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KC0PPH
Aug 2, 2008, 3:24 AM
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Hey Guys, Well Im 16 and Love Top Rope Climbing, But as we all know it has its Downfalls, and so im now interested in multi pitch Trad Climbing and am looking to build a rack and get some gear. I live in Southern CO and have climbed at Shelf Road a few times with a friend but we did Sport. My ability is a solid 5.9 and i can climb a 5.10 on a normal day. I have been to the gym a lot and such.
Question 1: What would you suggest for me to build a good starting Trad Rack?
Question 2: Where would be a good Place in Southern CO to get the necessary instruction on how to place Pro?
Now I am a Cert Climbing Instructor for the Boy Scouts and know Anchoring very well, equalizing and such, so is that the extent of my knowlege other than placing pro?
Yours in Climbing
-Keith Cannon
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saxfiend
Aug 2, 2008, 3:55 AM
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KC0PPH wrote: Question 1: What would you suggest for me to build a good starting Trad Rack?
JL
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climbingtrash
Aug 2, 2008, 3:55 AM
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KC0PPH wrote: Hey Guys, Well Im 16 and Love Top Rope Climbing, But as we all know it has its Downfalls, and so im now interested in multi pitch Trad Climbing and am looking to build a rack and get some gear. I live in Southern CO and have climbed at Shelf Road a few times with a friend but we did Sport. My ability is a solid 5.9 and i can climb a 5.10 on a normal day. I have been to the gym a lot and such. Question 1: What would you suggest for me to build a good starting Trad Rack? Question 2: Where would be a good Place in Southern CO to get the necessary instruction on how to place Pro? Now I am a Cert Climbing Instructor for the Boy Scouts and know Anchoring very well, equalizing and such, so is that the extent of my knowlege other than placing pro? Yours in Climbing -Keith Cannon
Keith, before you buy a rack check out the entire How to climb series by John Long Those books will give you all the info you need to know. Then see if you can find someone at your gym with some trad experience that might be willing to take you out and show you how to apply what you've read in the real world.
Now...prepare yourself to be pummeled by the crew here for your above post as I back away and watch.
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jmvc
Aug 2, 2008, 11:57 AM
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KC0PPH wrote: Hey Guys, Well Im 16 and Love Top Rope Climbing, But as we all know it has its Downfalls, and so im now interested in multi pitch Trad Climbing and am looking to build a rack and get some gear. I live in Southern CO and have climbed at Shelf Road a few times with a friend but we did Sport. My ability is a solid 5.9 and i can climb a 5.10 on a normal day. I have been to the gym a lot and such. Question 1: What would you suggest for me to build a good starting Trad Rack? Question 2: Where would be a good Place in Southern CO to get the necessary instruction on how to place Pro? Now I am a Cert Climbing Instructor for the Boy Scouts and know Anchoring very well, equalizing and such, so is that the extent of my knowlege other than placing pro? Yours in Climbing -Keith Cannon
If you use the search function I think you will find many instructive threads about starting trad racks.. And also arguments about hexes being great/crap, which cams are bomber and which are death traps etc etc etc etc
As for your second question, I'm not american, so I don't even know what CO means (although I'm suspecting Colorado?)
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sungam
Aug 2, 2008, 11:59 AM
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[hijack] where abouts in Spain are you, btw?[/hijack]
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MikeSaint
Aug 2, 2008, 5:35 PM
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KC0PPH wrote: Now I am a Cert Climbing Instructor for the Boy Scouts and know Anchoring very well, equalizing and such, so is that the extent of my knowlege other than placing pro? Yours in Climbing -Keith Cannon
That should not be the extent of your knowledge. Maybe even discard what knowledge you think acquired from the boyscouts and start over.
The previous responses provide a good launch pad. There are the usual books, partners and guides.
