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bizarrodrinker
May 1, 2008, 4:16 PM
Post #26 of 41
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Trophy!
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markc
May 1, 2008, 4:27 PM
Post #27 of 41
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happiegrrrl wrote: but, as you climb in the Gunks, I am sure you have seen it with your own eyes.
I haven't had the pleasure of climbing at the Gunks, but I've travelled a little bit. I can't say I've ever seen an unattended rope holding a space in the queue. If I did, I'd kindly step over it and get on the rock. What's next, a ticket-puller and someone calling numbers?
happiegrrrl wrote: I mentioned the point to help out our visitor, so he can avoid potential problems of communication, not to suggest there are "reservations" taken at routes.
I get that, but it's nuts. The proper way to deal with it is to not put up with it.
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happiegrrrl
May 1, 2008, 6:18 PM
Post #28 of 41
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Sorry - I thought you were a different Mark from PA.
Anyway - why not experiment with the getting on a route someone's got a rope flaked out at the base on, and let me know how it goes....(insert whichever emoticon you wish; I'm wavering between the  one, the  one and the one.
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sungam
May 2, 2008, 12:29 AM
Post #29 of 41
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In reply to the passing. Just reminded me of a funny story.
Me and my mate (both a bit shaken from a near triple death run in with some n00bzors from sheffield the day before, long story involving mid pitch passing and a gear ripping fall) were heading up some route on the ben when we got caught up with by a fast climbing catalunian with some fancy axes. at the 2nd belay we let him pass, but we were shocked to see his second coming up with another rope a hangin' behind him! a group of three. Gutted. We had to do this route, pack up camp and walk out with all our bivi kit. we didn't want to be stuck behind a group of 3. thn the third came. WTF?? another rope? 4 people?
in my broken spanish and his broken english we found out they were climbing in a fucking 6. who the fuck climbs in a 6? expecially on such a popular route?
Anyways, we shouted in spanish for them to stop climbing and passed them right then and there.
Just a note but who the fuck would clip someone elses gear?
-MagnuS
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tolman_paul
May 2, 2008, 12:38 AM
Post #30 of 41
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I've climbed as a group of four on the Nutcracker in Yosemite, and was slowed up by the group of two ahead of us.
I never considered passing them, that would have been a goat rope. I just chilled a bit longer at the belays.
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happiegrrrl
May 2, 2008, 12:44 AM
Post #31 of 41
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That's a good story - the climbing version of the clown car in a circus, where a tiny toylike auto pulls ringside and a big ole clown gets out. You can barely believe he fit in the car.... And then another one comes out, and then another and another .
Re: Clipping other's gear - I hear it was a Euro thing...
Now I know you Scotsmen got your own island and all(well, I guess it's a shared thing), but I think the mainlanders(particularly the French) think nothing of clipping someone else's gear as they wiz by, and not only that, but they feel no obligation to be careful about kicking off rocks onto the party they passed. You say it ain't so?
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hafilax
May 2, 2008, 1:18 AM
Post #32 of 41
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Why are Europeans always in so much of a hurry? Jumping the alternating corrals at ski hills and passing or riding asses on climbs.
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rtwilli4
May 2, 2008, 1:11 PM
Post #33 of 41
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dude i didnt read all the bullshit replies, but i read a few and they made me sick.
i have done some climbing in N. Carolina, and besides the weekend crowds, people are relaxed and polite. maybe its just the south. i have the same experience at New River Gorge in W. Virginia, where I learned to climb from some awesome locals.
other than that... climb in Thailand dude!! World class sport, scary trad, and amazingly nice people :)
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blueeyedclimber
May 2, 2008, 2:11 PM
Post #34 of 41
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Climbers are just people. YOu can't expect any better from this population than you can from any other in America. The vast majority of climbers are nice but Occasionally you will run into someone that will piss you off and if you let them get to you will ruin your day.
There are certain etiquettes but some people choose to ignore them. If you want an entire culture that is nice and polite, then like rtwilli4 said, go to THailand.
Josh
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pentapitch
May 4, 2008, 4:21 AM
Post #35 of 41
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
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if you ever truly want to climb in an elevator, go to korea! seriously, the scariest place to climb in the world.
6 people in a group is normal there. 10-12 anchored on two rusted bolts has happened to me.
squamish has a few climbers who won't share ledges or let you pass.
i would say in ten years of multipitch around the world, it's 50/50, people letting you pass or throwing a fit if you want to go by.
i have let really slow climbers go first and paid the price of rapping in the dark. just do your best to be safe and keep your own temper. your really won't change their minds or attitudes.
a little off topic, why is it the europeans are always the loudest, drunkest rudest people in Camp 4???
i've been to many european campgrounds that had bars/discos so maybe the eurotwits think that sort of thing is acceptable at camp 4.
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tradrenn
May 4, 2008, 5:36 AM
Post #36 of 41
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About 2 weeks ago I had to pass this guy on a route, I asked him if he would be cool with it, then I told him that I would be very quick cause it's getting late and my jacket is 3 pitches up. he says OK but, takes about 5 min to get to a safe spot for him, in that time me and my partner get ready and as soon as he said: You can climb now, I started to climb and just went past him but instead of doing just one pitch, I clip the anchor and keep going for a second anchor. He was in the middle of first pitch.
