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stonefoxgirl
Oct 28, 2007, 5:21 PM
Post #26 of 118
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Registered: Jul 15, 2003
Posts: 595
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1) If you are belaying/lowering a climber to the ground don't speed lower and don't assume that they have their balance the very second they touch the dirt. Let them touch down, ask them if they are down, give them slack. That entire bit costs you less than 5 seconds, it's safe, it's comfortable.
2) DO NOT THROW ROCKS - EVER!
3) Don't bring excess gear and expect the other folks in your party to carry it.
4) Give a route a good try. Don't hang for an hour, then get pissed and continue trying and making a scene. We are all out to climb, try it again later and let someone else give it a try.
5) Lose the attitude and the ego
6) Respect everyone and everything around you. Offer a party help route finding, offer a climber who's been sitting and waiting a burn on your rope or a belay. And the obvious LNT.
7) If you, the passenger are riding to a crag in someones car, you, the passenger should buy the gas. The driver will be paying for the wear and tear on his vehicle (We all know $20 won't get ya there and back) If you DON'T have the cash for the trip - don't go unless this was discussed in advance.
8) Example: If I took off work an hour early, to leave early to drive to a crag for the weekend I better not get the call....."hey dude, be there in 15.....runnin late"........an hour and a half later........5:30 and rush hour traffic....and I'm the one driving.
9) A person in your party wants to have a beer and a fire after climbing.......but they don't have any cash.
Obviously, some of these aren't just geared toward climbers, and some are pet peeves and the rest is me venting. I'm sure that all of you have experienced all of these at some point or another, hopefully not consistently.
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notapplicable
Oct 28, 2007, 5:32 PM
Post #27 of 118
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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If the next pitch is a scary one and your partners looking sketched, offer to lead whether you want to or not.
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jammer
Oct 28, 2007, 6:00 PM
Post #28 of 118
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
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notch wrote: That girl you always see at the crag does not, in fact, want to date you. Ever.
Personal experience Matt???
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angry
Oct 28, 2007, 6:05 PM
Post #29 of 118
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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1. Don't bring your guns to the crag
2. No matter how cute someone's crag dog is, don't hump it.
3. If you must shit, please shit at the base of the climb. That way people will see it and not accidentally step in it.
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summerprophet
Oct 28, 2007, 6:59 PM
Post #30 of 118
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Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764
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While everyone seems to have their own rules (or variations on the same theme). Here is a quick list of mine.
1. Be Safe - First and foremost, check yourself, check your partner, check strangers around you if they look new or sketched. This is the primary rule, and allows you to ignore rule number two if someone endangers you or your partner.
2. Be Respectful - Limit the shouting while there are others around you, if you bring (ghetto blaster, dog, child, etc.) be aware of the effect thatt that will have on people around you (climbers and non-climbers). Show private land owners you appreciate the use of their property, offer to volenteer helping them out if they need anything. Be respectful of the first acsentionists style and the wilderness that the climbing is in. Clean up your shit, bolt responsibly (and only when required) IN SHORT, BE AWARE OF YOUR ACTIONS AND HOW IT PORTRAYS CLIMBERS AS A WHOLE.
3. Pass it on. - Climbing has a long history of mentoring, and it is by this that seperates us from the more common team sports or hobbies. Be open with information, and kind to the fledgling climbers. If you consider yourself an experienced climber, chances are, you were taught by a crusty old mountaineer who showed you the ways without payment or expectaions. (Beer doesn't count) The expectaion is that this knowledge woulod be passed on to future generations.
This could be anything from taking out a few nooobies and acting asa belay bitch for a few hours, or offer up your toprope to the obvious new climber beside you so he can try something at or near his limit. (assuming you need to lead to the anchors)
Thats my list, I am sure there will be many more to follow.
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jcrew
Oct 28, 2007, 7:25 PM
Post #31 of 118
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Registered: May 11, 2006
Posts: 673
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angry wrote: 1. Don't bring your guns to the crag
this isn't a joke.......living in the capital of the meth belt, getting shot or hit by a stray bullet is one of the objective dangers we must face.
