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Rafajaman
Jul 22, 2008, 1:24 AM
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I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of?
Thank you.
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stymingersfink
Jul 22, 2008, 1:33 AM
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Rafajaman wrote: I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of? Thank you.
Get with the times. Jeesh!
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caughtinside
Jul 22, 2008, 1:47 AM
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It's nice to have both a 60 and a 70 to choose from, depending on where you'll be.
For long approaches, a 70 is almost never worth it.
If you plan to/are capable of linking pitches, a 70 can be great.
Some sport routes, a 70 is almost mandatory.
There are some rappels you can do with one 70, or else you need two ropes.
For tahoe, a lot of crags are short, really a 50 is all you need, but a 60 makes you more versatile. Lover's Leap has a few routes where a 70 makes it so you don't need a second rope to rap.
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notapplicable
Jul 22, 2008, 6:08 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: Rafajaman wrote: I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of? Thank you. Haven't you heard? 80M is the new 70M, just as 70M is the new 60M and 60m was the old 50M.
Wooh there cowboy, lets not get carried away.
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stymingersfink
Jul 22, 2008, 6:35 AM
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notapplicable wrote: stymingersfink wrote: Rafajaman wrote: I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of? Thank you. Haven't you heard? 80M is the new 70M, just as 70M is the new 60M and 60m was the old 50M. Wooh there cowboy, lets not get carried away. 
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dbrayack
Jul 22, 2008, 10:48 AM
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worth it - you can cut it and have a 60....so you get twice as much time out of it...well not twice but you get the picture.
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the_climber
Jul 22, 2008, 3:53 PM
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notapplicable wrote: stymingersfink wrote: Rafajaman wrote: I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of? Thank you. Haven't you heard? 80M is the new 70M, just as 70M is the new 60M and 60m was the old 50M. Wooh there cowboy, lets not get carried away.
You know, he's not that far off the mark.
I know of a few around here that have already either started using 80's or have them on order.
The trend seems to be using a super skinny single 80m that you can douple up and use as per a set of half ropes on wandering alpine pitches, whilst not needing a second rope for the decent. Or using said 80m rope for 3 person teams on alpine and glaciated terrain.
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notapplicable
Jul 22, 2008, 4:03 PM
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the_climber wrote: notapplicable wrote: stymingersfink wrote: Rafajaman wrote: I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of? Thank you. Haven't you heard? 80M is the new 70M, just as 70M is the new 60M and 60m was the old 50M. Wooh there cowboy, lets not get carried away. You know, he's not that far off the mark. I know of a few around here that have already either started using 80's or have them on order. The trend seems to be using a super skinny single 80m that you can douple up and use as per a set of half ropes on wandering alpine pitches, whilst not needing a second rope for the decent. Or using said 80m rope for 3 person teams on alpine and glaciated terrain.
Not to say that one wouldnt be occasionally handy but really it would be more trouble than its worth for most climbers under most circumstances. I wouldnt mind having one in the back of my closet but it wouldnt be my primary rope.
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the_climber
Jul 22, 2008, 4:25 PM
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notapplicable wrote: the_climber wrote: notapplicable wrote: Haven't you heard? 80M is the new 70M, just as 70M is the new 60M and 60m was the old 50M. Wooh there cowboy, lets not get carried away. You know, he's not that far off the mark. I know of a few around here that have already either started using 80's or have them on order. The trend seems to be using a super skinny single 80m that you can douple up and use as per a set of half ropes on wandering alpine pitches, whilst not needing a second rope for the decent. Or using said 80m rope for 3 person teams on alpine and glaciated terrain.
Not to say that one wouldnt be occasionally handy but really it would be more trouble than its worth for most climbers under most circumstances. I wouldnt mind having one in the back of my closet but it wouldnt be my primary rope.
Your right, for the average climber, it would likely be too much hassle for rope management. I'll have to see how it goes when I get a hold of my partners 80m for a few climbs.
As for 70m rope. That likely what my next single will be, paired up with an 8mm tag line for rapping.
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shimanilami
Jul 22, 2008, 4:33 PM
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Absolutely worth it, dude.
For trad climbing, the extra 10m might get you to a better belay or reduce the number of rappels you've got to make (which might save some gear in rain-out bail-outs which are not uncommon in the high country).
And while most Yosemite/Tuolemne/Tahoe sport climbs were established before 70m ropes were popular, a lot of new sport climbs and extentions require 70m.
And if shouldering an extra 10m of rope to the crag is really too much of a burden, I'd suggest you leave you're tampons at home instead.
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chossmonkey
Jul 22, 2008, 4:34 PM
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j_ung wrote: dbrayack wrote: worth it - you can cut it and have a 60....so you get twice as much time out of it...well not twice but you get the picture. That's what I was going to add, too. I think all my ropes going forward will be 70m... (err... 80m?)
