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angry
Nov 6, 2007, 12:48 AM
Post #26 of 97
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quote function n00b!!!
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camhead
Nov 6, 2007, 12:51 AM
Post #27 of 97
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BOULDER IZ LNGR 4 U !!!!!!11111
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m-earle
Nov 6, 2007, 1:36 AM
Post #28 of 97
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Someone mentiontioned it, but "deliverence" in yosemite is pretty hard. Its not OW, but it felt way harder than cedar eater. Its near "cedar crack."
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m-earle
Nov 6, 2007, 1:41 AM
Post #29 of 97
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Also, "ghettosnake" in tuolumne is a stout-ass fist prob. the reid guide calls it 5.12, but if youre fists are small its desparate...
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weirdoclimer
Deleted
Nov 6, 2007, 3:16 AM
Post #30 of 97
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m-earle
Nov 6, 2007, 3:30 AM
Post #31 of 97
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"The Crack Whore and New World Order are nice desert problems if you like OW boulders...."
Where are they at?
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petsfed
Nov 6, 2007, 8:24 PM
Post #32 of 97
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m-earle wrote: "The Crack Whore and New World Order are nice desert problems if you like OW boulders...." Where are they at?
The Desert, somewhere. I'll ask Justin, next time I see him.
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iamthewallress
Nov 6, 2007, 8:31 PM
Post #33 of 97
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petsfed wrote: I'm but a mediocre crack climber with an information addiction.
That would be a great line to steal for a signature. ;-)
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iamthewallress
Nov 6, 2007, 8:33 PM
Post #34 of 97
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Space Invaders in Yosemite...wouldn't want to try it unroped though.
edit...wrong name.
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Nov 6, 2007, 8:35 PM)
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xjlx
Nov 6, 2007, 9:01 PM
Post #35 of 97
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thanks for the sweaty hands ... Vedauwoo .. even just reading that makes my hands hurt again .. but I want to go back.. and this "montucky" area atpeaceinbozeman keeps posting pictures of.
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camhead
Nov 6, 2007, 10:06 PM
Post #36 of 97
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ok, i am going to get laughed out of the thread for this one, but here it goes... Enchanted Rock, TX, about 80 miles west of Austin, is an essential stop for any afficianado of crack bouldering. Most of its classic cracks ride the line between highball boulder problem and routes, have terrible landings and topouts that you must not fall from, but have nonetheless been bouldered. Solo, crashpads, or topropes, whatever; they're all fun.
The photos are just what I've found on this site; not super good.
oh, and it's course-grained granite, erratic boulders on a huge dome. Definitely the coolest place in TX (we all know that Hueco is NOT in TX).
in order of difficulty, notables include--
South American Crack: 5.8/ v0- corner
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...66-largest_65159.jpg
Little Feat: 5.9 v0 thin hands splitter
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...11-largest_52715.jpg
Texas Crude: .10a/v0+ hands
Scrambled Egg Sandwich: .10/v1 steep hand flake
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...66-largest_32386.jpg
Top Choice: .10+/v1+ splitter hands and off-fingers
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...51-largest_42031.jpg
High Octane: .11-/v2 offset fingers
False Determination: .11/v2+ thin hands roof to highball offwidth
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...571-largest_4686.jpg
Ding Dongs and Taco Sauce: .11/v3 cupped hands roof to fingers splitter
Piranha Crack: .11+/v3 steep fists to rotten highball slab
Shocker: .12-/v4 mega classic offset fingers, crux at bottom, but still very highball/solo
Skinner Nails: v4 tips seam
Rock Clark: .12b/v5 45 degree offwidth splitter with steep slab landing
Crack of Galore: v7 lowball fingers roof
I don't think that any of these are the "hardest" in the US. but still, someone needs to go out there and getting decent pics of the classics, though.
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mojede
Nov 6, 2007, 10:55 PM
Post #37 of 97
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Tom, I know you haven't forgot about this nemesis, less than a mile away from "Simian" and still unsent ?
(This post was edited by mojede on Nov 6, 2007, 10:56 PM)
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atpeaceinbozeman
Nov 6, 2007, 11:05 PM
Post #38 of 97
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I didn't forget...
I only mentioned 1 problem cause I figured the folks here didn't need the batholith spraydown...I do enough of that with my photos...
Unless y'all wanna see some more Butte goodness...
----------------------
camhead - nice list, looks good out there...
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atpeaceinbozeman
Nov 6, 2007, 11:24 PM
Post #40 of 97
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angry wrote: atpeaceinbozeman wrote: Unless y'all wanna see some more Butt goods... Is this like the Reef girls who keep popping up in community?
good crack problems?!
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tomPR
Nov 6, 2007, 11:34 PM
Post #41 of 97
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mojede wrote: Tom, I know you haven't forgot about this nemesis, less than a mile away from "Simian" and still unsent ? [IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u233/mojede/fruhcrack.jpg[/IMG]
Nice... looks not too bad from this angle (I guess reality is a little different!)
