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I admired Sue Knott and Karen McNeill for thier alpine achievemens. True hard women.
Mick Fowler too.
But Sue and Karen should have been mentioned a couple of years ago.
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worldonastrng
Mar 29, 2007, 2:37 AM
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My apologies for missing the date of the thread.
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flamer
Mar 29, 2007, 4:16 AM
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worldonastrng wrote: My apologies for missing the date of the thread.
Maybe you should apologise for dissing a man(even if you did it indirectly) who has done more for climbing than you probably ever will??
josh
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medicus
Mar 29, 2007, 5:07 AM
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flamer wrote: worldonastrng wrote: My apologies for missing the date of the thread. Maybe you should apologise for dissing a man(even if you did it indirectly) who has done more for climbing than you probably ever will?? josh
I was slightly offended at the comment he presented before also, but I just chose to ignore it, but I'm glad you said something.
Edit: In fact I think I'll add...
worldonastrng wrote: I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics.
I don't think there are very many people that consider Dean Potter a hero because of his ethics, I think it pertains to what he has done for climbing. He may have done some things that may or may not have been unethical, but I doubt anyone is going to say "Dean Potter is my hero because of his ethics!" I think it more pertains to his climbing.
(This post was edited by medicus on Mar 29, 2007, 5:12 AM)
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hugepedro
Mar 29, 2007, 6:23 AM
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You call yourselves trad climbers? Only 1 mention of Fred Beckey, and not until 3 pages into the thread?
No wonder I hardly come to this site anymore. Buncha effin posuer punks.
The man has more FA's probably than anybody has or ever will, and he's still putting them up in his '80's. He's the original alpinist.
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worldonastrng
Mar 29, 2007, 7:17 AM
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In reply to: I don't think there are very many people that consider Dean Potter a hero because of his ethics, I think it pertains to what he has done for climbing. He may have done some things that may or may not have been unethical, but I doubt anyone is going to say "Dean Potter is my hero because of his ethics!" I think it more pertains to his climbing.
Check the first thread.
In reply to: My self I look up to , Tommy Cadwell, Dean Potter, Ron Kaulk, Layton Kor, Dan Osmand and Dereck Hersey. Not only do these people climb with good ethics,...
Hey, I still watch Dean's videos. And when taken on my first tour of J'tree, my mentor showed me the place in Echo Rock area he soloed, and my jaw dropped and I was silent for quite some time. I have mad respect for his SKILLS and how he has pushed boundaries for the climbing community . However, his ETHICS are a concern for me.
Now, back to the original thread.
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medicus
Mar 29, 2007, 7:27 AM
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Okay, I'll buy that.
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flamer
Mar 29, 2007, 6:30 PM
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medicus wrote: flamer wrote: worldonastrng wrote: My apologies for missing the date of the thread. Maybe you should apologise for dissing a man(even if you did it indirectly) who has done more for climbing than you probably ever will?? josh I was slightly offended at the comment he presented before also, but I just chose to ignore it, but I'm glad you said something. Edit: In fact I think I'll add... worldonastrng wrote: I question your integrity if you can honestly say that Dean Potter is a hero of yours because of his ethics. I don't think there are very many people that consider Dean Potter a hero because of his ethics, I think it pertains to what he has done for climbing. He may have done some things that may or may not have been unethical, but I doubt anyone is going to say "Dean Potter is my hero because of his ethics!" I think it more pertains to his climbing.
...I was actually refering to the comment about "bolting boulder canyon".
Bob De Antonio is one hell of a climber and had put up thousands of routes...sport and trad.
Dean Potter is an egotistical knucklehead.
josh
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