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truello
Feb 20, 2008, 2:11 PM
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Miguel's is opening this Friday so there will probably start to be a lot more people going down. Hopefully that includes myself.
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mountainman
Feb 20, 2008, 2:11 PM
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Nice pics. Looks cold. November was the best month I ever had in JTree.
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truello
Feb 25, 2008, 10:24 PM
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Has anyone talked to victor? I need to get hold of him.
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microbarn
Feb 25, 2008, 10:48 PM
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truello wrote: Has anyone talked to victor? I need to get hold of him.
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charley
Feb 25, 2008, 11:29 PM
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I am now stuck down here in north carolina. I went bouldering at rumbling bald and today went up and did an easy mixed bolt and trad route. Had a fun day. Met some climbers that have had there pics in guide books. It has felt so good and relaxing to get out on some rock in the sunshine. Drinking beer with friends hasn't been bad either. The weather is sposed to suck the nexst cpl days and there is snow storm warnings up in the mountains. I'll just chill for a cpl days.
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microbarn
Feb 26, 2008, 1:22 AM
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charley wrote: I am now stuck down here in north carolina. I went bouldering at rumbling bald and today went up and did an easy mixed bolt and trad route. Had a fun day. Met some climbers that have had there pics in guide books. It has felt so good and relaxing to get out on some rock in the sunshine. Drinking beer with friends hasn't been bad either. The weather is sposed to suck the nexst cpl days and there is snow storm warnings up in the mountains. I'll just chill for a cpl days.
Sounds like a great trip already, and you haven't even been there very long.
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thrill_seeker
Feb 27, 2008, 11:20 PM
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yeah must be nice to be stuck down there...doing some climbing i wish it was warm enough to go climbing here in PA. I can't wait till summer time to get back on the rocks.
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truello
Feb 28, 2008, 12:34 AM
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Why wait 'til summer when March is around the corner??
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cilohabmilc
Mar 3, 2008, 1:35 AM
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Well, march has arrived... anyone interested in a kick-off-the-season BBQ? any ideas when and where an event such as this could happen?
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microbarn
Mar 3, 2008, 2:04 AM
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Sounds like a fun idea. We could do it at McConnell's Mill or Cooper's Rock. Charley would have to chime in on the possibility of the Mill. I am not 100% that there are good locations in the Mill to do both climbing and BBQing.
(This post was edited by microbarn on Mar 3, 2008, 2:06 AM)
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truello
Mar 3, 2008, 3:08 AM
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Depending on the date obviously, count me in.
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thewyseclimber
Mar 3, 2008, 4:32 AM
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Everyone missed out on some perfect days at NRG this weekend. dvs and I had some gorgeous days on what dry routes there were. it was my first time to endless wall. best crag around.
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microbarn
Mar 3, 2008, 12:14 PM
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thewyseclimber wrote: Everyone missed out on some perfect days at NRG this weekend. dvs and I had some gorgeous days on what dry routes there were. it was my first time to endless wall. best crag around.
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mewood7
Mar 3, 2008, 2:52 PM
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I live in Lexington (about 45 minutes from rrg) and go to the University of Kentucky, let me just say that the weather is perfect for a few days at the red! about 60 degrees and sunny...I'm stuck in class for the next few days, but then it's spring break baby! I'm calling for quite a crowd climbing next week! Miguel's should be busy, but so great.
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thewyseclimber
Mar 4, 2008, 4:52 AM
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microbarn wrote: haha, I would have guess the weather was way too cold. I actually got some great skiing in. I am glad you proved me wrong.
We were skeptical at first also, with the near whiteout around Morgantown, but it turned out to be 50 with sun at the Lake, and then 65 and sun at Endless. As perfect as perfect can be, in my book.
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mountainman
Mar 4, 2008, 1:02 PM
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I drove to Rochester, NY Friday, snowy roads all the way. We had a fabulous weekend of ice climbing in the Finger Lakes. Came home Sunday night. Five hours.
I've washed all my winter stuff and I'm putting it all away. Ice season is over. I'm going to climb with all of you this year.
