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benmoreite
Apr 2, 2007, 10:59 PM
Post #18826 of 22774
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After some poking around at work I finally managed to get the weekend off so I can head up to NoCo on the 20th. I think that both Janine and I will be able to come up anytime after 5ish on Friday. When are folks heading up? Gabe, I'm sending you a PM, I'm hoping that there is still space for 2 in the cabin.
I can't wait!!
Janine and I were over at QQ this weekend and there were quite a few folks out on saturday. I did my first lead on the right facing corner/overhang between Albatross and Starlight on C-wall. After that we climbed something on G-wall, and a (I think unnamed) right facing corner/crack on F-wall, near Long Face and Double traverse, that I want to go back and lead soon.
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core
Apr 3, 2007, 12:41 AM
Post #18827 of 22774
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hmmmm, I think I figured it out. Something feels different about the last move, that's for sure. Maybe it's just awkward. (especially compared to the rest of the moves)
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Gmburns2000
Apr 3, 2007, 1:14 AM
Post #18828 of 22774
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benmoreite wrote: After some poking around at work I finally managed to get the weekend off so I can head up to NoCo on the 20th. I think that both Janine and I will be able to come up anytime after 5ish on Friday. When are folks heading up? Gabe, I'm sending you a PM, I'm hoping that there is still space for 2 in the cabin. I can't wait!! Janine and I were over at QQ this weekend and there were quite a few folks out on saturday. I did my first lead on the right facing corner/overhang between Albatross and Starlight on C-wall. After that we climbed something on G-wall, and a (I think unnamed) right facing corner/crack on F-wall, near Long Face and Double traverse, that I want to go back and lead soon.
Hey,
Was that you trying to rap down on top of a group of people asking about which wall was which at the end of the day? If so, nice to put a name / dialogue to a face. I'll shake your hand later.
It was a great day at QQ. Better than I could have imagined. I was pretty psyched to nail everything I climbed too. I wasn't expected that on the first day. Here's hoping the momentum keeps going.
GO - I think I asked you to save me a spot, but I just wanted to double check. I think I'll be up there the Friday night and through Sat anyway.
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skierbrian
Apr 3, 2007, 3:06 AM
Post #18829 of 22774
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Registered: Jun 24, 2006
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Hi,
I'm interested in joining you all if the trip is still open. I would be driving up the 21st and returning home on the 21st. I would also be climbing with the lower level group.
Looking forward to it.
Also, I climbed at Redemption Crag this weekend and had the place to myself. Anyone interested in CH give me a shout. I live 5 minutes away.
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robbovius
Apr 3, 2007, 12:19 PM
Post #18830 of 22774
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wow! the 4/20-22 NoCo raid is really turning into a potty! I'm mean PARTY. ;-)
I'm going to try and bail out after work on the 20th and get up there as soon as I can.
Gabe, already PMed, dirs? ;-)
brian welcome to the madhouse
(This post was edited by robbovius on Apr 3, 2007, 12:20 PM)
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als14
Apr 3, 2007, 1:01 PM
Post #18831 of 22774
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Registered: Apr 2, 2007
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Hi, i am new to this site and looking to meet up with some new people and do some climbing outside. I can lead about 5.8 on sport, and can tr about 10b. I haven't gotten into trad yet but I definitely want to. Anyone got something planned and mind if I join?
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cracklover
Apr 3, 2007, 3:05 PM
Post #18832 of 22774
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Olderic, Lucander, and Cory: My take on that move on Arrow is that it really is 5.8. I honestly and truly believe it. But I've done the climb nearly a half dozen times, and only once (my first time on it) did I find a 5.8 way to get through. Every other time I've been forced to pull a move that felt solid 5.9+.
Yes, I firmly agree that it's the best belay station in the Gunks.
In regards to the NoCo raid coming up: I've gotten PMs from a few people, and will send directions out to them within a day or so. If you're planning on coming, and haven't PMed me yet, please do so! I will *not* be posting the directions in a public forum, and will ask anyone who does to take them down.
