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boonecountyrocks
Nov 16, 2007, 1:35 AM
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Registered: Nov 16, 2007
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I'm thinking of coming down to enchanted rocks in january. What is the weather like during that time of year, and can anyone recomend some good moderates (trad or sport) on some sunny south facing crags? Any info would be a great help! Thanks!
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shockabuku
Nov 16, 2007, 4:56 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Well, I haven't been to E-rock in a long time (>7yrs.) but the weather can be good that time of year but like anywhere it varies. I seem to recall October and November being the worst months in that part of the country. I've done E-rock in t-shirt and shorts in the January. As far as climbs go, I don't really remember much in the way of specifics or directions. It used to be that you could buy a guidebook at the ranger station/gift shop but I seem to recall the book going out of print - maybe that's been fixed.
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alwaysclimbing07
Nov 16, 2007, 5:32 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2006
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My recomendation, go somewhere else. If your going for trad then thats cool, but the sport at reimers is alot better in my opinion. E rock is neat, but its almost too much walking for not enough climbing. Its a neat place, and i don't regret going there, but i just wouldn't go back.
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texasclimber
Nov 16, 2007, 8:53 PM
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alwaysclimbing07 wrote: My recomendation, go somewhere else. If your going for trad then thats cool, but the sport at reimers is alot better in my opinion. E rock is neat, but its almost too much walking for not enough climbing. Its a neat place, and i don't regret going there, but i just wouldn't go back.
^
^ Agreed. Cool place (from what I remember, only a hand full of those formations exist in the world). For climbing, Reimer or the Green Belt...I prefer Reimers
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shockabuku
Nov 16, 2007, 9:46 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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It all depends on what kind of climbing you want. E-rock is an incredibly beautiful little place with somewhere on the order of a week to a month's worth of full time climbing. Predominantly trad, slabs and meandering cracks. Fairly sharp, large crystal, granite. Very pretty pink color. When the creek is running it's also very nice though spring is better when the Texas wild flowers are out. I might add they have/had the single best primitive toilet I've ever seen. Some kind of Swedish design or something. Virtually no odor and kept clean, too.
If you want to sport climb harder grades and overhanging limestone, go to those other places.
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scruff
Nov 18, 2007, 6:59 AM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2005
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The weather is likely to be fine.
If you are looking for 10s and a few 9s, go to Buzzard's Roost. It gets morning sun and has a bunch of great routes, mostly trad. Pretty much everything can be toproped if you don't want to lead. The Carnivores also get sun and have a few good routes.
If you are looking for easier stuff, most of what I can think of isn't very sunny. Sweat on the backside is a great 5.7 trad route, the triple cracks have good 8s through 10s, and linking jacknife to cave crack is a cool pseudo-multipitch moderate.
Sean O'Grady's guidebook does a decent job of getting you pointed in the right direction. It is at the bottom of http://www.erockonline.com/guidebooks.htm. I just noticed that they finally fixed the worst problem with the book: that page has a link to an updated topo of the back side of main dome.
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8flood8
Nov 18, 2007, 1:56 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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...nothing to climb? dude boulders v7 and cant find anything to climb at erock?
there is more than a months worth of climbing there.
there are hard sport slabs in the 12's there is a 13 out there. tons of hard ass boulder problems and
crack climbing that will turn you white.
weather is questionable. it could be 28 degrees it could be 50. it could be raining. check the 10day forecast before you make a long haul. but if you are in this neck of the woods and taking a long ass road trip (if the weather turns) you can always head to heuco tanks or el potrero chico. My phone number is on my profile, give me a buzz i've got a full rack and i'm still exploring E-rock. There are are a few lines i'd still love to tangle with and i have both of the guidebooks.
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