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justthemaid
Jun 16, 2007, 4:45 PM
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Dagnabbit- I could have trumped that pic if I only had a camera last week. 3 anchors by the same guy.
Anchor #1: Guy placed 3 cams but didn't bother to equalize and only one was weighted (in soft sandstone). Was using an alpine equalizer(?) Tied to one piece of accessory cord to extend over the edge.
Anchor # 2: 4 pieces placed. Equalized with sliding biners on several slings but not a single twist or knot to make the magic Xs. In other words... if ANY one of the four pieces pulled the entire anchor would fail and kill the climber.
Anchor #3: Cordalette + 1 locking biner on one bolt when there was a second and even a third bolt within a few feet.
The sheer creativity was mind boggling. Is there some nOOb logic I'm not getting here? Maybe I'M the stupid one.
Offered to let me take a ride on their ropes. Uh...I politely declined.
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SkaFreak
Jun 16, 2007, 4:45 PM
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10 points to the psychic.
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justthemaid
Jun 16, 2007, 4:50 PM
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I *(heart)* Majid.
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overlord
Jun 16, 2007, 4:58 PM
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you know, if you do use the second tree for rerouting the rope, why not use it as a second anchoring point?
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sween345
Jun 16, 2007, 5:49 PM
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In reply to: you know, if you do use the second tree for rerouting the rope, why not use it as a second anchoring point?
Point #1 in the discussion of the tree is you're not supposed to anchor off any trees in Peterskill. Pitch pines in particular, much less a twig that is used in the pictured setup.
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bent_gate
Jun 16, 2007, 5:53 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: overlord wrote: you know, if you do use the second tree for rerouting the rope, why not use it as a second anchoring point? You could use it if it is in the right place but some time , you may be safer to have your strong anchor set in the back and have a change of direction to avoid shape edges. 
Majid, Kudos on the nice graphics package! You are moving up in the desktop graphics world. Nice job.
But I have to point out: your climber is not wearing a helmet! If you don't have one with your graphics clip-art, then you need to draw one and make sure to put in on the head every time! Just like real life. 
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thegrobe
Jun 16, 2007, 5:54 PM
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That is a route it looks about as high as a basketball hoop? WTF this is actually a route?
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rc_vinay
Jun 16, 2007, 7:30 PM
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guess who is climbing on that rock......?
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walkonyourhands
Jun 16, 2007, 8:12 PM
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bent_gate wrote: majid_sabet wrote: overlord wrote: you know, if you do use the second tree for rerouting the rope, why not use it as a second anchoring point? You could use it if it is in the right place but some time , you may be safer to have your strong anchor set in the back and have a change of direction to avoid shape edges. Majid, Kudos on the nice graphics package! You are moving up in the desktop graphics world. Nice job. But I have to point out: your climber is not wearing a helmet! If you don't have one with your graphics clip-art, then you need to draw one and make sure to put in on the head every time! Just like real life.
And, it's not recommended tying in with a single red dot. Often they fail only at body load.
(This post was edited by walkonyourhands on Jun 16, 2007, 8:13 PM)
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majid_sabet
Jun 17, 2007, 2:16 AM
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bent_gate
Only if it makes you happy
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 17, 2007, 2:42 AM)
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dlintz
Jun 17, 2007, 4:37 AM
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LOL!!
I *(heart)* this thread.
d.
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uzibear
Jun 17, 2007, 8:23 AM
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that's not even funny
looks decidedly like the garbage anchors that were put up for some adventure race tyrolean traverse in malibu creek canyon when i was there awhile ago
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bbirtle
Jun 17, 2007, 6:06 PM
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Climbing with a quite experienced mostly-sport climber a few weeks back. She arrives at the anchor and doesn't like the looks of it and asks me "should I leave a sling and lower off that?"
(And since this is a Beginners forum, the moral is to never, ever, ever do that.)
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oldsalt
Jun 17, 2007, 7:38 PM
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 At the base of Jim Dandy at Table Rock, Linville Gorge, NC.
There are pieces of the root ball of this fallen giant that are larger than the tree in the anchor pic. The main trunk of this beast has a radius of at least 3 feet, and it still fell. My heart nearly stopped when I first saw the anchor in the OP.
Words fail me.
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alex234
Jun 17, 2007, 9:14 PM
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i guess the person who set up the anchor doesnt believe in redundency huh
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erick
Jun 19, 2007, 1:46 AM
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nor sharp edges..........
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rocknice2
Jun 19, 2007, 2:11 AM
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oldsalt wrote: At the base of Jim Dandy at Table Rock, Linville Gorge, NC. There are pieces of the root ball of this fallen giant that are larger than the tree in the anchor pic. The main trunk of this beast has a radius of at least 3 feet, and it still fell. My heart nearly stopped when I first saw the anchor in the OP. Words fail me.
I would still rap off this tree b4 the manky at the begining
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moose_droppings
Jun 19, 2007, 3:00 AM
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dlintz wrote: LOL!! I *(heart)* this thread. d.
I *(club)* this thread.
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bennydh
Jun 19, 2007, 3:10 AM
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This is one of the better threads that has popped up in a while.
...Maybe the beginners forum should have a section of photos, where beginners can print images like these onto index cards to take to the crag. If their anchor looks like an image on any of the cards it should advise that they quit life immediately and efficiently, far away from any crag so that the death of an idiot doesn't create an access issue.
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paulraphael
Jun 25, 2007, 11:47 PM
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alex234 wrote: i guess the person who set up the anchor doesnt believe in redundancy huh
And they don't believe in redundancy.
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wanderlustmd
Jun 26, 2007, 3:36 PM
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taino wrote: granite_grrl wrote: taino wrote: I swear, that's what I watched someone set up as a TR anchor. It did go down to two biners, though. Did anyone say any thing to them? What was their reaction? The first I knew anyone was there was when the guy popped his head over the top of the route. I glanced over from my clients, noticed that he had led up (no other way to get there except past me) and that he had a rack of gear. I noticed that he had slung the tree, in preparation - I thought - of building a more complete anchor. I said hello, got a brusque nod in return, and refocused my attention to my clients. About 20 minutes later, I glanced back in that direction - and saw that strand. I scrambled down for a better look, and took that picture. I didn't choose to abandon my clients and downclimb to the top of his route to attempt to offer gear/cordage on loan; the two times I've attempted that have been rather rudely rebuffed. It's worth noting that I didn't hear any conversation from below at any time; he may have been lead-soloing. I have no idea. My clients finished at that location, and we left the area. T
Looks like you just found some new clients!
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duckbuster_13
Jun 27, 2007, 2:15 AM
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nostalgia wrote: Best. Pictures. Evar. [quote This one made me laugh out loud. The little army man appears to be lowering a dead body into a great chasm underneath him. While sitting on the ground, of course. And anchored to a floating asteroid. With trees on it. Bravo, M_S, bravo. -Joe
LMFAO! this thread is killing me.
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