Look forward to seeing y'all soon.
Edited to say: If you were planning to call me at the last minute, don't. I'm forced to get rid of my current phone, so you won't be able to reach me. I'll email out my new number when I get it, but that may not be for a little while yet.
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Apr 3, 2007, 5:41 PM)
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cracklover
Apr 3, 2007, 5:39 PM
Post #18833 of 22774
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Be on the lookout! This guy was caught on video while in the middle of an alleged robbery of a local convenience store.
He may be in our midst - it's rumored that he's posing as a climber...
GO
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robbovius
Apr 3, 2007, 5:45 PM
Post #18834 of 22774
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cracklover wrote: Be on the lookout! This guy was caught on video while in the middle of an alleged robbery of a local convenience store. He may be in our midst - it's rumored that he's posing as a climber... GO
oh sweet, another F-ing climbing poser ;-)
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acherry
Apr 3, 2007, 5:49 PM
Post #18835 of 22774
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cracklover wrote: Be on the lookout! This guy was caught on video while in the middle of an alleged robbery of a local convenience store. [IMG]http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c150/gostriker/moustach.jpg[/IMG] He may be in our midst - it's rumored that he's posing as a climber... GO
in case anyone was wondering... yes that is blue steel
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jakedatc
Apr 3, 2007, 7:56 PM
Post #18836 of 22774
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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ONE LOOK!!...ONE LOOK!!
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cracklover
Apr 3, 2007, 8:25 PM
Post #18837 of 22774
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Hmm...
Is our perp:
related to
Blue Steel: 
or is he the scary little brother of
this friendly redneck: 
You decide.
GO
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notch
Apr 4, 2007, 12:33 AM
Post #18838 of 22774
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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The previous 3 posts further my belief that the MCT is the only thread necessary on RC.com. No go on NOCO for me, my wife is due 3 days later and it probably wouldn't be cool to be half way up Whitehorse when she goes into labor. Counting down to a rain free Rumney Ruckus though.
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orangekyak
Apr 4, 2007, 2:01 AM
Post #18839 of 22774
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Cory, I already told you what I thought, but for the sake of being a tough guy, publicly, I must say that arrow's finish is not harder than five.eight.
I'm doing a lot of coaching these days. Then I'm climbing Sundays in May. Then I'm climbing weekends in June. Mark 'em.
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robbovius
Apr 4, 2007, 11:59 AM
Post #18840 of 22774
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Pulled thru a "72" on the home wall for the first time last night. this morning I weighed 195, down from 201-202 a month ago. are the two connected in some way? we'll see where that goes.
carry on.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Apr 4, 2007, 11:59 AM)
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core
Apr 4, 2007, 12:44 PM
Post #18841 of 22774
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fair enough. I may just be confusing awkwardness with difficulty.
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jakedatc
Apr 5, 2007, 5:46 AM
Post #18842 of 22774
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see cory.. you're at the gunks.. save the smeary delicate crap for Conway.. at the gunks go get on a big freaking jughaul roof that still somehow goes at 5.7
Rob.. fyi.. kate and i might be at RIRG saturday if you and shane want to do something taller than 7 feet
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TBlake84
Apr 5, 2007, 2:30 PM
Post #18843 of 22774
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Registered: Jan 10, 2007
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So guys, I was at Quincy Quarry this past weekend and I was setting a TR anchor on Savage Wall for Savage Direct. Anyways, this random older looking guy came up to me and started hassling me about my anchor while I was setting it up. He brought it upon himself to tell me what he would do differently (not use dyneema slings even though they're totally safe, not use bent gate biners on the bolts, etc.) He just gave me a bad impression.
I am totally confident in my anchor building capabilites but still, it pissed me off and put a little doubt in my head. Not to mention ruin a little bit of my day. How do you guys deal with this stuff? Do you be a jerk and tell him to piss off or do you put up with it and talk shit about him after he leaves? Thanks and sorry about the long post, I needed to vent a little bit - it's been bugging me all week.
