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microbarn
Mar 7, 2007, 4:27 PM
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I am looking to build my head a bit more. It was weak last year, and I am coming back from a winter of too little climbing.
What areas/developers at the new have a reputation for having/creating overbolted 5.10- and easier climbs?
An easy climb with great practice fall potential would be perfect if you know of any.
Thanks
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microbarn
Mar 7, 2007, 4:28 PM
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The connection to the New River Gorge may not be prominent enough. I am looking for routes specific to this area.
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j_ung
Mar 7, 2007, 4:47 PM
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Dood, Cottontop has two terrific tens with very clean fall potential. The bolts aren't close, per se, but the falls are as safe as falls get. The Meadow has several also. Let me know if you wanna check out the 'Top. There's no topo, so a tour might be helpful.
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microbarn
Mar 7, 2007, 4:51 PM
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Thanks, I was hoping you would see this thread.
I will definitely get in contact with you when I am making my next trip down.
Dan
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dreday3000
Mar 7, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Hey Jung,
Whats the name of the 12a at Cotton Top that goes up a left leaning, overhanging arete? Who put it up? Great climb!
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noell
Mar 15, 2007, 3:11 AM
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I believe the route you are talking about is a Kenny Parker line that he called Psycho Wrangler. Cool line eh?
10's- Orange Oswald baby, and perot wall too.
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dreday3000
Mar 15, 2007, 2:08 PM
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Yeah, very cool. Pumpfest, little airy, with both technical and redpoint crux. What's not to love?
Are you saying he put up the 10s at Organ Oswald? Man this Parker guys is good. I'll defiently be looking to get on more of his lines. |
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redpoint73
Mar 15, 2007, 2:23 PM
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noell wrote: 10's- Orange Oswald baby, and perot wall too.
Perot, for routes that are overbolted and good for practice falls? I have to disagree. Most of those routes have the first bolt 20 ft. off the ground, and can be runout after that. If the OP is trying to get his lead head back, and 5.10 is his limit, I think he would be sketched. Maybe there is one or 2 of the routes that are better bolted? I don't remember every single one. But I found most of them to be a bit awkward and scary.
I agree that Orange Oswald has some good easier routes.
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dreday3000
Mar 15, 2007, 2:38 PM
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Yeah you might be right about Perot wall. The actual movement on that wall is pretty good but the grades are stiff and the bolts a little funky. Still, between orange oswald and Psycho Wrangler, Parker defiently deserves some appreciation.
Anyone know where else he has put up routes?
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j_ung
Mar 15, 2007, 2:58 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: Yeah you might be right about Perot wall. The actual movement on that wall is pretty good but the grades are stiff and the bolts a little funky. Still, between orange oswald and Psycho Wrangler, Parker defiently deserves some appreciation. Anyone know where else he has put up routes?
Noell's right about Psycho Wrangler. I still haven't been on it, but several people I respect have called it one of the best of its grade in the Gorge. I'm not sure about Kenny putting up the Oswald routes. I'll ask when I see him. (My understanding is that every last one of them is a retro-bolted trad line.)
FYI: Parker's one of the most prolific NRG first ascencionists ever, and he's still active with past-year FAs and open lines at Cottontop, Whipperwill and several local boulder fields. His routes are all over the southeast and, as a matter of fact, he's the infamous "Bubba," for whom Bubba City is named.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Mar 15, 2007, 2:59 PM)
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dreday3000
Mar 15, 2007, 3:34 PM
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Whoa. Huge debt of grattitude to Mr. Parker.
Did a few routes at Whipperwill and really enjoyed them. Routes don't seem to get too much traffic so a few were a touch mossy. Beuatiful 11 D arete climb down there. gotta try that out of the water sometime.
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thorne
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Mar 15, 2007, 7:23 PM
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Orange Oswald
Long Wall
Butchers Branch
Tattoo Wall
Go early. Beat the crowds. 
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microbarn
Mar 15, 2007, 7:33 PM
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You are definitely correct on beating the crowds. I was asking this question because Tattoo Wall and Orange Oswald in particular have been insanely crowded when I go.
Another thing to think about: I went to Tattoo Wall and did some practice falls, but the routes we were on were not safe to fall from all positions. I was working my fall length up from 0 to standard bolt range and came very close to hitting the large tree limbs behind me at about 1-2 feet above the bolts. I admit, I didn't try falling on all the routes because the other routes were taken, but now I pay more attention to tree limb danger then before.
I will look up your other suggestions when I have my guidebook with me.
Thanks to everyone,
Dan
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noell
Mar 15, 2007, 9:14 PM
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Two quick replies - first I am not sure if Kenny put up the Orange Oswald or Perot Wall routes, I don't know who bolted most of the stuff at the lake, honestly. I just know Kenny put up that route at Cottontop.
Secondly, about Perot routes - I do agree that a stick clip would be a wise idea. I am always a fan of stick clips, even if the 1st bolt is super easy to get to- you never know! Safety first, always. Other than that, when I was redpointing 10's I felt pretty comfortable on those routes. That could be because I generally feel more comfortable on steep pumpy climbs and not on facey climbs, so they felt right on to me. But everyone is welcome to disagree; maybe try the easiest one on the route and see how you feel about the wall? I think there was a 9+ at the left side (definitely stick that one!!!)?
I would have to ditto Butcher's. Also some classic 10's. And a great 5.9 at that!
(This post was edited by noell on Mar 15, 2007, 9:17 PM)
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munky
Mar 16, 2007, 4:56 PM
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I'm gonna be at the New the week of March 30-April 6 with 3 friends. I've never climbed at Cottontop and would love to get some beta or a tour. I've been to most of the other areas at the New but I always love seeing new areas.
Munky
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kostik
Sep 18, 2007, 8:09 PM
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noell wrote: I believe the route you are talking about is a Kenny Parker line that he called Psycho Wrangler. Cool line eh?
What are the names and grades of the three routes on the right on Cottontop? The ones you run into once you get there? The right one feels like 5.10, and the other two are 5.11 or so.
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