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cracklover
Feb 23, 2008, 6:53 AM
Post #20201 of 22774
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Goals? Hmm... I'd like to climb that piece of rock on the right in this photo. No rainbow required.
And while I'm there, maybe work some pretty lines, like:
and
God, I love crack.
(Castleton, Scarface, and King Cat fyi)
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Feb 23, 2008, 6:59 AM)
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nurocks
Feb 23, 2008, 1:29 PM
Post #20202 of 22774
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Ok Rob...
The same friend who's batchelor party is killing this weekend is getting married next weekend and will probably kill my chances of FUG'n I might be able to be an early bird, but I'll def. have to bail before Jake gets out of bed( if he's comming...I know how he likes the quaries).
I'll keep y'all posted. I'm jealous of anyone who is climbing OUTSIDE today.
Later,
Jason
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c4c
Feb 23, 2008, 1:43 PM
Post #20204 of 22774
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orangekyak wrote: Here's some fun ... who wants to spray about their favorite route from last season, and publicly state a goal or two for this season? I do, so I'll start. Had a great time on Something Interesting. Not exactly a major conquest, but a route that I've wanted to get on for years. It was a blast and Amanda followed smoothly. This season ... lead a pitch or more of 5.9 in the valley is one goal ... get back into 5.9 at the Gunks ... have a few great days at Cathedral this summer ... get back to TWall next December
favorites from last season: Lots of great memories including Rumney Ruckus and Fall foliage climbs, Maine w/ notch, Slabby ADK FA w/ gunkie mike, Gunks w/ Jclimbs, tons of new ADK bouldering, getting schooled on gamemanship at poko, week in Utah etc.
Goal for 2008 -be a solid 5.9 climber.
I love ice but, I am ready to Rock!
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epoch
Moderator
Feb 23, 2008, 1:52 PM
Post #20205 of 22774
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wonderwoman wrote: What the fug is FUG again? Have an awesome time in Yosemite! We have to take our climbing trip in July to sync with Dakotah's summer camp. July climbing destination recommendations, anyone?
You should give a call and get a reservation in for Mt Whitney. It's the best 5.8 climbing you'll ever do. Do some research as there are plenty of routes that could easily take up a week of your time. Also, if you're planning on taking a few weeks, head to Toulomne before so that you can get acclimated to the elevation. I had a total blast this summer up there. And because of the quota system that is in place it does not get crowded up (Pay attention here:) the NORTH FORK trail.
my .02.
Mt Whitney(r) and Keeler Needle(l)
and nearby Mt Russell:
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losbill
Feb 23, 2008, 2:03 PM
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Jake - I assume, perhaps erroneously, the .11 - .12 climbs are at Rumney not trad at the Gunks!!!
GO is that The Priest? Beautiful pic! Did you take it?
Alan you are in for RecomBeast. You have your pick of pitches except for the last one. That's mine. Also no climbing or sleeping on the ground for you the day before the climb!!!! It would be a real pain for me to attempt to rope solo that puppy!
Todd, I like your style! The rest of us heathens cite fave climbs, you list partners.
Thinking about not the fave route but the fave climbing outing; it was a weekend with Rachel and "Bite Me" Ray at the Gunks. The weather was very strange, as Jen and Alison can attest. The first 30 feet of every climb was soaking wet but above was dry. Spent the weekend scarily skating up 5.6/5.7 starts. Had a blast nevertheless due to the fun had with my erstwhile companions!
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c4c
Feb 23, 2008, 2:56 PM
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Bill, partners/community is what makes a great day climbing for me, not purple pointing some uber hard route.
I was so impressed with the job Alan did at the ruckus that we are planning a ADK southern rock festival for the weekend after labor day. We would love to have all of you guys make the trip. It will be like the Ruckus --community and climbing with no commercialization.
-Todd
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robbovius
Feb 23, 2008, 3:01 PM
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jammer wrote: robbovius wrote: jammer wrote: Yaaawwwwnnnnnn! Guess it's time to come out of retirement! How's everyone been? Springs around the corner. What's everyone planning? LOL! wake up you slacker! I got me an expedition planned ot Mnt webstah in crawford notch, sometime late june or early July spend a day summiting, camp in the WMNF just over the summit, spend a second day climbing the upper headwalls/gulleys, spend the third day chilling and decending. c'mon weathar! * Rubs Eyes * Tell more about Webstah! Sounds like a good time ...