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camhead
Oct 28, 2007, 7:45 PM
Post #32 of 118
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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when climbing with new partners, you can lighten the mood a bit, for example:
1) when your partner is sketching out on a lead, yell "hey, that bolt was kind of loose last time I climbed this! Just push it back in the rock! Oh and don't fall!"
2) put your partner on belay with an atc, and then say, "now, this is the thing that if you fall, I just let go and lean back, right?"
3) whenever they yell "TAKE," or "SLACK," or "LOWER ME," refer the request to the ground committee before making any decisions.
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altelis
Oct 28, 2007, 10:10 PM
Post #33 of 118
(3435 views)
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
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subtle wrote: 1. Wearing a beanie and a shirt means you are cold. Wearing a beanie without a shirt means you are a boulderer. Wearing a beanie without a shirt in a gym means you are a moron. 2. If you are wearing two different shoes, you have to send the proj. No exceptions. 3. Spoons not forks when spotting. If you must booty spot, you might want to wipe the chalk off your hands or someone's boyfriend is going to want a word with you. 4. If you bring a dog to the crag, you are responsible for it and everything it does. If I fall on your dog because you are being chased by a boyfriend angry about a booty full of your chalk, I will feel bad, but not that bad. 5. You should try your best to leave no trace. In case you were wondering, tape remnants, Red Bull cans, powerbar wrappers, crashpads, dogs and sleeping spotters count as traces. 6. If I wanted your beta, I'd ask for it. Chances are, I'd have asked for it when I was on the ground, not trying to pull the crux move. 7. Most people do not secretly want to be a sport climber/aid climber/trad climber/whatever type of climber you happen to be. Most climbers actually are the kind of climber they want to be. In my case, that is apparently weak and fat. 8. Get on, do your burn, then get off and move to the back of the line. While you are perma-fondling that third hold, someone is undoubtably chalking up your girlfriend or stealing your Red Bull and I have probably pancaked your dog. 9. Always listen to Dingus. He is wise. Allez. This crashpad smells like Alpo...uh-oh... Homard.
man----times like these dude, times like these.....i wish we still had trophies!
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shockabuku
Oct 28, 2007, 11:05 PM
Post #34 of 118
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Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
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jcrew wrote: angry wrote: 1. Don't bring your guns to the crag this isn't a joke.......living in the capital of the meth belt, getting shot or hit by a stray bullet is one of the objective dangers we must face.
I don't get it. Is it people randomly shooting their guns that is a danger or criminals that are shooting at people. If it's people randomly shooting their guns around, I don't see what that has to do with being in the "meth belt", and if it's criminals shooting at people then the obvious and most effective remedy to that is to shoot back, but better.
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notapplicable
Oct 28, 2007, 11:41 PM
Post #35 of 118
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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If your soloing try not to climb near other people. If someone is climbing unroped near you, give them a wide berth.
Watch out for other climbers gear and rides.
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epoch
Moderator
Oct 29, 2007, 12:30 AM
Post #36 of 118
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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Be patient.
........................................The rock isn't going anywhere soon.
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time2clmb
Oct 29, 2007, 1:08 AM
Post #37 of 118
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Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 473
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In reply to: If you, the passenger are riding to a crag in someones car, you, the passenger should buy the gas
I don't agree with this. The gas should get split. If the driver expects the passenger to foot the full bill then they should say so in advance....otherwise your only getting half...or an even split between who ever else is in the car. If you really want, I will buy you a coffee on top of it to cover the maintanence for the one trip that I was in your ride. I say this as the person who drives 90% of the time.
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mojomonkey
Oct 29, 2007, 1:58 AM
Post #38 of 118
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Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
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wallrat wrote: 6. Let someone else share your campsite if the place is full, and you can make room. You may well make a friend for life, and they'll be grateful.
7. If I let you share my campsite, don't stay up long after I turned in reading the new Harry Potter book aloud by headlight.