When my partner got to me he said that this guy said: Holy fuck you guys are fast.
The route we did was only 5.9 mixed.
Most people I met in person are cool, some are assholes but that's mostly on internet.
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the_climber
May 5, 2008, 3:25 PM
Post #37 of 41
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tradrenn wrote: Most people I met in person are cool, some are assholes but that's mostly on internet.
Isn't that the truth.
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mheyman
May 5, 2008, 5:06 PM
Post #38 of 41
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I’m was a gumby for a long time and let others pass. But I’ve let parties pass and the got stuck asking myself why I let them go. They weren’t any faster than me!
As to a rope at the base of a climb I look around. If no one is getting ready I ask or start gearing up.
Can I leave my rope at the base the night before to “reserve” that climb and avoid having to get an early start? Give me a break.
Mark from NJ
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sspssp
May 5, 2008, 8:16 PM
Post #39 of 41
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Registered: Jan 2, 2003
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robdotcalm wrote: About two decades ago, an acquaintance of mine from Colorado and a friend got up early to be first on a route at Yosemite. They were both competent and moved reasonably fast. When they were at the first belay, a couple of guys simul-climbing caught up to them. They asked the simul-climbers not to pass them as the route had loose rock. They got passed anyway. A rock fell and hit her in the hands. A rescue ensued. She never climbed again nor sewed, which was her livelihood. Since then, I’ve never let anyone pass me, if I’ve gotten on the route first. Cheers, Rob.calm
I certainly understand the dangers of rockfall and not wanting parties above you. However, I think the issue of passing really comes down to whether it causes the slower party an inconvience (and if it does, whether they are ok with it). Once in Tuolumne on alpinish terrain, my partner and I were simul-climbing and we passed a slower party by climbing 30 feet or so to the side of them. They didn't want us to pass, but I'm not willing to grant them exclusive use of the whole mountain just because they got there first. If you are that worried about rockfall, maybe you shouldn't climb (or not climb in that area).
peace
(This post was edited by sspssp on May 5, 2008, 8:16 PM)
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stymingersfink
May 5, 2008, 9:31 PM
Post #40 of 41
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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sungam wrote: In reply to the passing. Just reminded me of a funny story. Me and my mate (both a bit shaken from a near triple death run in with some n00bzors from sheffield the day before, long story involving mid pitch passing and a gear ripping fall) were heading up some route on the ben when we got caught up with by a fast climbing catalunian with some fancy axes. at the 2nd belay we let him pass, but we were shocked to see his second coming up with another rope a hangin' behind him! a group of three. Gutted. We had to do this route, pack up camp and walk out with all our bivi kit. we didn't want to be stuck behind a group of 3. thn the third came. WTF?? another rope? 4 people? in my broken spanish and his broken english we found out they were climbing in a fucking 6. who the fuck climbs in a 6? expecially on such a popular route? Anyways, we shouted in spanish for them to stop climbing and passed them right then and there.
Just a note but who the fuck would clip someone elses gear? -MagnuS
It would be their rope, tied off and clipped to one of their own pieces.
Curious though... were they simul-climbing (or belayed climbing) separated by full rope-lengths, or tied into the middles? Who the hell would want to climb an ice route with your partner(s) sending chunks down from above?
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xtrmecat
May 5, 2008, 11:18 PM
Post #41 of 41
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
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I've got some multi pitch miles roped solo and the one story that stands out is the Durance route solo 2 years ago. A guided party of 2 came up as I had my P-1 anchor set up and was getting ready to blast. I knew the idiot guiding and he could easily get me killed with his expertise so I asked him to pass. I even offered him my bottom anchor to get em going safely. On the top of P-2 a party of three hit the bottom and saw me and whispered amongst themselves and the leader took off as quick as he could and my line got fixed as he was hitting the first belay and he just kept coming without even looking up, kind of going to muscle on through I suppose. I just went on rap and started to clean the double cracks and he was clipping my gear and when my ass hit his face I let him know I was cleaning on rap and he would be unprotected. He promptly gave his best harumph, and down climbed and it took about 15 seconds to clean and hit my bottom anchor.
His second asked if they may pass and I said well heck yea as I would probably be as fast as a herd of turtles and would they please no step on my gear on P-2 belay. I kept up with them to the direct finish and they even fixed my line on a couple pitches and we had good conversation and as I recall I even hung on my gear as to not crowd them at a belay. They were even grateful for some beta I had when they were about to go off route, so to speak.
Turned out to be some great guys and I sure enjoyed their company, and it could have easily went to fists if I wanted to be an ass. I am not a small man and could easily have turned all Hyde on em but figured the rap into his face was enough to let em know I would not be bullied and a polite question will definitely get a better response than not even asking.
Moral to the story, not all those climbing up your ass are assholes. and not all the assholes in your face are wrong or slow. Communication works, put forth your best manners and see how it works. If some dick kicks off a rock and maims you then I would have been at fault for letting the "Guide" pass.
Just thought you'd like to hear it.
Bob
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