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gordo
Nov 14, 2007, 11:57 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2005
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We've never been to eRock. My partner will be coming down from OK where we have climbed most all of the time at the Wichitas.
First...how bad will the crowds be? Are there any areas to avoid? Trad, 5.8+ is our choice, but we're not opposed to clipping. I've been looking at Devils Slide...good choice?
Second....do most climbers use the primitive sites?
Third...anyone going to be there that would like to show us around?
Thanks
Gordo
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climbingaggie03
Nov 15, 2007, 12:22 AM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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It looks like it will be crowded, I think that all the front sites are booked so you will have to camp in the primitive sites, or there's a couple of other places to camp. One is lady bird johnson park in fredricksburg, the other is on the road towards llano, but I can't remember the name of it, it's some ranch.
that said, there might not be that many climbers, it's probably alot of scouts and stuff, there will be some climbers (i'll be one of them) but I've never had too many problems with crowding on routes at E-rock (except in the areas that guides frequent)
I'd say almost all the routes at E-rock are trad even the ones that are protected soley with bolts. I say this because the routes were bolted on lead by hand and so very few bolts are within 10 feet of another bolt and there are some 30 foot runouts (although they're usually not harder than 5.7). The backside is fun, devils slide, cheap wine wall, news wall are all fun. Devils slid and cheap wine have several good routes in the 5.6-5.9 range. News wall has Sweat which is a fun 5.6 crack and Prosweat which is a 5.9 sport route.
Buzzards roost has some good routes too, it's a bit of a walk but the crowds will be less and they are mostly gear routes. Little feat is a fun crack climb, it's 5.9 but protects well. Fear of flying is a 75 foot 5.10 lieback (i'd top rope it) Bush crack is 5.8 or 5.9 and is quality fingers to tips.
I'm not entirely sure of my plans with my partner yet, but we can definitely point you in the direction of some climbs and help you get your bearings. We usually climb in the wichitas too so we can probably share stories. PM me or I'll PM you when I know what our plans will be.
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gordo
Nov 19, 2007, 2:39 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2005
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well, as the time draws near, the weather looks like ass. After a year w/o any Gobies I doubt anything short of a huricane will stop us, but UHHHHH I have being wet and cold
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gordo
Dec 1, 2007, 4:07 AM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2005
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Had a great time at eRock. We did lots of the stufffrom devil's slide to Central wall. Pleasantly surprised by the lack of crowds. It was cool, but that is WAY better than hot in my book.
Started on Mark of the Beast, a pleasant onsite that got us in the mood. Moved right doing varrious routes that looked cool. Just a great day. Ended with our traditional Mexican dinner...can't remember the name of the place in Fredericksburg...but it was really good!!!
One thing that was disapointing. The guide book is really lacking in route info and route location. I'm cool with adventure climbing in the right situation. But in this case we wanted to tackle certain climbs that were listed as classics and really had trouble getting them straight.
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