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epoch
Moderator
Oct 29, 2007, 2:04 AM
Post #39 of 118
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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mojomonkey wrote: wallrat wrote: 6. Let someone else share your campsite if the place is full, and you can make room. You may well make a friend for life, and they'll be grateful. 7. If I let you share my campsite, don't stay up long after I turned in reading the new Harry Potter book aloud by headlight.
8. If you pass out before me, I am fully entitled to ransack your stuff.
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notapplicable
Oct 29, 2007, 2:17 AM
Post #40 of 118
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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time2clmb wrote: In reply to: If you, the passenger are riding to a crag in someones car, you, the passenger should buy the gas I don't agree with this. The gas should get split. If the driver expects the passenger to foot the full bill then they should say so in advance....otherwise your only getting half...or an even split between who ever else is in the car. If you really want, I will buy you a coffee on top of it to cover the maintanence for the one trip that I was in your ride. I say this as the person who drives 90% of the time.
The arrangement I have with my parters is, if you drive your gas and camping get payed for by who ever is riding. This only applies to trips over an 1.5 or so hours, it only seems fair to me. Part of the reason I like this is that no one ever wants to ride to the cliff in my work truck so other people always drive and I insist on sharing the burdon anyway I can.
Edited to add: If on the other hand, you insist on hassleing me for gas money on a 30 min. ride, we probably wont be climbing together for long.
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Oct 29, 2007, 2:20 AM)
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dr_feelgood
Oct 29, 2007, 2:39 AM
Post #41 of 118
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 26060
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If you have more than one beer, you are obligated to share, even if we drink the last two beers that you own.
If I have two beers left, I will gladly give you one. Provided you offer to buy a sixer sometime in the future.
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PatMcGinn
Oct 29, 2007, 2:50 AM
Post #42 of 118
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Registered: Aug 11, 2007
Posts: 61
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1. Always, Always climb with a partner.
A: it is more fun
B: you are less likely to fall and get hurt.
C: it might help to have somebody to belay you.
2. If you are at a crag, please clean it up. It is annoying to have cans and trash lying around where people step.
3. always report other peoples lost gear.
4. don't steal lost gear.
5. the person who arrived before you gets priority on the route.
6. always bring:
a stickclip
more gear than you need
an extra rope (in case somebody needs one to borrow)
food
cell phone
bouldering pads
mapbook of the area
7. don't destroy the wilderness
8. be nice to other climbers!
9. HAVE FUN!
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epoch
Moderator
Oct 29, 2007, 3:09 AM
Post #43 of 118
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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PatMcGinn wrote: 6. always bring: a stickclip more gear than you need an extra rope (in case somebody needs one to borrow) food cell phone bouldering pads mapbook of the area
I'll be sure to remember to bring all that on the next backwoods climb I do. That is some seriously good advice. I don't know how I've been surviving without all that crap.
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tnchief
Oct 29, 2007, 3:16 AM
Post #44 of 118
(3220 views)
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 100
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eliclimbs wrote: 7. If your climbing partner is your girlfriend, treat her like your girlfriend instead of your climbing partner, always. Eli
I understand the spirit of this rule and agree with the intention. However, some of the climbers that I have seen treat their partners WAY better than the gf.
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overlord
Oct 29, 2007, 8:20 AM
Post #45 of 118
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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PatMcGinn wrote: an extra rope (in case somebody needs one to borrow)
well, if a party forgot a ROPE they needed, they are entitled to the hike back to the car and a ride home to fetch it. i will loan draws, slings etc if the party is short on something, but no way i am carrying an extra rope for them. theres just no way i am loaning a rope to a party that forgot theirs. if they forgot theirs at home, it speaks volumes about their skill level and responsibility and i cannot imagine that they would be able to treat my rope like they should (you know, running behind flakes, avoiding sharp edges, stuff like that)
two that i didnt yet see... (i could have missed them, but here it comes anyway)
a) if you 'rescue' someone elses gear, you are entitled to a beer (or a free ride on their GF), but dont bitch about it in case you dont get it. so ppl just dont know this tidbit, others are just incosiderate
b) if you need your gear to be rescued, make sure you buy the beer for whoever does it. not only did you get your gear back, this is also a chance for learning something from a climber that is obviously at least a bit better than you are.