There's a picnic table right along the road where the climbs are at the Mills. This would be beautiful.
Lane- count me in on those trips to the New. That's paradise.
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dvs
Mar 5, 2008, 3:12 PM
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Thanks! I will email the guy, as I am sure i will be headed to the Red sometime in April.
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mountainman
Mar 5, 2008, 9:47 PM
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Finger Lake ice refers to an enormous chunk of Western New York State. Scoured by waves of glaciation, the lakes are deep and surrounded by steep hills. Numerous streams have formed ravines flowing into the lakes, and the region is famous for waterfalls, as the streams flow over a resistant band of rock on their way to the lakes. The falls can be as high as 150’!
This was my second trip to climb ice there; the last was in February 2007. This time, we tried to do it in early February, but a big thaw ruined our plans. Now a late week of very cold weather in Rochester, NY made it possible at the last minute.
The plan was for me to leave late Friday night after a charity wine tasting for Annie’s lacrosse team. As the forecast was for snow Friday, this caused me increasing worry. We decided I would skip the fete and leave noon Friday. However, a furious snowstorm made the who drive up through Erie a snowy slippery mess. The roads were better in New York, and I made to Adam’s house around dark.
We went to his friend’s house to check out the Nintendo Wii, and it is addicting. It’s the first controller that reads your body movement. It’s absolutely amazing, and the hot new thing.
So, we got up at 5:30 on Saturday, drove to Lawrence’s house to get his ice screws, backtracked to the Interstate and drove an hour to a State Park. The idea was to get there early before the rangers, as they forbid hiking into the upper gorge due to the icy conditions. Exactly! The footing was treacherous; before crossing the stream we put on our crampons. Across the stream there was an 80’ piece of ice, with about 50’ that was straight up. He did a tough lead, and I found it very tough to follow. We rapped off, then explored up the gorge. Nothing else big was in, so we soled up the side of a 30’ falls, and headed out.
Just around the corner there was another waterfall he’d read about in a book, so we parked at the campground and went exploring. We dropped into the stream bed, and worked our way upstream. The stream was pretty big, and it was difficult to find a safe way to go. He traversed along the edge of the bank, and gestured for me to follow. It was delicate, walking along an icy bench, holding on to crumbling shale. Despite my bulky and heavy pack, I made it across and was reaching for a small tree and safety when the ice broke beneath me. I ended up lying back on my pack on the ice, with my legs in the stream to my knees. When I tried to get up, I went in the water to my waist, then to my neck. It was too deep to stand. My pack was full of water, there was nothing to hold onto, and the rushing water tried to pull me under the ice.
The cold sapped my strength by the second, and I was quickly losing my ability to function. Adam was asking frantically what could he do, and finally gave me one of his ice axes, but I couldn’t stick it. He buried the pick in the ice, but I couldn’t get out with the pack. He grabbed the strap, I slid out of it, and the next instant I grabbed the ax with both hands and was out. I was already very cold and my hands were numb. I put the pack back on and headed for the Jeep. I was lucky that I’d brought my goretex shell for possible wet conditions, and I had dry socks and gloves. I took off everything in the stiff breeze, started the car and warmed up.
I felt so bad that I’d ruined our day. Everything was soaked with icy water: the rope, my boots, all my clothes. I didn’t see how we could do any climbing. We drove to another climb anyway, as it was too early to quit. We parked along a side road. I found some heavy garbage sacks in the Jeep, and cut a foot off of each and wrapped my foot in them before putting on my boots. That was genius. It felt weird to wear my goretex shell with nothing under it, and it was kind of cold standing around, but the hike in and the climb warmed me up. The falls was as spectacular as ever, and by the time we hiked out, it was time to go.
We were far from Rochester, and the blowing wind had caused drifts across the roads, demanding caution. We took back roads all the way, and I started to understand the layout. As soon as we got in I put my mass of wet clothes in their dryer. The rope and my boots never dried, but everything was OK. I was extremely tired, and had a wonderful night’s sleep.
