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Weapon of Choice - Preferable Belay Device
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metoliusmunchkin


Aug 29, 2002, 3:29 PM
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I have just recently begun using the Trango Jaws more often as I usually do, and find it equivalently as comforting as the "flawless" GriGri. Still, I must stand by my previous statement, in cohering that using a GriGri is safer than an ATC (or it's predecessor, the Trango Jaws).


Partner drector


Aug 29, 2002, 5:43 PM
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I hate being late to an interesting thread... My climbing partner took a date out climbing and she pulled on the Grigri lever until he hit the ground. Only 15 feet and it still slowed him a little. It does have it's drawbacks.

I use a Jaws. I have an ATC but it doesn't grab enough on my 10.2 dry rope. The jaws is smooth and can be reveresed for different conditions.

I have tried the Grigri as a solo device but ONLY for solo top-roping. Never on lead.

I'm waiting for Gary at Vertical Devices (http://storrick.cnchost.com/VerticalDevicesPage/VerticalHome.shtml) to do a review of the B-52. It looks interesting.


wiegs


Aug 29, 2002, 6:02 PM
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I just got my B-52 in the mail yesterday. Quite a neat device. Haven't had much chance to use it, but it looks to be the device that'll beat out my ATC for my primary belay device. It's really pretty nice. I intend to take it out this weekend to Devil's Lake, so if anyone wants my opinion after more extensive tests, just PM me, and I'll have em for ya


kevlar


Aug 29, 2002, 11:22 PM
Post #79 of 94 (6412 views)
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I like to climb...an all this chatter...is making me dizzzzzzzzzzy....

I am off to the rocks...


minnesotatrad


Aug 29, 2002, 11:38 PM
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I prefer ATC. It pays out rope easily and it is great for catching big leader falls.


metoliusmunchkin


Aug 30, 2002, 6:03 PM
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John, don't forget the belay device!


iridesantacruz


Aug 31, 2002, 12:22 AM
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i like the atc, its what i learned on too, its so easy. I dont normally trust some mechanical belaying devices either. though whem coming down.. figure 8.... keep it simple.

chris


rockmongrel


Aug 31, 2002, 1:20 AM
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has anyone used the wild country src?


jt512


Aug 31, 2002, 2:11 AM
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Quote:My climbing partner took a date out climbing and she pulled on the Grigri lever until he hit the ground. Only 15 feet and it still slowed him a little. It does have it's drawbacks.

That's not a drawback of the gri-gri; it's user error. If the belayer were using an ATC and the belayer let go with the brake hand and dropped the climber, would you say it's the device's fault?

-Jay



metoliusmunchkin


Sep 15, 2002, 6:13 AM
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Jay, you're right on.


djnibs


Sep 15, 2002, 11:40 PM
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SBG II all the way. i love it.


moun10man


Sep 23, 2002, 3:10 AM
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The ATC is the only belay device that I have used. It works great, stops a fall fast and without a lot of effort, I'm comfortable using it in belay applications. If it ain't broke don't fix it!


billcoe_


Sep 23, 2002, 6:48 PM
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B-52 is a POS. Don't get one IMO and theres lots of reasons.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=15966&forum=40

Get an ATC or probably better, the DMM Bug. http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=16508&forum=40

I'd pass on the Reverso too.


My opinion:

Bill




jamison


Sep 23, 2002, 7:37 PM
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A response to the intro post, jt512 and metoliusmunchkin...

I have not used a grigri, but I am of the opinion that any "autolocking" device should only be used by "experienced" climbers. belayers need to be taught that they are the most important link in the safety chain.

Grigris and similar devices might have a tendency to promote lax attitudes.

Maybe OK for some, not for me.

[ This Message was edited by: jamison on 2002-09-23 12:38 ]


massbayclimber


Sep 23, 2002, 8:58 PM
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I agree Jamison. The Gri-Gri is a much easier way to belay, but for the beginner climbers and belayers it should be ATC. Someone correct me if I am wrong but for a Gri-Gri, if the rope is put in backwards (i.e. the rope goes through the wrong part and out the wrong end) it will not work to catch the climber.


Partner drector


Sep 23, 2002, 9:14 PM
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jt512,

RE: Friends date drops him.

I'm sorry you didn't understand that one statement I made aboput the gri gri: "it has it's drawbacks." You must have interpreted this as "the gri gri is flawed" instead of what I meant which was "The gri gri is not foolproof and does not keep a beginner from making a mistake and killing someone."

I posted the story as information to others thinking that the gri gri is foolproof. It is not. I agree that the girl made a mistake but accept that the gri gri didn't stop her from doing it. I do not feel the gri gri is better or worse for beginners.

Dave

[ This Message was edited by: drector on 2002-09-23 14:17 ]

[ This Message was edited by: drector on 2002-09-23 14:41 ]


goingtohellquick


Jan 3, 2003, 10:23 PM
Post #92 of 94 (6412 views)
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The gri gri is the best (and it shows you how to set it up on the side). Well, if you have no expierence climbing with it you should climb with one at a gym to get the feel for it. The work will pay off


arrrghjp


Jan 3, 2003, 10:42 PM
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Just got an Omega SBGII for Xmas, and really like it a lot. Very, very smooth rope feed, can be set up for three different resistance configurations, and the price was under $20. Only problem, the stem is thick so I have to put my locking Jake backwards so the wide end is up...minor inconvenience.
Josh


easysteve


Jan 3, 2003, 10:59 PM
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ATC, I've never even fooled with a gri gri, but I'm sure I'll get my hands on that soon, and make it my new belay device of choice.

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