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twelvestringtex
Jun 12, 2007, 12:59 AM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2007
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does anyone know a good way to toprope this? I couldn't find one and ended up soloing up it, and out of the cave to throw a pair of 30ft slings around an outcropping up there, and it was rather scary.
next time i'd prefer to find a safe way to manage it.
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dm
Jun 12, 2007, 5:37 AM
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Registered: May 31, 2004
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you can walk to the top of Cave crack and there are numerous opportunities to set up a top rope anchor with gear. What's wrong with leading it though? according to your climbing resume you have onsighted Fear of Flying and Becky's crack, which makes you an experienced trad leader. Then I'm not sure why you're asking your question. (Incidentally, the picture of the route you're climbing is not Grass Crack direct. It's Grass Crack. Grass crack direct goes straight up instead of following the crack and is much harder)
twelvestringtex wrote: does anyone know a good way to toprope this? I couldn't find one and ended up soloing up it, and out of the cave to throw a pair of 30ft slings around an outcropping up there, and it was rather scary. next time i'd prefer to find a safe way to manage it. |
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twelvestringtex
Jun 12, 2007, 5:54 AM
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no, i marked all of those as toprope ascents (or at least I thought I had, if i need to change something, please let me know!)
I've never done any trad, which is the problem. we did setup the toprope with a pair of 30ft slings around outcropping on the roof, but it's getting there safely that I can't figure out.
PS, thanks for the tip on Grass Crack, I had heard mention from other climbers that the easier portion was when you start the climb from the shelf about 15 or 20 foot up, i'll go change that now! (I feel embarassed about this, I don't want to over-sell myself, and would hate to claim something i've not actually done.)
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twelvestringtex
Jun 12, 2007, 6:14 AM
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I see what I did wrong on my climbing log.
If I threw a rope over the route, rappelled down, and then climbed up without weighting the rope, falling, or receiving any beta, I just marked it as an "onsight" in the "about this climb" box, and marked it as "toprope" in the "grade the route box."
i'll go fix those now.
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8flood8
Jun 12, 2007, 8:11 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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pretty much solo it or put gear in it.
no toprope for it without gear.
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dm
Jun 12, 2007, 2:12 PM
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oh, ok, so if I understand it correctly, you've set up the toprope not at the end of the route but at the spot where you come out of the cave, right? if you continue up the crack from there you will get to the point where you can easily walk off. With enough webbing, it should be possible to sling boulders there though I don't remember details. Lower off the anchor and belay from the top (not sure how long the whole route is). All this assuming that you know what you're doing. You may want to post at erockonline.com - the folks there may have better ideas.
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twelvestringtex
Jun 12, 2007, 6:36 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2007
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you hit the nail on the head. after my soloing adventure, i was a little too terrified to continue upward and just put slings lower down.
I'm well versed in using webbing and seting up toprope anchors though, thanks for the advice!
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