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outdoors
Feb 2, 2008, 5:56 PM
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what are the best all around climbing shoe brand for a beginner
(This post was edited by outdoors on Feb 2, 2008, 7:31 PM)
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ja1484
Feb 2, 2008, 6:11 PM
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SEARCH.
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wordless_chorus
Feb 2, 2008, 6:13 PM
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mad rock - cheap and solid
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Hennessey
Feb 2, 2008, 6:53 PM
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I wonder what size shoe Beast would be?
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mistajman
Feb 2, 2008, 7:08 PM
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A pair that fits comfortably, not tightly. Don't let some salesman talk you into downsizing into discomfort. Also cheap is a good plus, because you wont' have good footwork and will ruin them quickly, but by then you will know a lot more in what you are looking for. Most brands have their pros and cons. I personally like red chili and evolv. But everyone has different needs.
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ja1484
Feb 2, 2008, 8:56 PM
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wordless_chorus wrote: mad rock - cheap and solid
That's a laugh. Solid? I think not.
You want cheap and solid, Evolv.
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styndall
Feb 2, 2008, 11:19 PM
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ja1484 wrote: wordless_chorus wrote: mad rock - cheap and solid That's a laugh. Solid? I think not. You want cheap and solid, Evolv.
Lots of Mad Rock shoes are plenty solid. My Phoenixes are close to four years old and on their third sole. They still work fine.
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ja1484
Feb 2, 2008, 11:36 PM
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I doubt they'd stand up to a couple hundred meters of jamming in granite cracks. In fact, I can personally say they won't from firsthand experience.
I have a pair of their new Mugens, and even though they're ugly as sin, they're incredibly comfortable and I love them and keep them around for slab and sport/bouldering.
That said, I've had 2 pairs of mad rocks and they just can't take a thrashing. 1 blew a rand within a few months, the others started de-lamming as soon as they were exposed to trad duty. They're in line for a re-sole now, because I refuse to lose a pair of shoes this comfortable before I absolutely must.
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miavzero
Feb 3, 2008, 12:41 AM
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mistajman wrote: A pair that fits comfortably, not tightly. Don't let some salesman talk you into downsizing into discomfort. Also cheap is a good plus, because you wont' have good footwork and will ruin them quickly, but by then you will know a lot more in what you are looking for. Most brands have their pros and cons. I personally like red chili and evolv. But everyone has different needs.
Very good advice. Try the madrock outlet for areally cheap pair of shoes.
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/outlet.aspx
The Phoenix or the Frenzy is probably a good beginner shoe.
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hosh
Feb 3, 2008, 1:35 AM
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Madrock shoes suck so hard. I would rather drink my body weight in bleach than wear those shoes. Of all the madrock shoes I've ever seen/used, all of them were terrible. Evolv, on the other hand, is possibly the best company in the buisness. I don't know what's going on with 5.10, as people keep leaving the brand to start new companes... I'd say get Evolv shoes, they last forever and are sick shoes.
hosh.
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miavzero
Feb 3, 2008, 2:09 AM
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hosh wrote: Madrock shoes suck so hard. I would rather drink my body weight in bleach than wear those shoes...
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JohnCook
Feb 3, 2008, 2:15 AM
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Red Chilli impact zone, $69 from REI and elsewhere. I love jamming and they last. They are comfortable, and have enough longitudinal flexibility for friction slabs, and enough transverse regidity for edging. They have a good shape, wear well and are comfortable. They have a padded heel for short wlks and hard landings. They will stretch half to one shoe size so buy them a bit small. They do have a lot of take up on the velcro straps. Their only problem, the straps are too long after they have been used for a bit.
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MonkeyInTraining
Feb 3, 2008, 3:02 AM
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I look for a climbing shoe with a sole that is shaped like my foot. In my case I look for brands or models that have a wide front because I have wide feet at the knuckles. Evolve are great shoes but too narrow for me, some sportiva models fit ok. I am still looking for the right match though.
I feel that if the sole of the shoe and my foot have matching edges I can wear it tighter and apply more body weight to the edge with better feel. Just my opinion though I'm sure others go about it differently.
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jermanimal
Feb 3, 2008, 3:04 AM
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Not what brand, what shoe.
5.10 - Coyote, best beginner...will stretch nicely making it comfortable. A forgiving first shoe that will keep you climbing and not bitching about your feet. Get small they will stretch 1 size.
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Hennessey
Feb 3, 2008, 3:09 AM
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Evolv Defy are an awesome stater pair. They are pretty cheap and very durable. You can wear them all day long without much discomfort.
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redsox5945
Feb 3, 2008, 4:31 AM
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It really depends on your feet. I love my Mad Rock Flashes, but they hurt my feet like all hell.
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outdoors
Feb 3, 2008, 5:59 PM
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ill look at some evolv shoes and check out that 5.10
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mheyman
Feb 3, 2008, 6:28 PM
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A couple of decent shoes at great prices from a top climbing shoe manufacturer though a reliable retailer:
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=39198951&memberId=12500226
http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=39288150&memberId=12500226:
The catch onlne is that you have to get the right size. Bracket and order three pairs. Return the ones that you don't keep.
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socalclimber
Feb 3, 2008, 6:42 PM
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"mad rock - cheap and solid "
It sounds like you're fairly new to all this. Madrock is garbage. Also, don't waste your money on expensive shoes. 5.10 makes a shoe called the Coyote. Cheap, fairly durable, and will do you well for the time being.
Over the last 15 years, I've owned just about every shoe you can think of. I've spent (read wasted) alot of money. I've bought the most expensive, I've bought the least expensive. I now pretty much stick to the cheapo's as long as they have Stealth rubber.
Your call. But I would avoid Madrock at all costs. I live in Josh and know everyone at Nomad Ventures. They constantly get complaints about Madrock gear.
Don't worry yourself over "High Performance" shoes. Worry about your skills and foot work.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Feb 3, 2008, 6:45 PM)
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outdoors
Feb 3, 2008, 7:09 PM
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how much does the coyote stretch
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jermanimal
Feb 3, 2008, 7:21 PM
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outdoors wrote: how much does the coyote stretch
1 size...1/2 size in about 3 hours, another 6 and full 1 size. They don't have a ton of rubber in the toe, so they are really comfortable for a first shoe. Not all shoes are this forgiving in sizing because they will not stretch in the toe like these do.
The evolve defy, are another great beginner, but they will not stretch much...you could debate all day long if that is better to not for a beginner, at least you would know if they really hurt after 15 min on your feet at the store...they will still hurt a month later.
If the coyotes hurt at the store, they will be pretty comfy later on.
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socalclimber
Feb 3, 2008, 7:47 PM
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Interesting. My main partner has been climbing in these for nearly 3 months and has not complained or even mentioned stretch in these. This does not mean they don't stretch. He tends to buys really tight sizes and lets nature do the rest. My guess is the above advice about their stretch is correct. So don't buy them too comfortable.
Buy something like the evolvs or the 5.10's. Wasting money on high end shoes is just that, a waste.
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gobennyjo
Feb 3, 2008, 8:01 PM
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I bought a pair of size 12 Coyotes and I wear 14 1/2 shoes. I could not say how much they have streched but they are pretty comfortable now.
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theShiba
Feb 4, 2008, 6:20 AM
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I hope it doesn't stretch that much... I wear an 11, and I have an 11 in the 5.10 Coyote. I tried on a 10.5 in the store, and it was unbearably painful. Like, my toes were fully curled to the point where I couldn't even walk. 11's were tight, but what I would consider a decently tight fit...
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