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the_climber
Jul 22, 2008, 4:46 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: j_ung wrote: dbrayack wrote: worth it - you can cut it and have a 60....so you get twice as much time out of it...well not twice but you get the picture. That's what I was going to add, too. I think all my ropes going forward will be 70m... (err... 80m?) I've actually been considering getting a 70 and cutting it in half before first use. An 80 might be even better. A 35 or 40 meter rope would be perfect for most stuff around here.
Hey I remember when you could still buy 45m ropes.
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chossmonkey
Jul 22, 2008, 4:52 PM
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: j_ung wrote: dbrayack wrote: worth it - you can cut it and have a 60....so you get twice as much time out of it...well not twice but you get the picture. That's what I was going to add, too. I think all my ropes going forward will be 70m... (err... 80m?) I've actually been considering getting a 70 and cutting it in half before first use. An 80 might be even better. A 35 or 40 meter rope would be perfect for most stuff around here. Hey I remember when you could still buy 45m ropes.
Once ropes hit 90m I bet they will go back down to 45M and we can go through it all again.
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the_climber
Jul 22, 2008, 4:58 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: the_climber wrote: Hey I remember when you could still buy 45m ropes. Me to, but they were about as available as 50's are today. That was bout when 60's started being the flavor of the month. Once ropes hit 90m I bet they will go back down to 45M and we can go through it all again.
Hmmm, I remember when 45's readily availible
I also remember the hype and critisism over OMFG! 55m ropes!
All the comments of "what the hell would you need the extra 5m for?! Don't people know what douples and twins are for anymore?!"
Then 60's became standard, and the same peopel couldn't believe it when someone showed up at the crag with a 50m rope. Then it was the same people saying "Don't you know how much you're limiting yourself with a 50m rope?!"
Interesting times.
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getout87
Jul 22, 2008, 5:02 PM
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I'll probably go with a 70 for my next rope, I like long pitches.
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chossmonkey
Jul 22, 2008, 5:05 PM
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I still own a 55m.
As to the OP. some things to consider. You either need to take more gear or run it out if you make your pitches longer. Also be prepared to fall a lot further when you have a lot of rope out. Or even if you don't have much rope out since the skinny lines tend to stretch a lot more. Skinny ropes wear out faster than thicker ropes too. You could likely have a lighter, more durrable rope that costs less money if you go with the shorter rope.
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irregularpanda
Jul 22, 2008, 5:25 PM
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Rafajaman wrote: I am considering purchasing a 70m rope to get an extra 10m of play when looking for a belay, or when trying to tie two pitches together. I am starting to climb near Tahoe and Yosemite/Tuolumne granite. I am looking for opinions as to wether the weight/bulk is worth it or not(I realize this depends on the route/approach/descent), or are there any other drawbacks you know of? Thank you.
Just get a 100m, and in 5 years, you'll be able to say I told you so. Wanna buy a beanie?
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stymingersfink
Jul 22, 2008, 5:26 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: I still own a 55m. As to the OP. some things to consider. You either need to take more gear or run it out if you make your pitches longer. Also be prepared to fall a lot further when you have a lot of rope out. Or even if you don't have much rope out since the skinny lines tend to stretch a lot more. Skinny ropes wear out faster than thicker ropes too. You could likely have a lighter, more durrable rope that costs less money if you go with the shorter rope.
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mach2
Jul 22, 2008, 5:57 PM
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first and foremost, 70m is awesome if for no other reason than you can link the same pitches as 60m folks but without the worry of running out of rope. That beig said though, communication between belay/lead is tough enough on 60m when your surroundings decide to have their say. Typically I use radios in this situation, or rope communication. But, I'm curious if anyone has a great system for communication that doesn't use batteries, and offers more to say than your typical commands as ropes grow to spool-like lengths
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sspssp
Jul 22, 2008, 6:03 PM
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If you are on a limited budget and are only going to have one rope, I would probably stick with a 60m. You will probably have to special order a 70 whereas you can usually find a 60 on sale.
Between my main partner and I, we have a lot of ropes including a superskinny 70 and a fat 70. For alpine and/or easy moderate multi-pitch we take the skinny 70. It is nice to occasionally link pitches and I rarely carry a second rap rope. Most raps are 35 meters or less and if need be, we can build a rap anchor.
The fat 70 is for cragging. It is an unnecessary luxury, but there are a significant number of routes out there that you can TR/lower from using a single 70 instead of two 60s.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Jul 22, 2008, 6:04 PM)
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notapplicable
Jul 22, 2008, 6:17 PM
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the_climber wrote: As for 70m rope. That likely what my next single will be, paired up with an 8mm tag line for rapping.
Yep, been thinking the same thing myself lately. I've got less practical use for a 70m out here on the EC but I'm gonna get one for my next cord anyway. I used one for 4 days on multi pitch stuff and really liked it.
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zealotnoob
Jul 22, 2008, 7:50 PM
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I purchased a 70m and regretted it. It has been rare that the added length has been worth the weight.
For long pitches and raps, I'm loving thin doubles.
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zealotnoob
Jul 22, 2008, 8:54 PM
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The rope sits idle, waiting for its moment to shine.
Until then, I continue to fall in love with my doubles.
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