Good luck
(This post was edited by MikeSaint on Aug 2, 2008, 5:40 PM)
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stymingersfink
Aug 2, 2008, 7:16 PM
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saxfiend wrote: KC0PPH wrote: Question 1: What would you suggest for me to build a good starting Trad Rack? A good starting trad rack is the one your partner already owns. So of course the real first step is to get an experienced and willing partner who'll help you learn and let you use his/her gear. Then when you've gotten some mileage and are ready to buy your own, you'll have a better idea of what you want and what you don't want. JL
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chossmonkey
Aug 2, 2008, 7:50 PM
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sungam wrote: [hijack] where abouts in Spain are you, btw?[/hijack]
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jmvc
Aug 2, 2008, 9:15 PM
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sungam wrote: [hijack] where abouts in Spain are you, btw?[/hijack]
50km away from Barcelona, right next to Montserrat.
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sungam
Aug 2, 2008, 10:10 PM
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sweeeeet!
I spent a couple of weeks around suirana/el falco area two years ago- monserrat looked amazing.
(p.s. chossy- served)
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jmvc
Aug 2, 2008, 10:31 PM
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It looks chossy, but actually I've only pulled one rock out in many sport and multi-pitch climbs. And I was going off route.
It has a reputation for slab climbing, and though this is generally true, diferent areas have diferent climbing styles.
PS: I've never actually been down to Siurana, there are plenty of nice "unknown" crags around near me, but I'm thinking of going down there this summer. Despite the heat.
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sungam
Aug 3, 2008, 1:18 AM
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It's fun- a little mainstream, but fun.
El falco is one of the best crags I've been to- and not another soul in sight.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Aug 4, 2008, 10:15 PM
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jmvc wrote: It looks chossy, but actually I've only pulled one rock out in many sport and multi-pitch climbs. And I was going off route. It has a reputation for slab climbing, and though this is generally true, diferent areas have diferent climbing styles. PS: I've never actually been down to Siurana, there are plenty of nice "unknown" crags around near me, but I'm thinking of going down there this summer. Despite the heat.
You ever get down to Costa Blanca?
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sungam
Aug 4, 2008, 10:47 PM
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Costa Durada FTW.
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jmvc
Aug 7, 2008, 9:28 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: You ever get down to Costa Blanca?
Only passed through..
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Arrogant_Bastard
Aug 7, 2008, 3:25 PM
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jmvc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: You ever get down to Costa Blanca? Only passed through..
As in:
A) never had the time to check the place out, or
B) Never wanted to, it's just some mediocre climbing that we marketed as an incredible destination climbing locale for stupid tourists who don't know any better.
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jmvc
Aug 8, 2008, 3:07 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: jmvc wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: You ever get down to Costa Blanca? Only passed through.. As in: A) never had the time to check the place out, or B) Never wanted to, it's just some mediocre climbing that we marketed as an incredible destination climbing locale for stupid tourists who don't know any better.
Ahaha, (a) in fact, no experience or knowlege of the climbing there, though it would have to be bloody good climbing to entice me that far down, as there is plenty to be had nearer home.
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Maddhatter
Sep 5, 2008, 10:47 PM
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All I can tell you is get stoppers and hexes(or alike) first and get good with them. Soild pro is the art of trad climbing. Don't just go out and get a set of cams and think they will get the job done there is way more to setting gear then just cams. You have to spend the time with someone that can show you little stuff like why your first pease should be set for a out pull and not a down pull. There is way more to it then just setting the gear for a down pull and if you don't learn it from a good climber that really knows how and why to set gear you just might learn it to late. Do buy some stoppers and other (soild) pro and just walk around the cliffs and try to set stuff. Then have other climbers tell you what they think of your placements. It takes time to trad climb and be as safe as you can be.
