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majid_sabet
Aug 12, 2008, 8:04 AM
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dingus wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Dingus you are SAR's biggest nightmare . Wanna compare self-evac combat wounds? Sides, I thought YOU were SAR's worst nightmare. Me? They'd be done with my cleanup pronto. You? The gift that keeps on giving..... DMT
You got me all wrong,we are trained to look for physical objects and not some ghost that wonders solo by himself in Sierras.
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majid_sabet
Aug 12, 2008, 8:07 AM
Post #27 of 83
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andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Dingus you are SAR's biggest nightmare . Ok So whats in your pack on summit day? With the following as a weather prediction: Clear Skys but could snow later that night 0 Deg temps steady throughout the day Base camp is half a days hike/climb from summit not trying to pick a fight i'm just looking for alternative opinions
If I was you and new in mountaineering, I would ask dingus for his list and no one else. so just go with what dingus says.
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mcolombo
Aug 12, 2008, 9:10 AM
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dingus wrote: You take what you need, on summit day. And not one ounce more! Cheers DMT
Would an eighth be enough?
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andrewd
Aug 12, 2008, 3:57 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Dingus you are SAR's biggest nightmare . Ok So whats in your pack on summit day? With the following as a weather prediction: Clear Skys but could snow later that night 0 Deg temps steady throughout the day Base camp is half a days hike/climb from summit not trying to pick a fight i'm just looking for alternative opinions If I was you and new in mountaineering, I would ask dingus for his list and no one else. so just go with what dingus says.
....But Whats in your pack?
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sungam
Aug 12, 2008, 4:27 PM
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andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: andrewd wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Dingus you are SAR's biggest nightmare . Ok So whats in your pack on summit day? With the following as a weather prediction: Clear Skys but could snow later that night 0 Deg temps steady throughout the day Base camp is half a days hike/climb from summit not trying to pick a fight i'm just looking for alternative opinions If I was you and new in mountaineering, I would ask dingus for his list and no one else. so just go with what dingus says. ....But Whats in your pack?
He climbs rock, or has a sherpa carry it for him.
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summerprophet
Aug 12, 2008, 4:31 PM
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Andrew,
The whole light and fast attitude is great, but needs to be combined with a wealth of experience. Start out with everything you can imagine needing (needing not wanting), and with each subsiquent trip, you can trim your pack down to a damn near anorexic level.
When rank amateurs follow the fast and light approach they are asking for trouble. Without experience and a solid buildup of skills, you are likely to get yourself in trouble, and without a full loadup of gear, trouble can kill you quick.
Examples:
Shovel: big and heavy, do you know the snow conditions? do you know wheere the prevailing winds will deposit snow that will be easy to dig by hand for a cave?
Axe / Crampons: getting very comfortable without depending on these speeds things up a lot. Get used to trusting your boots. More often than not, people stop to dig out crampons when they are really not needed.
Food / Fuel: Beginners typically take way to much food and fuel. Figure out your usage, and take just a bit extra in the event the shit hits the fan.
Sleeping bag: Extra calories and a walk before bed will keep you warm through the night in a lower rated bag, figure out if you are a warm or cold sleeper.
Clothing: Stay warm but take the minimum. Clean clothing is for meeting your fuck buddies parents, you are supposed to stink in the mountains. EXCEPTION is socks, take top notch care of your feet, Wet socks lead to very bad things (blisters, swampfoot, frostbite).
You have to find your happy place between Majid and Grizzly Adams, One can subsist on nothing but experience, the other requires equipment to cover every possible contingency.
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altelis
Aug 12, 2008, 4:46 PM
Post #32 of 83
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summerprophet wrote: Andrew, The whole light and fast attitude is great, but needs to be combined with a wealth of experience. Start out with everything you can imagine needing (needing not wanting), and with each subsiquent trip, you can trim your pack down to a damn near anorexic level. When rank amateurs follow the fast and light approach they are asking for trouble. Without experience and a solid buildup of skills, you are likely to get yourself in trouble, and without a full loadup of gear, trouble can kill you quick. Examples: Shovel: big and heavy, do you know the snow conditions? do you know wheere the prevailing winds will deposit snow that will be easy to dig by hand for a cave? Axe / Crampons: getting very comfortable without depending on these speeds things up a lot. Get used to trusting your boots. More often than not, people stop to dig out crampons when they are really not needed. Food / Fuel: Beginners typically take way to much food and fuel. Figure out your usage, and take just a bit extra in the event the shit hits the fan. Sleeping bag: Extra calories and a walk before bed will keep you warm through the night in a lower rated bag, figure out if you are a warm or cold sleeper. Clothing: Stay warm but take the minimum. Clean clothing is for meeting your fuck buddies parents, you are supposed to stink in the mountains. EXCEPTION is socks, take top notch care of your feet, Wet socks lead to very bad things (blisters, swampfoot, frostbite). You have to find your happy place between Majid and Grizzly Adams, One can subsist on nothing but experience, the other requires equipment to cover every possible contingency.
