|
zealotnoob
Jul 11, 2007, 2:58 PM
Post #1 of 10
(7393 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
I feel the time has come to try a Gunks 5.10. Recommendations for a first? (something solid for the grade, but with decent rests)
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Jul 16, 2007, 2:04 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
rangerrob
Jul 11, 2007, 3:10 PM
Post #2 of 10
(7379 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 8, 2003
Posts: 641
|
Retribution or Nosedive make good first 5.10 leads. Both have decent rests, only one 5.10 crux, and good gear the whole way. Nosedive is more sustained climbing, while Retribution has a slightly harder crux. Both go at 10b.
Simple Suff is also a great 5.10a route with good gear. Awkward first move, but not too hard. The rest is a sustained 5.9 corner with a 10a crux.
Wegetables is the easiest 5.10 I think. A lot of people think it is only 5.9. However, it is really good climbing. Marginal gear to protect a low crux, then pulg and go after that.
RR
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Jul 11, 2007, 3:11 PM
Post #3 of 10
(7378 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
|
Retribution, Shady Lady. See what gunks.com says
|
|
|
|
|
lucander
Jul 11, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #4 of 10
(7374 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 2, 2003
Posts: 274
|
Never Never Land, it's the standard for five ten face climbing. You can leave a biner on a bolt if you screw up.
Criss Cross Direct will throw a safe crux in your face right off the ground, you may fall but at least you'll have to get a redpoint.
Balrog, one hard move with a bomber piece above your head
Healdess Horseman, no one does it and it's probably 5.8+
Avoid Nosedive and Retribution as your first Gunks ten onsights until you get a little stronger, the Uberfall gawkers will make a scene when you lead it and a tosser is likely to lower his toprope on you from Bunny.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_fencer
Jul 11, 2007, 3:41 PM
Post #5 of 10
(7353 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 7, 2005
Posts: 752
|
I second the fact that wedgetables is a super easy ten.
There is always Try it again at McCarthy Wall
|
|
|
|
|
cchas
Jul 13, 2007, 2:35 PM
Post #6 of 10
(7307 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
|
1) BirdCage (5.10a/b) in the Nears. The dihedral is good fun but fairly moderate. before the traverse to the overhang there are good jugs to relax before you traverse over and do the overhang. Pretty good fun with standard gunks type climbing
2) Simple Suff (5.10a) good climbing with decent gear (especially if you are good with small nuts). Some people think the beginning isn't that well protected but small nuts will sew that up. Just really work the stem
|
|
|
|
|
coppertone
Jul 15, 2007, 11:58 PM
Post #7 of 10
(7253 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2005
Posts: 32
|
Criss Cross is good, but the start can be very greasy espeically in the summer.
Retribution is a better choice than Nosedive as was said Nosedive in more sustained. Gear is good on both.
Simple Suff is a good choice if you like stemming. If you have done Ants Line or the first pitch of the Spring then Simple Suff is a logical progression.
Shady Lady, know as P38 is a very good choice. The only problem being that you may place too much gear and get pumped out. There is also one runout 5.8 move at the top after the crux.
Try Again is very safe, but the moves over the roof are no gimme.
Falled on Account of Strain is actually a fantastic 2 pitch 5.10. The first pitch is 10a face climbing. The second pitch is a giant 10.b roof with great hold and great gear.
Neverneverland is a great choice if you like thin face. We protected and not too hard.
Wegetables is a great climb. The start actually protects fairly well with Rp's or small brassies. The tiered roof is great fun. It is a bit of a walk though and may take a little looking if you've never been down that far.
Frustration Syndrome is a bit harder, but it has great gear, stances and good holds. This climb actually fits the bill for what you are asking for, while not an easy entry level 10, it is very safe with a number of rests in between hard moves.
|
|
|
|
|
zealotnoob
Jul 16, 2007, 1:55 PM
Post #8 of 10
(7198 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2006
Posts: 525
|
Thanks to all. I'll be adding them all to my tick list.
I climbed yesterday, warming up on Lisa 5.9 to see where my head was. It went smooth as butter and filled me with confidence.
Then we headed to Never Never Land (10a). I don't have much experience with pure face climbing, so I was a little uncertain, but excited.
As soon as I roped up and touched the wall a brief thunderstorm broke out, wetting the face just enough to make it slick. Reluctantly, I backed off.
We decided this was a good time for a multi-pitch moderate to further acquaint my girlfriend with our beloved timepast. We found Triple Bulges by the guide wall and made quick work of it.
A bathroom break at the Uber-Fall put us near Retribution and Nosedive, so I decided to go check them out. There was a party toproping on Nosedive, so I focused on Retribution.
It looked hard, but I felt ready.
"No guts no glory," I said to myself as I grabbed the rack and approached the climb.
Before I knew it I was under the roof/crux, trying to decypher the moves. I saw a high left foot I could use and a slopy pincher on the left arete, but that it was completely devoid of chaulk worried me.
The moment came where I knew I was losing strength in my stance, so I committed to my dubious sequence.
Once I pulled myself up, I couldn't quite decide which hand to use to reach for the finger pocket over the roof. My right hand was on a good side-pull, but reaching with my left would have required uncalled for body tension. My left was pawing the subtle bulge on the arete and wasn't inspiring confidence, but I knew reaching with the right was what had to go down.
I went for it, trying to maintain smoothness in my full-clenched state, and became energized when I sank my fingers in the pocket and locked them in.
"Man it would be nice just to plug a cam right now," I thought, but, even though I probably could have just plugged a cam, the features begged for a nut. I found the right size on my third try, clipped it and breathed a sigh of relief.
At this point the thunderstorms and rain were coming back, but I barely took notice. After a few more balancy moves I knew the thing was as good as sent.
Happily I reached the bolts and looked down to see my partner and girlfriend smiling up at me.
...and I've been climbing that route ever since on the walls in my head. Good stuff. 
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Jul 16, 2007, 4:21 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
bobruef
Jul 16, 2007, 2:16 PM
Post #9 of 10
(7179 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2005
Posts: 884
|
NICE WORK!!! You're certainly off to an impressive start.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Jul 16, 2007, 2:37 PM
Post #10 of 10
(7165 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Good stuff! And if this was in the heat on Sunday, that makes it a bit tougher!
No other ones to add. I'm just breaking into the grade there myself, and all I can say is that all of the ones mentioned that I've done so far are excellent climbs.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
|