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patmay81
Sep 6, 2008, 12:36 AM
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Maddhatter wrote: All I can tell you is get stoppers and hexes(or alike) first and get good with them. Soild pro is the art of trad climbing. Don't just go out and get a set of cams and think they will get the job done there is way more to setting gear then just cams. You have to spend the time with someone that can show you little stuff like why your first pease should be set for a out pull and not a down pull. There is way more to it then just setting the gear for a down pull and if you don't learn it from a good climber that really knows how and why to set gear you just might learn it to late. Do buy some stoppers and other (soild) pro and just walk around the cliffs and try to set stuff. Then have other climbers tell you what they think of your placements. It takes time to trad climb and be as safe as you can be.
some of this advice makes sense, but to tell someone that they shouldn't get cams is dumb. You should get what it is going to take to get up whatever climb you want to start on. If you want to do a parallel splitter passive pro is probably not going to cut it.
you do need to know what a good placement is, for both passive and active protection. practicing gear placement is critical, but there's no reason you can't practice gear placement while on lead (well below your onsight level). the best way to practice climbing is to climb, just don't push your climbing level and gear placement level at the same time.
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KC0PPH
Sep 6, 2008, 1:01 AM
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well ive been doing a lot of aussie rappelling (forward abesiling) lately and such. I went to REI and talked with a guy for about an hour and got myself a good starting rack with passive pro. I have no clue how to use it but i have done a fair amount of climbs already, ive not gone above a 5.11b yet on trad because i dont feel confident with my anchors and my climbing at that level.
I guess the best place to go for advice is REI, not rockclimbing.com...
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Maddhatter
Sep 6, 2008, 1:16 AM
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patmay81 wrote: Maddhatter wrote: All I can tell you is get stoppers and hexes(or alike) first and get good with them. Soild pro is the art of trad climbing. Don't just go out and get a set of cams and think they will get the job done there is way more to setting gear then just cams. You have to spend the time with someone that can show you little stuff like why your first pease should be set for a out pull and not a down pull. There is way more to it then just setting the gear for a down pull and if you don't learn it from a good climber that really knows how and why to set gear you just might learn it to late. Do buy some stoppers and other (soild) pro and just walk around the cliffs and try to set stuff. Then have other climbers tell you what they think of your placements. It takes time to trad climb and be as safe as you can be. some of this advice makes sense, but to tell someone that they shouldn't get cams is dumb. You should get what it is going to take to get up whatever climb you want to start on. If you want to do a parallel splitter passive pro is probably not going to cut it. you do need to know what a good placement is, for both passive and active protection. practicing gear placement is critical, but there's no reason you can't practice gear placement while on lead (well below your onsight level). the best way to practice climbing is to climb, just don't push your climbing level and gear placement level at the same time.
DUDE! I never said don't get cam's just that it's better to learn to set soild pro first. thats all.
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knieveltech
Sep 6, 2008, 1:29 AM
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KC0PPH wrote: Hey Guys, Well Im 16 and Love Top Rope Climbing, But as we all know it has its Downfalls, and so im now interested in multi pitch Trad Climbing and am looking to build a rack and get some gear. I live in Southern CO and have climbed at Shelf Road a few times with a friend but we did Sport. My ability is a solid 5.9 and i can climb a 5.10 on a normal day. I have been to the gym a lot and such. Question 1: What would you suggest for me to build a good starting Trad Rack? Question 2: Where would be a good Place in Southern CO to get the necessary instruction on how to place Pro? Now I am a Cert Climbing Instructor for the Boy Scouts and know Anchoring very well, equalizing and such, so is that the extent of my knowlege other than placing pro? Yours in Climbing -Keith Cannon
Uh let's see...three pink tricams (shave two), some chouinard hexes, red and gold u-stem camalots...oh shit....wait...you said Colorado. I have no idea.
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stymingersfink
Sep 6, 2008, 2:09 AM
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KC0PPH wrote: well ive been doing a lot of aussie rappelling (forward abesiling) lately and such. I went to REI and talked with a guy for about an hour and got myself a good starting rack with passive pro. I have no clue how to use it but i have done a fair amount of climbs already, ive not gone above a 5.11b yet on trad because i dont feel confident with my anchors and my climbing at that level. I guess the best place to go for advice is REI, not rockclimbing.com...
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