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bobruef
Jun 13, 2007, 8:27 PM
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I'm getting ready to head to The New this weekend, and am trying to figure out what climbs I REALLY want to hit up. So far, the only one that I'm set on is Zag (5.8)
I'm looking for stuff in the 5.7-5.9 range, especially really good 7's and 8's, especially good crack climbs. Anyone have any favorites? Any areas have more of an abundance of moderate trad routes?
Thanks,
Bob
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bent_gate
Jun 13, 2007, 8:38 PM
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It seems everyone heads to Junkyard Wall:
New Yosemite 5.9
New River Gunks 5.7
And more right in the area. (above climbs posted in the wrong sections on this site, use your guidebook to find them)
Have Fun!!!
(This post was edited by bent_gate on Jun 13, 2007, 8:45 PM)
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on_belay_hombre
Jun 13, 2007, 8:48 PM
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I second the Vote for New Yosemite. I also highly recomment Supercrack (9+) over at Beauty Mountain. I led that the weekend of the rendezvous and it was crazy, long and awesome.
My other Favorites:
Junkyard-
The Entertainer (9+ or 10)
Four Sheets to the Wind (9+)
Rico Suave-
Rico Suave Arete (10a) - sport lead
Old Days (9)
I know there are more but those are my favorites as of the last two trips ive been on down there last month.
Enjoy!!
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 13, 2007, 9:11 PM
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ENDLESS
Grafenberg Crack
Fantasy
Roy's Lament
Prowess
Fool Effect
FERN BUTTRESS
Hysteria
Ritz Cracker
S & M
BEAUTY
Supercrack
Happy Hands
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johnathon78
Jun 13, 2007, 9:36 PM
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try...umm.....these:
Supercrack: 5.9+, good gear the whole way. From shuts on supercrack, lead Photo Finish 5.9-topout and belay from tree.
Hysteria: 5.8, crux at bottom and thin gear to juggy protected face.
Two Bag Face: 5.9, one move wonder, decent gear, shuts at top, beautiful expose and views of bridge.
Your momma: 5.8, as good a splitter you'll get at the new.
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j_ung
Jun 13, 2007, 9:49 PM
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Not saying he shouldn't do it, but Two Bag Face is fairly spicy.
(Hey, have you done the direct finish? Pretty fun, only a little harder and even more spicy.)
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johnathon78
Jun 13, 2007, 10:07 PM
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oh no no I havent! Details please. Do you stay right
of the arete for the direct?
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 14, 2007, 5:23 AM
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Oh, I forgot one at Fern Buttress: Emerald Dance.
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jeremy11
Jun 15, 2007, 12:00 AM
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here's something I posted a while back in this thread:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...8;page=unread#unread
NRG moderate trad
"just plain dirty 5.4
bush battle 5.5
cowabunga 5.6
oh wait... those are the dirty gross nasty "I'll never go on that route again" ones... the crux is not always in the sheer difficulty... somehow I caught the bug to lead every route 5.6 and under in the NRG (thompson guide)and finished, except for 2 offwidths I dont have gear for YET. I've also done about half of the 5.7s mostly on rope solo trad.
so, here is the real list of good beginner routes, some popular, some untravelled.
5.3 Impulse Power - after a 5.6 first pitch (transporter crack) - easy, good
fall zone once your above the belay ledge a bit, great pro
5.4 Dairy Area (and variation finish) good pro, good fall, lots of weird
knobby holds.
5.4 Newd Scientist two pitch with a bit more creative pro for a beginner on
P1, maybe good after a dozen leads??? tree anchors at the end of both
pitches (50ft each)
5.4 Reed's Ladder takes passive pro well (not that the others dont...) fun
unique route, not a superb fall zone
5.4 Stoat's Escape not a great early lead, but really fun if you like
chimneys and lichen. good to show how hard easy routes can be. there
is a slot for a #1 metolius about halfway, and a 4.5" cam (or bigger) fits by it too
5.5 The Gospel Trek short, some hand jams
5.5 Afternoon Delight CLASSIC. squeeze chimney to ledge (a 2.5 friend
gives iffy pro for topping out the chimney), corner to traverse under roof
either way, boulder to top. super fun, I've lapped it many times
5.6 Crack of the Klingons, Transporter Crack, and Beam Me Up Scotty
(right with Impulse Crack) steep, great pro. Trans. Crack is wide, but
there are slots that fit pro as
well as the main crack
5.6 Distortionist Fun and super easy for a 5.6. I routinely hike this along
with Afternoon Delight.
5.6 McStumpy's Sandwich Crack - nice for big hexes, lots of pro everywhere
5.7 Beginner's Only the name says it.. doesn't deserve such a high rating
a great early lead - nice corner crack with great pro and good falls, not
that we'd be falling this easy!!
5.7 Gone With the Bubba short handish crack
5.7 Journey to the Center of the Brain
5.7 Sand in My Crack rainy day route, great pro and falls"
5.8 Labrador Retriever super nice remote varied crack - well worth the hike to Dog Wall
5.8 Fantasy - I regularly dream about trad rope soloing this again. Enough said.
5.9 Ritz Cracker
5.9 V slot
5.10 Cool Crack
I wish I could be there. I'm currently in CO surrounded by giant cliffs of incredibly loose rock.
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bobruef
Jun 15, 2007, 3:45 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2005
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Any more good stuff at Bubba City?
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zealotnoob
Jun 15, 2007, 3:57 PM
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Registered: Nov 2, 2006
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You already have them, but I'll second the votes for Jaws, Four Sheets and Super Crack. ...I wanna go!
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johnathon78
Jun 15, 2007, 10:24 PM
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yea, your momma is good. your momma is huge at the top, she actually takes a #4 up there so be careful with your momma, I was. Your momma is located on south bridge wall. Go to touron buttr...I mean bridge buttress, and take a left and cross the creek.
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