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epoch
Moderator
Oct 29, 2007, 11:05 AM
Post #46 of 118
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Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 32163
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PatMcGinn wrote: 1. Always, Always climb with a partner. A: it is more fun B: you are less likely to fall and get hurt. C: it might help to have somebody to belay you. 2. If you are at a crag, please clean it up. It is annoying to have cans and trash lying around where people step. 3. always report other peoples lost gear. 4. don't steal lost gear. 5. the person who arrived before you gets priority on the route. 6. always bring: a stickclip more gear than you need an extra rope (in case somebody needs one to borrow) food cell phone bouldering pads mapbook of the area 7. don't destroy the wilderness 8. be nice to other climbers! 9. HAVE FUN!
You're one of those urban sport wankers aren't you?
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notapplicable
Oct 29, 2007, 11:18 AM
Post #47 of 118
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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PatMcGinn wrote: 1. Always, Always climb with a partner. A: it is more fun
Alone I get 10x the amount of climb in I would if I were roped to someone else. I get to climb the routes I want and get all the leads. Now that sounds like fun
PatMcGinn wrote: B: you are less likely to fall and get hurt.
If that were phrased: (You are less likely to get hurt if you fall) then I would agree. As it reads now, its just an inaccurate statement.
PatMcGinn wrote: C: it might help to have somebody to belay you.
If I'm looking to push my limits, yes it would. If I'm out to run some laps a belayer is just excess baggage.
*Not trying to jump all over man. Its just, some people prefer to climb alone. Roped or not.*
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cameltoe
Oct 29, 2007, 2:35 PM
Post #48 of 118
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Registered: Sep 13, 2006
Posts: 79
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tylerandapril wrote: Dont start a climb that someone is on. I hear Euros are bad about doing that. Let faster parties pass through on multi-pitch.
a) it's the french not the euro's
b) as the euro's are faster climbers surely your secondary 'let the faster party pass rule' applies - these rules are somewhat contradictory don't you feel?
:P
lhfCT
p.s. more seriously - Don't Rappel onto a lead climber - us euro's don't it's something I've only ever seen here in the US and it's bloody dangerous....
p.p.s. If somewhat spots you using your knee on a route they are allowed to shout 'beer fine' at which point when you se them in the pub later you must buy them a beer...
(This post was edited by cameltoe on Oct 29, 2007, 2:39 PM)
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xtrmecat
Oct 29, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #49 of 118
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
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Never alter the rock. Never alter a climb. You will know when these are to be broken. Until then, they are the "Golden" rules.
Bob
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granite_grrl
Oct 29, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #50 of 118
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
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notapplicable wrote: time2clmb wrote: In reply to: If you, the passenger are riding to a crag in someones car, you, the passenger should buy the gas I don't agree with this. The gas should get split. If the driver expects the passenger to foot the full bill then they should say so in advance....otherwise your only getting half...or an even split between who ever else is in the car. If you really want, I will buy you a coffee on top of it to cover the maintanence for the one trip that I was in your ride. I say this as the person who drives 90% of the time. The arrangement I have with my parters is, if you drive your gas and camping get payed for by who ever is riding. This only applies to trips over an 1.5 or so hours, it only seems fair to me. Part of the reason I like this is that no one ever wants to ride to the cliff in my work truck so other people always drive and I insist on sharing the burdon anyway I can. Edited to add: If on the other hand, you insist on hassleing me for gas money on a 30 min. ride, we probably wont be climbing together for long.
Nope, if its a longer trip the gas is split. Otherwise my friend who drives a civic would get ripping pissed when I insist we take my Alero half the time and made him pay for it.
For short drives I'm not even thinking about gas.
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