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Agassizclimber
Aug 18, 2008, 12:50 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2008
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Has anyone climbed this area recently. I am visiting the area and hiked up yesterday. Cannot find any signs of climbers and trail leads to the top. Needless to say a 4 pitch rap with no beta to water does not sound like fun. Spoke with a number of locals and they all looked at me like I was crazy to think of climbing this cliff.
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granite_grrl
Aug 19, 2008, 4:30 PM
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Its a little out of the way so I don't think it gets visited much. There was someone on the ACC Toronto section a little back talking about climbing there though.
We found a guide book for the area out in Alberta of all places. It would be nice to get up there sometime to check it out (even if it does mean a little bit of vertical bush wacking).
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Agassizclimber
Aug 19, 2008, 7:07 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2008
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The rock looks totally worthwhile. Beautiful lines and awesome exposure, but definitely some bushwhacking required on the lower pitches. I've been searching online for the guide but it seems to be lost in time. Would you be willing to scan the relevant pages to me?
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memorex15
Jan 5, 2009, 3:10 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2008
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i have accually climbed it a few times i am from haileybury which is right beside devils rock. most ppl do it from the water up. there is aparently bolts on the rock. There is also a trail that leads right to the top of the rock its good to top rope. If you take hwy 567 which you get on it in North Cobalt you will come to a place called buck park which will be on your right hand side. there is a trail that leads to devils rock lookout or there is also a shorter trail on the side of the road i dont remember if its marked but you can pull your car into it. if you need anymore help leave me a message cheers
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Ghislain
Mar 14, 2009, 8:50 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2007
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Hey - So I was there last summer. Got in by hiking to the top. Theres two ways to get there, one by hiking from Burke park campground or by taking a short cut a little further down the road. The parking for the short cut is a small pullout about 2 k further than Burke park. You can also get there with a boat. There are nice 1/2 in. SS bolted belay stations on a few of the climbs, and the rock is solid and mostly clean. The people at Burke park can give you more info, but the locals will mostly look at you like you are crazy. If you can find a guide book, great. If not, I'd advise you to start at the northernmost wallws because the climbs are shorter and you can rap and walk back up if you are just checking it out. The southernmost walls had a trail going to them at some point by the looks of it, but right now it's bushwacking with no real way of knowing what you're gonna rap down to. I intend to do some work there this spring if I get the time.
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johncotgrave
Apr 14, 2009, 1:51 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2008
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hey bud, i'm from cochrane and am also thinking about making some trips the this summer. i've never been before but have been longing ever since i read about seigfreids line in Ontario's Finest Climbs. Maybe we can exchange possible dates and have ourselves a trip out there. I'm hopping to make it out there more than once. hope to see you out there. have a good one.
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darkside
Apr 14, 2009, 2:56 AM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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I think the guidebook John mentions is your best bet for some beta. Was it called Ontarios Finest or was it Ontario Select? I think Dave Smart was one of the authors. We used that book when we went to do the Finger Of God.
There was also an underground guide because my old roommate was from around there and had one but I wouldn't have a clue where you'd get one from.
Wherever you get your beta from, keep in mind that a number of bolted routes have gone up in recent years that may not appear on topos you get hold of. If you rap in consider leaving a rap line to ascend out on if you aren't where you think you are.
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johncotgrave
Apr 14, 2009, 3:00 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2008
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yeah good advise, that what that book had advised as well, i have a static i'll make sure to bring along, if not just for the rappells. thanks for the tid bit
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