Another 5:30 start got us to Lawrence’s, where we shuttled down to the lovely home of the famous grape pies. We hiked into the falls, a monster 150’ waterfall. Lawrence did an incredible lead; it may be the hardest ice climb I’ve ever done. Taking out three screws while traversing up and right was such a strain, that the easy end was most welcome. I still collapsed for several minutes at the top. We walked over a short distance, and tied two ropes together for the rappel. We had rapped down another falls, which didn’t look climbable, but since we had a top rope, we both got up it. Hiking around to get our packs and hiking out was pretty tiring.
We then drove a short distance and parked behind some maintenance buildings; The creek was right there. The sun came out, and it was completely isolated and incredibly beautiful. We soloed up some short walls and finally came to a big wall on the right. It was declared the last ice climb of the year, and it was sweet beyond the telling. On the long walk out, just after rapping the waterfall, I broke through the ice and pitched forward. When I got up one crampon was gone. We searched for an hour, and broke out a huge area of ice, but never found it.
When we got back to his house, I showered, packed up, and was home by 12:30 AM. Dry roads all the way.
I replaced my drowned camera for only $74.00, and Grivel sold me a pair of demos for $120.00. I had such a great time. If only my words could do it justice.
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truello
Mar 5, 2008, 9:52 PM
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You have some awesome stories, especially since I've never ice climbed nor witnessed it. Did you happen to salvage any pictures from the camera? I'd love to see some of the waterfalls.
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microbarn
Mar 5, 2008, 10:06 PM
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your words do a pretty good job of conveying the trip
thanks again for sharing
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thewyseclimber
Mar 7, 2008, 5:09 AM
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The folks at Waterstone in Fayetteville said you better register early, too. If you're at all thinking of going, plunk down the small bills, and plan ahead now.
Edited to add:
Also, if anyone is interested, the Banff Mountain Film Festival is coming to Pittsburgh April 4 and 5. There are opportunities for free tickets if you are available to volunteer. http://www.ventureoutdoors.org/ I had a chance to preview many of the films, and they seem decent, some more so.
(This post was edited by thewyseclimber on Mar 7, 2008, 5:12 AM)
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truello
Mar 7, 2008, 12:25 PM
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I was hesitant to pay the $25 up front incase I had to back out but I guess the worst thing that happens is that the New gets an extra $25 for rebolting, which isn't so bad  . I am leaving for NC today so it will have to wait until next week. They won't sell 700 tickets in 2 weeks will they?
Looking Glass will be very different from what I'm used to, but will be fun to at least get on some rock.
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truello
Mar 12, 2008, 5:07 PM
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Got home from Looking Glass yesterday. Overall the drive was about 8 hours. We had pretty good weather although it was hitting both extremes -- as high as 60 during the day and 22 at night. The temperatures dropped almost instantly as soon as the sun dipped behind the mountains. We experienced that the first night of climbing because we didn't finish the route until after dark and my [non-dry] rope froze up (some water started dripping down from the top while we were climbing). Made for a very cold rappel.
The rest of the trip was spent honing my slab and eyebrow skills. I hadn't done much slab climbing before so it took a day or two to trust the feet, but by the end of the trip it was smooth sailing up the eyebrows.
We found out the hard way that the South facing wall at Looking Glass really seeps for a couple of days after the rain, leaving only a couple of options. Saturday and Sunday were beautiful days but only a couple of routes were climbable. We got on Second Coming (two pitches, 5.7) and Gemini Crack (combined two pitches into one, 5.8+).
We waited until Monday to try out The Nose (four pitch 5.8) because we had read about the long lines that can form to get on it, and being that we're relatively new to multipitch -- we're still pretty slow and didn't want to hold up people. We ended up only seeing two other people the entire day, a father and son who've done The Nose before and opted for Sundial Crack right beside it. It was every bit as classic as rated and the weather was perfect once the sun hit the west-facing wall. I even got a little sunburn on my nose  .
Beau and his friend are still down there... I unfortunately don't have a "spring break" and had to return to work 
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