Jammer, check out MCT page 814, there's a more detailed description with some pictures. the face-on view of mnt webstah makes it seem much steeper than it really is. the central gulley slabs are generally as steep as P2, the quartz pocket variation of standard route, and P3 of Dike Route on white horse, if you're familiar with those.
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robbovius
Feb 23, 2008, 3:10 PM
Post #20209 of 22774
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nurocks wrote: Ok Rob... The same friend who's batchelor party is killing this weekend is getting married next weekend and will probably kill my chances of FUG'n I might be able to be an early bird, but I'll def. have to bail before Jake gets out of bed( if he's comming...I know how he likes the quaries). I'll keep y'all posted. I'm jealous of anyone who is climbing OUTSIDE today. Later, Jason
dude, show up when adn if you can, no pressie.
as we'd talked about, I'm going to go there as often as I can for training and headspace, so if you don't make it 3/1, there's always 3/8, 3/15, etc y'know?
I've got Ice tools and Crampons on the way, though I doubt I'll have it all by FUG 6, and I gotta take the crampons out and shop for some boots. the little flow on the A wall is likely gonna get a serious look over from me. we've seen ice climbers on that before. I'm actually happy it snowed so much, I'm hoping that the snow melts and freezes and brings that flow in real nice before the warming and thawing starts in late march
it's not big ice, but it'd be enough to have a n00bish go on TR, y'know?
(This post was edited by robbovius on Feb 23, 2008, 3:12 PM)
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jakedatc
Feb 23, 2008, 3:19 PM
Post #20210 of 22774
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Bill you are correct. Though Trashcan Overhang looks fun at the gunks it's .11a?
.11: 100% columbian, Black Mamba
.12 Things as they are now, perhaps Pretzel Logic, Luau , Pump up the volume
some other random things i'm sure.
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losbill
Feb 23, 2008, 4:14 PM
Post #20211 of 22774
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Jake --- Don't know about the other .12's you mention, but if memory serves me correctly you have already pretty much worked through all the crux moves on TATAN but the last one. Once again relying on my questionable memory I believe it was at the end of a pretty long day when you were already pretty trashed. Seems like that one at least might be "in the bag".
In the new Gray Dick, Williams rates "Trashcan Overhang" at 5.11a PG. He has restored its forgotten name of Hudson's Boulder Problem (FA TR 1965 John Hudson, FFA is unknown)
Todd -- re: ADK South Rock Out, I'm there. Ed, old ADK climber he is, will very likely be in attendance as well.
bill
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jakedatc
Feb 23, 2008, 5:06 PM
Post #20212 of 22774
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Yea bill.. i've put a bunch of burns in on Things it should go down.. i just need to fit it all together one time. the other's i have not been on yet luau was recommended at waimea and Pretzel logic just looks fun and bouldery on the far left side of Bonsai
i'd love to follow Trashcan once before trying to lead it but i don't know if i'd find any volunteers here(anyone?). I think a direct TR would be sketch due to the traverse (http://youtube.com/watch?v=sZBNC1QghRc)
Todd my secret squirrel beta to Gamesmanship is to ignore all crack climbing "technique" and use face holds and layback the crack :) Mind you my beta got me lashes with the rope as grant's yelling "get in the foookin' crack ya damn sport climber!" I found the 5.7 double crack pitch near the top to be the hardest (to layback)
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jammer
Feb 23, 2008, 6:33 PM
Post #20213 of 22774
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Count me in! Let us know more of the details when you can.
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losbill
Feb 23, 2008, 8:46 PM
Post #20215 of 22774
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Alan -- The flake is called the Beast Flake thus the Recompense variation that goes up the Beast Flake is called RecomBeast.
Greg -- All of Dark Shadows???? Do you mean lead all of the first four trade route pitches??
Or, do you mean climb the 19?+ pitches above those four and take on what I'm sure would be a 48 hour descent???
Or, get really crazy and do all 23?+ pitches and then rap down???? (Count me out of that adventure!!!)
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robbovius
Feb 23, 2008, 10:08 PM
Post #20216 of 22774
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jammer wrote: Count me in! Let us know more of the details when you can.
Jammer that's great, so far Wideguy and Exostratics are up for it, and I'm leaning on nurocks to join in too.
we should defeinitely have enough people to carry all the gear.
potential time frame is the last couple weeks of june/first couple weeks of july. weekdays okay for you?