What is it? What are the details etc?
So, I'm guessing from all info so far on this thread - Potter's thing in the Valley is the hardest problem in the US??
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mojede
Nov 7, 2007, 3:21 AM
Post #43 of 97
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tomPR, the details are few because it has only seen a few good attempts. It is a clean tips, two-knuckle to tight shallow hands until the top. Prolly 12 feet high and 12 hard I reckon.
The pic sucks, but it is the only front-angle shot I had of it. The sandy block at the base has eroded away and now the crack became harder because of the sit-start (small pebble=SS) from tight tips.
It will go--Fruh will send soon, as will others.
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sammmy
Nov 7, 2007, 3:36 AM
Post #44 of 97
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Commando Crack, V3
Grandmother Mtn.
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forkliftdaddy
Nov 7, 2007, 3:55 PM
Post #45 of 97
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sammmy wrote: Commando Crack, V3 Grandmother Mtn.
IMHO damn hard for the grade (and I love cracks).
My submission for hard crack problem:
- The Seam, a project at HP40 -- waiting for the right suitor....
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tomPR
Nov 7, 2007, 9:21 PM
Post #46 of 97
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forkliftdaddy wrote: sammmy wrote: Commando Crack, V3 Grandmother Mtn. IMHO damn hard for the grade (and I love cracks). My submission for hard crack problem: - The Seam, a project at HP40 -- waiting for the right suitor....
Where's this? I've googled - but no luck. Any pics? Details?
Anyone have any links to closeup-ish photos of Sasquatch?
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knieveltech
Nov 7, 2007, 9:45 PM
Post #47 of 97
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tomPR wrote: forkliftdaddy wrote: sammmy wrote: Commando Crack, V3 Grandmother Mtn. IMHO damn hard for the grade (and I love cracks). My submission for hard crack problem: - The Seam, a project at HP40 -- waiting for the right suitor.... Where's this? I've googled - but no luck. Any pics? Details? Anyone have any links to closeup-ish photos of Sasquatch?
It's in the middle of a formation on the trail between the chainsaw boulder and piss-clam. Incidentally, if you're planning on crack climbing at grandmother, bring brushes and scuba gear: anything that isn't an "area classic" gets little or no traffic and is thusly overrun with moss and algae, and like all climbing at grandmother, the shit's often soaking wet.
IMHO Ashboro's much better for crack bouldering in NC. There's a MUCH higher concentration of this kind of problem, stuff isn't spread out all over the place, and FTW you don't have to worry about getting Dean Milton's panties in a bunch because there's a non-local in the area. Only catch is you have to fork over for a parking pass, or carpool with someone who has.
Edited to add: Uh...yeah...wrong problem. My bad. Reading comprehension and all that. Carry on.
(This post was edited by knieveltech on Nov 7, 2007, 10:04 PM)
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edl
Nov 8, 2007, 9:00 AM
Post #48 of 97
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Just for the record, The Wormhole really isn't that bad, pretty honest for Vedauwoo standards. The one I sandbagged bad on purpose is Simiantics, though if you have big fists then you might think it's only kinda hard for 5.11. It straddles the line between fists and offwidth. I would love to see some small handed folk send it. The Vedaujuicer is a low-ball, but the beauty in that line is being a really hard jam crack, and IMO it's harder than Equilibrium, which is another jam crack. On the Vedaujuicer I think that if you are dabbing your not sending anyway, it's that type of climb. Monsters is also a low ball, but once again the beauty is in the challenge, and in the quality of the crack itself. There is also a brutal one move sit start to the problem La Ventana Del Sol (in the newest bouldering guide) which is a fun little test of power involving a long pull off a tips lock on a 45 degree overhanging 45 degree right leaning splitter. Probably V8 or so.
On a different note, the 420 crack is said to climb more like a face problem and less like a crack, but I don't really know as I have never been on it. If you head out here to do it, shoot me an e-mail because I would love to get on it. You need pads+spotters or skill+balls. There is also a beautiful 45 degree overhanging tips crack up at the Gandalf area also in The Poudre. It's called Pats Crack (V9/10) and I'm pretty sure the only person to have done it is Geoff Sleuter. The crux is definitely jamming, and though it is only two hard moves it is quite brutal.
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edl
Nov 8, 2007, 9:05 AM
Post #49 of 97
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Oh yea, there is also The Red Snapper. This was originally done as a V13 sloper problem by Andy Reather (sick), but it is really a flared and traversing crack problem. If you do it as a crack it is around V8. That one is also in the new guide.
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grimpiperx
Nov 8, 2007, 9:31 AM
Post #50 of 97
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Registered: May 30, 2004
Posts: 330
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Doesn't Matt Birch's Somewhere in Time count? Given V14 by Matt Birch and V13 by Daniel Woods.
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