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patmay81
Oct 22, 2007, 7:59 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081
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I climb here regularly and have recently attempted a new route. I am assuming no one else has climbed it as it is on a section of the columns wall that is so covered in lichen and dirt that it was a huge fight. does anyone know the local policy on cleaning/bolting? I know its a city park so I dont want to tick anyone off by scrubbing and bolting if I am not supposed to. the route is a pair of offset cracks (a few columns left of the bolted lines) that finishes after the roof. Since there are no rap bolts it was even harder to downclimb. It was a fun climb, and would be even more fun if i didnt have to fight with all the dirty faces and difficult decent, so if anyone knows the "local ethics" or wants to help me out please let me know.
-pat
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kingsmm
Feb 14, 2008, 9:10 AM
Post #2 of 3
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Registered: Jun 7, 2003
Posts: 25
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I've climbed at waterboard a few times. It's a fun little crag. I'm not sure if your question is still reverent. I'd say go for it. New routes are great in my opinion. It never will be a "classic" area anyways. I would say that you should use caution when placing bolts. If you are going to bolt a route do it right. (no bolting cracks, well spaced, etc.) Let me know if you plan on doing more route development. Best of luck.
-Kip
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patmay81
Feb 26, 2008, 9:59 PM
Post #3 of 3
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
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Ive aided the route, and freed the first 3 moves. Its a flesh eater, but it should go at about .11a. The only bolts I would place would be one at the traverse between the two cracks, and a couple for rap chains at the top. I have been going about twice a month, and try to clean a little moss of each time I go.
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