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loren
Oct 16, 2002, 6:26 PM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
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I am new to trad and am not really cofortable at setting up belay anchors. Does anybody have any advice or know somewhere to point me towards some advice? I have read what Freedom Of The Fills has to say. I would like something more extensive. Thanks
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stevematthys
Oct 16, 2002, 6:30 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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go out to your local crag and practice placing anchors on the ground. find someone there that has experience and ask them if the anchor looks good. most people are nice and will probably give you some tips and tell you if it looks right.
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winkwinklambonini
Oct 16, 2002, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
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remembert S.R.E.N.
Solid
Redundant
Equelized
Non-Extentable
At least three trad pieces, bottom being multidirectional, or seperate upward.
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azrocklizard
Oct 16, 2002, 6:54 PM
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Registered: Oct 2, 2002
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If you are looking for more extensive info on building anchors you should look in Climbing Anchors...it's a Falcon guide. I think I have the name right, it's been a while since I've seen that book. However, the best way to get to know anchors is to find somebody that knows them and have them show you.
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 16, 2002, 7:19 PM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2002
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As has been said already, practice placing gear and setting up anchors on the ground before you try it on a climb. It's really not terribly difficult to learn the basics, just make sure you feel comfortable before casting off on that first lead. And I would certainly recommend leading a bunch of easy routes well under your maximum ability to get plenty of practice placing pro and building anchors on the rock before pushing your limits. And as someone else mentioned, John Long's "Climbing Anchors" book is an excellent easy-to-follow guide to the basics of trad gear placement and anchor setups.
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mountainmonkey
Oct 16, 2002, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2002
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Climbing Anchors and More Climbing Anchors are the best books I have found on setting anchors. Worthwhile to every climber.
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