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joeforte
Jun 16, 2008, 2:16 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Hey, I'm looking for some long alpine routes in the dacks. Are there any in the high peaks? We're looking for a lot of vertical, doesn't have to be anything too hard either. Any suggestions?
(This post was edited by joeforte on Jun 18, 2008, 3:59 AM)
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jeremy11
Jun 17, 2008, 2:58 AM
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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Since no one else has answered I'll bite:
routes I've done
Trapdike on Mt Colden - class 3-4 (a short section of secure class 4)dike to steep (for hikers) slab to the top, about 1500 vert
Eagle Slide on Giant Mtn - class 3 "classic friction scramble" according to Don Mellor's guidebook. It felt harder at the time, but I hadn't done nearly as much climbing then.
Sticky rubber approach shoes will be helpful for both, shouldn't need any actual climbing gear.
Routes I haven't done:
North Face of Giant - steeper slab, possibly some short 5th class sections
North Face of Gothics - I've heard of a 4 pitch 5.4 on it with reasonable pro, but longer options abound, lots of lower 5th class runout lichen covered slab.
Wallface -
Case Route is a 5.4
Diagonal is a 5.8
a 5.7 C2
some harder stuff too.
there are lots of other options too, but I'm not as familiar with them
Have fun, wish I could be there, but currently I'm stuck in the San Juans in CO, with nothing but adventure climbing first ascents nearby......
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joeforte
Jun 18, 2008, 3:10 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Nice, thanks for the help. I think we're peak bagging near Mt. Marcy and I plan on taking doubles and a light rack. I'm stoked.
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joeforte
Jun 18, 2008, 4:07 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Just trying to ponder my "light rack" I was thinking a set of nuts, doubles in the middles. 3 smallest tricams, and next 4 bigger WC hexs. 4 double length slings, 6-10 trad-draws, 20 ft. 7 mil cord. and some rap rings. My new 8.5mm mammut genesis doubles (My gf bought one, I bought the other...totally stoked!).
I lead about 5.10 trad, and he can toprope 5.11 or better, so I figure we'll be able to have a lot of fun simuclimbing some alpine stuff. just looking for some low-mid 5th class, with some trees nearby for retreat maybe?
I leave thursday morning, any beta will help!
(This post was edited by joeforte on Jun 18, 2008, 4:37 PM)
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