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Climbing ratings

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Poll: Climbing ratings
Yosemite DS rating should be the world's standard	14 / 34%
No, leave each rating the way they are	27 / 66%
41 total votes

majid_sabet

Oct 4, 2007, 6:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390

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jgloporto

Oct 4, 2007, 6:40 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2006
Posts: 5522

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:

That's very imperialistic of you!

hopperhopper

Oct 4, 2007, 7:00 PM
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Registered: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 475

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

it would be nice...but never gonna happen.

that's like asking everyone in the world to speak english.

kriso9tails

Oct 4, 2007, 7:09 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Y' know, I agree in sentiment, but I think we should all switch to the French scale so it won't fuck up our 8a.nu cards. Then again, how will I be a snotty prick at the gym if I can't confuse people by referring to things with foreign grades?

EPiCJAMES

Oct 4, 2007, 7:15 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2007
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Re: [hopperhopper] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

hopperhopper wrote:

it would be nice...but never gonna happen.

that's like asking everyone in the world to speak english.

wouldn't it be nice... or at least everyone in america speaking english. half of my city speaks spanish!!! no surprise there, i'm sure.

gqsmooth

Oct 4, 2007, 7:19 PM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2005
Posts: 572

Re: [EPiCJAMES] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

you and sharufa should get together and change the whole climbing game as you see fit.

while you are at it, change it so it's no longer called climbing, make it something else. scaling, verticaling, or upping

sed

Oct 4, 2007, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2003
Posts: 356

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

i think we should switch to my 5 level rating system. here it is, no numbers needed:

walk in the park(5.1-5.5)
A fun romp (5.6-5.8)
Effort (5.9 - 5.10)
Hard (5.11 - 5.12)
Fn Impossible (5.13 - 5.14)

These are the only ratings a person should ever need.

shockabuku

Oct 4, 2007, 7:34 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [sed] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sed wrote:

Bold added for emphasis. Right. Because no one will ever climb 5.15.

shockabuku

Oct 4, 2007, 7:36 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Re: [hopperhopper] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

hopperhopper wrote:

that's like asking everyone in the world to speak english.

You mean they don't?

rocdaug

Oct 4, 2007, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
Posts: 220

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

and we should all speak the same language, pray to the same god, eat the same food, wear the same clothes.

gawd, what a boring place! Frown

(This post was edited by rocdaug on Oct 4, 2007, 7:37 PM)

chr1s

Oct 4, 2007, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Aug 30, 2004
Posts: 32

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

[Certainly a troll, but that won't stop me raging on the YDS.]

YDS? Surely you're shitting me?

Does anybody here really believe that the YDS is best grading system?

Rating a climb by it's single hardest move (YDS formal definition)- that's bullshit!

A mostly 5.9 climb with one 12a move - should be graded 12a, probably could be climbed by most mid-11 climbers.

A climb that is 100 ft of 12a moves - should be graded 12a, probably couldn't be climbed by a mid-12 climber.

Of course, the current usage of the YDS has deviated from it's original meaning, but still......

The only truly useful grading system (for trad) is the UK one, but that appears to be too complicated for dumb-ass Americans to comprehend.

macherry

Oct 4, 2007, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 15848

Re: [EPiCJAMES] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

EPiCJAMES wrote:

hopperhopper wrote:

it would be nice...but never gonna happen.

that's like asking everyone in the world to speak english.

wouldn't it be nice... or at least everyone in america speaking english. half of my city speaks spanish!!! no surprise there, i'm sure.

where's the smilie emoticon that rolls its eyes.......dammit

chossmonkey

Oct 4, 2007, 9:57 PM
Post #13 of 31 (1870 views)
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414

Re: [macherry] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

macherry wrote:

EPiCJAMES wrote:

hopperhopper wrote:

it would be nice...but never gonna happen.

that's like asking everyone in the world to speak english.

wouldn't it be nice... or at least everyone in america speaking english. half of my city speaks spanish!!! no surprise there, i'm sure.

where's the smilie emoticon that rolls its eyes.......dammit

I've got it but I'm not sharing!!!

justroberto

Oct 4, 2007, 10:15 PM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [sed] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

sed wrote:

oo oo! what about my scale?:

walk in the park(actual walk in the park)
Effort (5.1 to 5.8)
Hard (5.9 to 5.10-)
Fn Impossible (5.9+)

binrat

Oct 4, 2007, 10:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155

Re: [justroberto] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

I like my way, Yup looks fun, lets do it. "

Binrat

hiyapokey

Oct 5, 2007, 2:07 AM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2006
Posts: 315

Re: [shockabuku] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

According to the original Star Trek the whole universe speaks English, at least most of the time. If you watch Hogan's Heroes even Germans speak English with a German accent. I zeee nothink. I hearr nothink.

rjtrials

Oct 5, 2007, 2:20 AM
Post #17 of 31 (1758 views)
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Registered: Sep 7, 2002
Posts: 342

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:

IMO, I say, we should use
Yosemite rating for the whole world.

The French scale is a much better scale IMO. Same with the Font vs V scale.

Let the French have their day. This is one of the very few things they got right :)

EPiCJAMES

Oct 5, 2007, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2007
Posts: 391

Re: [rjtrials] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

rjtrials wrote:

Let the French have their day. This is one of the very few things they got right :)

nope, french fries are good tooo. hahaha.

rockguide

Oct 5, 2007, 3:02 AM
Post #19 of 31 (1726 views)
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Ditch all grading systems for the Aussie system. Numbers. No letters, no pluses or minuses.

The only psychological barriers at 19/20 and 29/30

B

curt

Oct 5, 2007, 4:32 AM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275

Re: [majid_sabet] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:

IMO, I say, we should use Yosemite rating for the whole world.

No fucking way. If we standardized, that would be one less thing we could argue about.

Curt

ClusterFock

Oct 5, 2007, 6:35 AM
Post #21 of 31 (1670 views)
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Registered: Jun 29, 2007
Posts: 95

Re: [rockguide] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

rockguide wrote:

Ditch all grading systems for the Aussie system. Numbers. No letters, no pluses or minuses.

The only psychological barriers at 19/20 and 29/30

B

Agreed. Not just because I'm an Aussie but because the grading makes sense. Why the fuck would you use decimal points, plusses, minusses etc for grading?

reverse_dyno

Oct 5, 2007, 11:17 AM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2005
Posts: 69

Re: [ClusterFock] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Why do we even need ratings? In the olden days people just eye balled a climb and said lets do it.

No ratings would make trad climbing much more interesting.

I am so cheap that I often will not buy a guild to a sport climbing area. Just look up and guess the rating.

justroberto

Oct 5, 2007, 12:20 PM
Post #23 of 31 (1614 views)
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Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [reverse_dyno] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

reverse_dyno wrote:

I am so cheap that I often will not buy a guild to a sport climbing area.

I wouldn't buy a sport climbing guild either; that would be really expensive.

blueeyedclimber

Oct 5, 2007, 1:21 PM
Post #24 of 31 (1586 views)
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [justroberto] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

This is the only rating system I care about:

G
PG
R
X

Josh

rockguide

Oct 5, 2007, 1:27 PM
Post #25 of 31 (1583 views)
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359

Re: [justroberto] Climbing ratings [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

justroberto wrote:

reverse_dyno wrote:

I am so cheap that I often will not buy a guild to a sport climbing area.

I wouldn't buy a sport climbing guild either; that would be really expensive.

They wouldn't be expensive to feed though. Wink

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