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Gmburns2000
Feb 23, 2008, 10:52 PM
Post #20217 of 22774
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jakedatc wrote: Todd my secret squirrel beta to Gamesmanship is to ignore all crack climbing "technique" and use face holds and layback the crack :) Mind you my beta got me lashes with the rope as grant's yelling "get in the foookin' crack ya damn sport climber!" I found the 5.7 double crack pitch near the top to be the hardest (to layback)
Couldn't agree more. Gamesmanship is not a crack climb except for the double at the top, which is, I think, harder in terms of awkwardness than the bottom. I actually climbed it all the way through the dirty gully to the top of the slab and ran out of rope on the slab itself.
My suggestion is to note that the old birch that the book references is not there anymore. Unless you're climbing with a 70m rope, don't climb the slab as an end to a pitch. Do it in a pitch on its own, even though it looks short.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 23, 2008, 10:56 PM
Post #20218 of 22774
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losbill wrote: Greg -- All of Dark Shadows???? Do you mean lead all of the first four trade route pitches?? Or, do you mean climb the 19?+ pitches above those four and take on what I'm sure would be a 48 hour descent??? Or, get really crazy and do all 23?+ pitches and then rap down???? (Count me out of that adventure!!!)
Bill - I'm talking the whole thing. Already did the first four. I know the descent is scary, and I'm not sure if it is worth it, but I'd love to get that kind of experience under my belt. I really have to think about it, though. I do understand the risks. It may not be worth it.
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jakedatc
Feb 24, 2008, 12:38 AM
Post #20219 of 22774
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yea.. we stopped before the top and did that last slab by itself to the trees.. there is a nice belay spot right before it so you might as well use it.
might go play on the basement wall for a bit since i didn't do any climbing this week
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jammer
Feb 24, 2008, 1:35 AM
Post #20221 of 22774
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Weekends are fine. Carry all the gear? Just what kind of mule are we gonna be??? How much gear are you talking about?
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shear
Feb 24, 2008, 12:23 PM
Post #20222 of 22774
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a crew of us are going route climbing at farley at 9am.....OW! should be awesome fun!
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losbill
Feb 24, 2008, 1:59 PM
Post #20223 of 22774
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Greg -- from my reply it's clear I have thought of doing "all" of Dark Shadows as well. When I climb something I like to get to "the top". However I learned very quickly that at Red Rocks the crux of many climbs is likely to be the descent!!! For me the 20+ pitches of climbing would not be the issue, it would be the getting down. That said as long as I had a two-day bivy permit (I think I could do it in less than 24 hours car-to-car, but just in case the descent really turns into an epic), plenty of extra batteries for the headlamp and a calm, patient partner I'm good to go. Now if I only had the scratch for a plane ticket!
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robbovius
Feb 24, 2008, 6:36 PM
Post #20224 of 22774
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jammer wrote: Weekends are fine. Carry all the gear? Just what kind of mule are we gonna be??? How much gear are you talking about?
;-)
no man, sicne I'd rope-soloed 4 pitches of the central gulley slabs last nov, I was considering doing the mnt webstah expi as a rope solo trip, but humping food, water, tent, bag, as well as two ropeS (to cover the decsent raps) and my trad rack, up the approach - which is rather stout in itself, 1/4 mile thru the woods about, and then another 1/4 mile up a low angle rockslide, I was thinking that it'd be easier for everybody if that load was shared. "many hands make light work"
y'know? ;-)
last nov I humped 40 lbs up that approach...it was kinda strenuous ;-/
shear wrote: a crew of us are going route climbing at farley at 9am.....OW! should be awesome fun!
shear you've got great weather! report back, man.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Feb 24, 2008, 6:38 PM)
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shear
Feb 24, 2008, 11:17 PM
Post #20225 of 22774
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well...just woke up from a 2 hour nap. thats how much fun today was.
warmed up on a classic 5.9, eyeopener....most of the juggy holds had snow in them, so i did my civic duty and cleaned as i "warmed up". needless to say, i was not warmed up.
then got on the a really cool route, the beach, which was baking in the sun and proceeded to do it 4x just out of excitement in being on real rock. then moved around the corner to the classic, bandwagon. and did that a handful of times as as well. warmed down on the long slabby lady buggery.
a handful of the routes had ice at the top, at the chains, hence the lapping of routes. an amazing day just to be outside baking in the sun climbing. now i will get ready and go to the silent auction benefiting farley and drink beer and eat food.
based on the weather this week. all looks good!!!!!
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