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kgheslep
Apr 23, 2007, 10:34 PM
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i don't know what is going on with all of my shoes, i have evolv defy's and they are only about 3 months old and today i blew a decent little hole in the toe, now this is rather regular for me. help. i'm sure there is something i can do to help keep them whole, i clean them with water and a toothbrush after EVERY time i climb. is this a technique issue? i clean them on my crash pad carpet EVERY time before i climb whether it be bouldering or on the wall. ANY help would be greatly appreciated, i'm out of ideas. thank you all and safe climbing.
kenny
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bent_gate
Apr 23, 2007, 10:43 PM
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My shoes need to be resoled, especially in the big toe, every three months from normal wear. Even with good technique certain gym surfaces wear them faster. Even when you place perfect feet, good turning technique will grind them against the wall. So it seems normal to me, though I don't know how much your are climbing.
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angry
Apr 23, 2007, 10:44 PM
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I go through shoes fast. The only thing that I've noticed that will prolong the life of shoes is to either not climb or climb easy stuff.
God I wish I got 3 months out of shoes.
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kgheslep
Apr 23, 2007, 10:53 PM
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wow, thank you for the quick reply, i climb at least twice a week, usually about three, but i always try for more, it is good to know though that i'm not some sort of weirdo (at least in this case) who is going through shoes too quickly, lol, just tell my girlfriend that so she ok's the resoling lol, thank you agian
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angry
Apr 23, 2007, 10:58 PM
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It's best to teach your woman a trade. That way, if your career as a pro climber doesn't pan out, you can fall back on her. My suggestion would be to teach her to resole your shoes for you. It's a win win situation.
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bent_gate
Apr 23, 2007, 11:08 PM
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And on a personal note, from one experienced guy to another: Keep an eye on your girlfriend's shoes. If they wear out faster than yours, then she may be climbing behind your back. 
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kgheslep
Apr 23, 2007, 11:25 PM
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lol, that would be a great win win situation. and about her shoes wearing, i'll have to be extra vigilant since she alternates between two pairs of shoes :), no pun intended, just shoes i think
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svilnit
Apr 25, 2007, 3:25 PM
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blitzkrieg_climber13 wrote: ^^^WHIPPED^^^^
That's an understatement!!! Lord help your soul if you ever get into Trad climbing and you are still with that girl!
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kgheslep
Apr 29, 2007, 10:57 PM
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lol, it is ok, she is into horse stuff, which is expensive as hell, so she really has no room to complain
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musicman1586
Apr 29, 2007, 11:26 PM
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kgheslep wrote: i don't know what is going on with all of my shoes, i have evolv defy's and they are only about 3 months old and today i blew a decent little hole in the toe, now this is rather regular for me. help. i'm sure there is something i can do to help keep them whole, i clean them with water and a toothbrush after EVERY time i climb. is this a technique issue? i clean them on my crash pad carpet EVERY time before i climb whether it be bouldering or on the wall. ANY help would be greatly appreciated, i'm out of ideas. thank you all and safe climbing. kenny
3 months? There's a few things I could say, one is likely bad technique, another might be too small of shoes, which is fairly common these days. I work in a climbing gym 5 days a week and then climb on really sharp granite in the weekends (when school doesn't have a strangle hold on my social life) and my shoes have lasted 8 months already on this current resole and likely won't need one for another couple months. Most people that I've met that have good technique have shoes that last them close to a year, most power climbers (who often just smear and go), beginners, and people with bad technique that I've met get at most 6 months out of shoes. So I'd say watch your technique carefully.
Edit to add: Another thing that may be wrong is the shoe may not fit you well, if you have some give or some flop anywhere in the shoe it would likely lead to more wearing on the shoe when you use it, that may be something to consider as well, may not be a good shoe for your foot.
(This post was edited by musicman1586 on Apr 29, 2007, 11:37 PM)
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zuegma
Apr 30, 2007, 12:47 AM
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i honestly dont think that you need to clean your shoes that much, its a little excessive. i only clean mine if they start slipping on a climb and even then its usually a little water and a rub with my shirt, nothing much. so if your cleaning them after everyclimb they are going to wear faster than if you only clean them when they need it.
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ltking
Apr 30, 2007, 5:45 PM
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don't drag your toes, its that simple
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keithlester
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Apr 30, 2007, 6:56 PM
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Climb LESS, Spray MORE
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07mpshei
May 1, 2007, 3:24 AM
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Two of my friends are wearing holes in the toes of their defy's as well. if technique's not an issue, could be bad shoes. (get some 5.10's)
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whoa
May 1, 2007, 4:52 AM
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The sure bet to stop excessive shoe wear is a good injury.
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Pdizz
May 1, 2007, 5:14 AM
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try not walking around in them alot
just wear them when you climb
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rc_vinay
May 1, 2007, 5:54 AM
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looks like u have evolv bandit not defy's. any ways evolv shouse have very soft rubber and they have reputation to tear a part on ferrocement climbing walls and hard rock. i herd people complain that their foot sleeps under shouse every time they take friction on plain surface. the way u use your shouse is not it ment for. each time u wash shouse it shrinks and that effects on glue stiching. it becomes weak.if u want to clen them u should clen them with moist cloth or with dry cloth but naver ever use water. now u can resole them or buy newone but dont climb on that shouse u might get toe injury. 3 mounths is very short time for rockshouse anyway its evolv i dont trust it.
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kgheslep
May 2, 2007, 6:00 AM
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btw people, i only climb outside, do your shoes wear differently when you are only in the gym? i have had some replies responding with gym stuff, thank you very much for your posts, but is there different wear from gym to rock? i imagine the real deal wears more, but can i take what is heeded from the gym standpoint to be comparable to the strictly outside standpoint, regarding wear? thank you for all the posts helping me out
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overlord
May 2, 2007, 7:40 AM
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kgheslep wrote: btw people, i only climb outside, do your shoes wear differently when you are only in the gym? i have had some replies responding with gym stuff, thank you very much for your posts, but is there different wear from gym to rock? i imagine the real deal wears more, but can i take what is heeded from the gym standpoint to be comparable to the strictly outside standpoint, regarding wear? thank you for all the posts helping me out
depends on the gym and the type of rock you normally climb on. if it has textured walls it will actually wear shoes out faster than most types of rock.
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