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taibor2
Jun 20, 2007, 2:15 PM
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I understand the higher the number the harder the climb, but what exactly goes into rating a route? How would I determine an unnamed route?
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taibor2
Jun 20, 2007, 2:40 PM
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The only thing I can come up with is relativity... but just because I climb a V4 in North Carolina doesn't mean I'll be able to get a V4 in Colorado.
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silascl
Jun 20, 2007, 6:26 PM
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It's purely subjective. Someone who has climbed a lot of v0-v4 routes should be able to tell if a route feels like v1, or v2, or v4. There's no formula (undercling+crimp+highstep=v2).
You'll find that these ratings are relatively consistent across all the boulders in a certain area, especially if they were developed at the same time. But new climbs, very generally, tend to be graded softer than old ones. And boulders in different areas can have wildly different ratings for a climb of similar difficulty.
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taibor2
Jun 20, 2007, 6:50 PM
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That's exactly what I have found the more I climb... I have another wonderful question... I'm in NC right now and the only actual climbing routes that are rated and stuff are way out west, at least 5 hours away, but there are some great places that are in central NC but there are no named routes or anything... how would someone go about "discovering" a route and posting it with fairly correct information??? Is there even a need for that to benefit other climbers?
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silascl
Jun 20, 2007, 7:15 PM
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If there's chalk or other evidence of previous ascents, there's likely to be someone around who knows the first ascentionist, what they graded the route at, and what the general consensus is for the current grade. Search online a bit, there may not be guidebooks, but you'll probably find something. If not you can hang out in the parking lot and see if anyone shows up to boulder.
If there's just a pile of rocks and no recent evidence of climbers, it could be a completely new area. This is unlikely if it's a bunch of boulders at the bottom of an existing crag. But if so, you can talk to the land managers about climbing there, then go find some cool lines on the boulders.
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Justin678
Jun 20, 2007, 7:23 PM
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I have another question about how different parts of America have different standards for there grades. ( for example a v4 in CO might be considered a V6 in NY). My question is that in what part of America: southwest, east coast, mountain states, mid-west, south, or the west coast have the highest standards for their grade. Meaning where are the grades the hardest, where you can climb a V4 but over there you could only climb their V1s.
I hope that question makes since.
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taibor2
Jun 20, 2007, 7:47 PM
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For me... I think it's really hard to answer that because the type of rock also has a lot to do with how "hard" it is to climb... I think this discussion is bring to a head that the rating system is not set in stone... no pun intended. Maybe the only way to find out which is the hardest would be to climb it for yourself. If there is a huge buzz about a V6 somewhere and everyone talks about how hard it is, then check it out for yourself while comparing it to other V6's you've taken on.
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zionvier
Jun 20, 2007, 7:50 PM
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if you haven't already, check out http://www.mountainproject.com You can begin building the area if it's not already listed on there. Based on what you said you could post the climbs, try to give it the best descriptions and post some beta photos, give it a rating you've heard it is or feel it is and in the description let everyone know that if they have any information to add, know who the FA was, the original rating it was given, and other such info they can just e-mail you and you'd be glad to update it. Perhaps if you started the area on that web site others that know more about the area will contact you and help fill in that info. You'd basically become the admin of that area and the routes you post, so maintaining it in the long run would be your job. Who knows, maybe it's already there.... but I glanced on there and there was only a few areas for NC listed.
Oh, and if I ever fly back to visit old friends in Charlotte I'd love to come check out what's available in NC. I wasn't been exposed to climbing until after I moved out of the state.
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eastvillage
Jun 20, 2007, 9:55 PM
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Justin678 wrote: I have another question about how different parts of America have different standards for there grades. ( for example a v4 in CO might be considered a V6 in NY). My question is that in what part of America: southwest, east coast, mountain states, mid-west, south, or the west coast have the highest standards for their grade. Meaning where are the grades the hardest, where you can climb a V4 but over there you could only climb their V1s. I hope that question makes since.
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taibor2
Jun 21, 2007, 12:43 AM
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That is quite a task... but I'll give it a try. My climbing partner is actually more familiar with the areas in NC to climb. We'll see what we can muster up... see if we can put north carolina on the map.
As far as places near Charlotte... there are a few good places to go just southwest of charlotte. There is a national park about an hour and a half away that has some of the best climbing in NC that I've heard of.
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taibor2
Jun 21, 2007, 10:15 AM
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Correction... It is not a National Park... it is a state park that is close to Charlotte... Crowders Mountain State Park. Depending on if you enter the park from the north or south you will travel down rockloop trail or blackside trail and there is some sick bouldering along this trail.
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king_rat
Jun 21, 2007, 11:52 AM
Post #12 of 14
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taibor2 wrote: there are some great places that are in central NC but there are no named routes or anything... how would someone go about "discovering" a route and posting it with fairly correct information??? Is there even a need for that to benefit other climbers?
you could try to make contact with other local climbers and see if you can tap into their knowlidge, try your local gym or see if the people at you local climbing shop know anything.
if the rocks good then just go and climb it and enjoy yourself, you don't have to have a guide book, have fun explor and be safe.
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taibor2
Jun 21, 2007, 1:46 PM
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I'm all about having fun and not going by a route... most of the time I could care less if the route is marked or how difficult; as long as I feel it in my fingers, I'm happy. I have just been wondering how to get some great climbs posted so that others can enjoy the same climb and actually get some accurate information on a specific climb. And so I can remember/record some of the routes I've done for myself. I'm a stat geek so I like to have my information.
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edl
Jul 10, 2007, 6:55 AM
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taibor2 wrote: That is quite a task... but I'll give it a try. My climbing partner is actually more familiar with the areas in NC to climb. We'll see what we can muster up... see if we can put north carolina on the map.
Before proceeding with that you should ask yourself a few questions. Things like "what are the possible consequences of my actions". Think about access issues, people trampling stuff, etc. For example some areas are kept word of mouth for good reasons. Not trying to discourage you, I think that site is a great resource, but I also think that posting something on that site requires responsibility.
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