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robbovius
Apr 5, 2007, 2:36 PM
Post #18844 of 22774
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dude, that sucks. sorry you had to deal with it.
in that situation, I ordinarily ignore the knucklehead and they eventualy get the clue and wander off. or, I'll make shit up about the anchor saying stuff that patently false, until they get the clue that I'm mocking them and wander off.
jake, the deathscort is insisting that I sacrifice some repair time to it this weekend.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Apr 5, 2007, 2:37 PM)
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jakedatc
Apr 5, 2007, 4:48 PM
Post #18845 of 22774
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i dunno rob.. bent gate biners and dyneema over an edge isnt exactly ideal.. no probably not a death trap but depending on what kinda moving around the anchor was going to be doing (like our 1 rope for 3 lines at CR type set up) Personally since QQ's bolts are set back from the edge.. i'd go with lockers on those and a cordalette or at least wider nylon to go over the edge to a double locker powerpoint. conversely, at rumney on bolts that are on the face.. it's 2 draws of any type opposed.. no worries.
QQ tends to be noob central with people putting up some manktastic anchors and NOT knowing it.. I bet if you had explained to the guy.. yea i know this isn't the best set up but it's the gear i have at the moment.. i bet he'd leave you alone. He's just trying to prevent himself from having a really bad day by having to carry your ass out.
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TBlake84
Apr 5, 2007, 4:54 PM
Post #18846 of 22774
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Registered: Jan 10, 2007
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I guess I can understand his worry. I just would have gone about it another way. He was being condescending about it.
Don't worry about it, I just wanted to bitch.
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olderic
Apr 5, 2007, 5:09 PM
Post #18847 of 22774
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TBlake84 wrote: He brought it upon himself to tell me what he would do differently (not use dyneema slings even though they're totally safe, not use bent gate biners on the bolts, etc.)
You'd have more credibility and get more sympathy if you gave examples of things that he was not correct about.
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TBlake84
Apr 5, 2007, 5:35 PM
Post #18848 of 22774
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I'm totally kicking a dead horse but just to answer your question.... I'm not saying he was wrong, he was making suggestions on things that also would have worked.
I had a cordelette that wasn't long enough to extend over the edge so I used two alpine quickdraws (the ones you can extend) to extend the cordelette over the edge. It went Bolt>two bent gate biners (Opposite and Opposed)>dyneema sling>locker biner>cordelette>power point with two lockers. I did that for both bolts. I know it's kind of elaborate but it's totally safe.
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wideguy
Apr 5, 2007, 6:04 PM
Post #18849 of 22774
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Tblake, your first post reads MUCH different than your second. Conventional wisdom says no bent gates on bolts. Doubled, O&O is a whole different story than one alone on a hanger, however. Using Dyneema to essentially extend the bolt so your cordalette reaches the edge is very different the the Dyneema actually taking the sharp edge of the rock and wearing on that edge as your powerpoint moves around.
As you describe it second, I'd have no problem with your anchor either. Others might disagree. My only opinion is that cordalette and dyneema are way more expensive than tubular webbing. Why make your alpine gear take stupid TR abuse at the quarries?
Otherwise, I try to deal with all unsolicited advice the same. I take it under advisement, reevaluate my choices and decisions, and if I still think I have it right and have no new compelling evidence to change my mind, then I disregard it.
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olderic
Apr 5, 2007, 6:20 PM
Post #18850 of 22774
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Clipping two biners into a single hanger is sketchy - can result in some weird forces. dyneema out of the box (or whatever) is plenty strong but it won't stand up to the abuse that nylon will. What he did was undoubtably safe enough (how much over kill in the anchor do you need when the accident is going to be caused by belayer cockpit error?) I've set up and used worse. What is slightly annoying is his refusal to acknowlege any shortcomings. What is really really annoying is his use of "alpine draw". No such thing. It's a sling, S-L-I-N-G. Maybe doubled or tripled. "Alpine draw" is one of those terms that have been invented by the nOObs in the last few years that have to relate everything to their sport bubble. Better that draws be called "sport slings".
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