A+ advice right here. take this VERY seriously......
what i would'ved said were i not feeling especially lazy right now
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sungam
Aug 12, 2008, 4:49 PM
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summerprophet wrote: the other requires equipment to cover every possible contingency.
wait... what?[/majidbashing]
Seriously though, summerprophet is right- it's better to take too much at the start.
Fuck, I still bring stuff I don't need.
one thing you should experiment alot with is cloths.
See what works for you- my friend can climb in gore-tex all he likes and doesn't get sweaty, where I am insta-soaked the second I do something physical with a hardshell on.
Try out salopettes, hardshell pants, thin softshell pants with powerstretch tights etc etc.
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andrewd
Aug 12, 2008, 5:01 PM
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My One and Only Alpine Trip (Thus Far) Included the Following Gear on Mount Washington Lions Head
Winter Route:
I made a go at it last year on presidents day weekend and due to some issues with guys in my group not having properly sussed out their gear we spent about 8 hours on the "hill" when we got to lions head the weather had gone from clear and little wind to near white out conditons with 50-70mph gusts. Needless to say we didn't get much further then the alpine gardens.
My gear was good but I know I took way too much, as I was prepared to spend the night. Partially because I knew the rest of my group was dreadfully unprepared and partially since it was my first time doing any such activity:
Packing List:
Sleeping bag (0 deg)
Half Pad
Extra Gloves
Gore_tex Bivy Sack
5 so Cliff Bars and one single man backpacker meal (for emergencies)
2 nalgene Bottles WIth jackets (full of water)
Extra Goggles
Down Coat
Gore-Tex Coat
1 Fleece Jacket
Extra Crampons ( these actually came in handy because a dude in my group bought a vintage trash pair on ebay and we were forced to rig a pair of step ins onto regular hiking boots ( I was the only one with crampon compatable mountaineering boots "K4S by La Sportiva"
Balaclava
Stove-dragonfly
Fuel-1 days worth
1 Small Pot for melting snow
GPS
MAP
Compass
70 Cm Axe
Trecking Poles
BD Auto Crampons
I think thats it for the most part.
I've been thinking about how to reduce my load and obviously I had a kit more suitable for doing a multy day climb (excluding the climbing gear) but I didn't know any different....and my pack was heavy as shit....
I Do a good bit a winter backpacking but I understand the rules are different above the tree line.
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sungam
Aug 12, 2008, 5:07 PM
Post #35 of 83
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forgot to add-
I got one of those fire steel lighter things. They seem to work pretty well when wet and cold and stuff- beats matches or flimsy lighter.
Jet lighters are good, too.
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andrewd
Aug 12, 2008, 5:11 PM
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Yeah forgot to mention I had a fairly good lighter and a small radio too (for communicating with the second party) And the radio really came in handy when my group was trying to locat the others in the mass of crowded mess the entire way up the hill.
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majid_sabet
Aug 12, 2008, 5:21 PM
Post #37 of 83
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Andrew
are you done with your list?
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andrewd
Aug 12, 2008, 5:42 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Andrew are you done with your list?
Yeah from what I can remember....
Obviously I was wearing some of my gear at the start so I didn't include them on my "packing list"
But this does not mean I will take this same kit the next time on Wash or other climb trips for that matter. (hence the reason for this post)
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dingus
Aug 12, 2008, 5:52 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: dingus wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Dingus you are SAR's biggest nightmare . Wanna compare self-evac combat wounds? Sides, I thought YOU were SAR's worst nightmare. Me? They'd be done with my cleanup pronto. You? The gift that keeps on giving..... DMT You got me all wrong,we are trained to look for physical objects and not some ghost that wonders solo by himself in Sierras.
How could you NOT be awed by the WONDER of it all???
And btw... not all those who wander are lost....
DMT
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andrewd
Aug 12, 2008, 6:03 PM
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Heres a shot of the attempt
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sungam
Aug 12, 2008, 6:23 PM
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looks like a whole lot of fun!
How often did those poons ball up in that powder, though?
If it's how it looks I may haver gone without.
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andrewd
Aug 12, 2008, 6:41 PM
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sungam wrote: looks like a whole lot of fun! How often did those poons ball up in that powder, though? If it's how it looks I may haver gone without.
They weren't bad.. You really can't take them off because, even though that part was relatively flat, the half mile just before that is fairly steep (enough for occasional front pointing) Not tomention that the trail has large spots of pure ice just under the powder so with the wind blowing you around you had ot have the poons on.
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sungam
Aug 12, 2008, 10:08 PM
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andrewd wrote: sungam wrote: looks like a whole lot of fun! How often did those poons ball up in that powder, though? If it's how it looks I may haver gone without. They weren't bad.. You really can't take them off because, even though that part was relatively flat, the half mile just before that is fairly steep (enough for occasional front pointing) Not tomention that the trail has large spots of pure ice just under the powder so with the wind blowing you around you had ot have the poons on.
looooong way down.
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vterinme
Aug 12, 2008, 11:04 PM
Post #44 of 83
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The best suggestion to begin with is know your route.
So something like Mt Washington, you don't need two bottles of water. The entire hike up parallels a river, or if you bring fuel carry less water. There is potable water at Ho-Jo's and what I consider potable at Harvard cabin.
I wouldn't bring extra goggles, it might suck but you can get by with a broken frozen pair.
Do you know how to use a compass? If so then scrap the GPS it's a novelty if you carry both.
I eat light, so 1 powerbar or its equivalent will easily get me through a day.
I've never hauled a sleeping bag or a bivy bag up a day climb in the NorthEast. However, I am familiar with my body, most of NE's peak routes, and my abilities. One or the other should work well with all the other gear.
Scratch the gloves and bring extra mitts.
Lastly, it can be nice to carry one extra Nalgene with hot tea or chocolate for those very cold days. Wrap it in your down coat and/or and insulator bag.
All the rest is fine as you get more acquainted to these areas you'll get you own list down. For instance, I will not bring an axe or poles for Lions Head.
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reno
Aug 13, 2008, 4:03 AM
Post #45 of 83
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majid_sabet wrote: Dingus you are SAR's biggest nightmare .
When you can show the times/dates that Dingus has required SAR evac, you can make that statement. Until such time comes about, you can't.
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andrewd
Aug 13, 2008, 4:07 AM
Post #46 of 83
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I'm still waiting for his packing list....either he doesn't want to share trade secrets or he's just ignoring me 
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anykineclimb
Aug 13, 2008, 6:29 AM
Post #47 of 83
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andrewd wrote: My gear was good but I know I took way too much, as I was prepared to spend the night. Partially because I knew the rest of my group was dreadfully unprepared ...
This is WAAY bad juju. If you knew your group wasn't ready, you shouldn't have gone. things could have been way worse than what you described. be careful.
things I see missing from the packing list:
1st aid kit
extra socks
headlamp, extra batteries
rethink carrying the dragonfly. they're great stoves but all you're doing is boiling water. a pocket rocket or jetboil or even whisperlite would be better.
Save some fuel by adding snow (NOT yellow) to a waterbottle that is 1/2 full of water.
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andrewd
Aug 13, 2008, 11:57 AM
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anykineclimb wrote: andrewd wrote: My gear was good but I know I took way too much, as I was prepared to spend the night. Partially because I knew the rest of my group was dreadfully unprepared ... This is WAAY bad juju. If you knew your group wasn't ready, you shouldn't have gone. things could have been way worse than what you described. be careful. things I see missing from the packing list: 1st aid kit extra socks headlamp, extra batteries rethink carrying the dragonfly. they're great stoves but all you're doing is boiling water. a pocket rocket or jetboil or even whisperlite would be better. Save some fuel by adding snow (NOT yellow) to a waterbottle that is 1/2 full of water.
well lets just say they would have gone with or without me....
and I had the headlamp and med kit i just forgot to include it on the list.
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andrewd
Aug 13, 2008, 5:08 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: andrewd wrote: I'm still waiting for his packing list....either he doesn't want to share trade secrets or he's just ignoring me open you pack and let me see 1- knife 2- flashlligh 3-first aid kit for now till your list complete
What?
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