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carabiner96
Sep 2, 2008, 3:55 PM
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****Make this a sticky?****
As I'm sure you know, chicks are awesome. The thing I think that makes girls awesome is that they're NOT dudes.
Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) this sport that we love is still dude oriented, from magazine ads to product design. Us chicks aren't built the same as dudes, nor do we even like the same looks as some hairy gent at the gym.
So, this thread is dedicated to the best (and worst) of women's specific gear - or non-specific but things that work great for women non the less. Shoes, harnesses, packs, tank tops...if it works for one lady, it might help out another!
This could go in gear heads, but I think it fit's a little nicer in here.
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carabiner96
Sep 2, 2008, 4:08 PM
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I'll start!
Lady's Techno by Scarpa, $125.00
* Women-specific FNW last excels on technical trad routes
* Low-profile toe lets you securely slot your foot into a crack
* Heel Lock System secures foot in place without the use of a heel rand, thereby reducing pressure on the Achilles tendon for excellent all-day comfort
* Four-millimeter VibramŽ XS Grip rubber provides critical support and necessary stickiness
* Lacing system accommodates a wide range of foot shapes
Ok, my bits:
-Super sticky rubber. think that scene in the polar bear princess( c'mon, you've all seen it) where she just scales right up the cliff...that's you in these shoes!
-I have a fairly low volume, narrowish foot that filled out the shoe quite nicely
-It's easy to overtighten the heel ribbon, i got a sore achilles a few times in these shoes
-Great for finger to hand cracks, a little on the soft side for anything bigger than that.
-Stretches a half size or less. I'm a 38.5 in most la sportiva, was a 38.5 in these, i'm a 7 3/4 street shoe size.
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macherry
Sep 2, 2008, 4:34 PM
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nice idea biner!!!
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tigerlilly
Sep 2, 2008, 7:19 PM
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Excellent idea, 'Biner!
I've been very happy with the new Boreal Lunas: http://www.boreal-club.com/Us/Html/index1.htm
They are great for skinny feet and all-day climbs. Probably not so great for high-performance bouldering and the like, or for crack climbing (rand is low).
Pros: They're soft and comfy, but still edge well and provide adequate support for my achy old feet. Slightly asymetric, but not enough to hurt my longer middle toe. Lined, so they didn't stretch out to be too large in the 6 or 7 months I've used them. In fact, they really haven't stretched much at all, so buy them just about the way you want them to fit in the end. My size 9AA feet fit well in a UK 5.5.
Cons: They're pink. I'm not a fan of pink anything. They're so comfy, I've forgiven them for their unfortunate color.
Note: The Sol is the same shoe with two velcro straps. I tried these on but opted for the lace-up Lunas. These were the first velcro shoes I actually could wear and not have the velcro strap wrapped so far over that the hooks and loops no longer meet. (I have really, really narrow feet).
Kathy
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carabiner96
Sep 2, 2008, 7:29 PM
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That's not too bad!
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macherry
Sep 2, 2008, 8:57 PM
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tigerlilly wrote: Excellent idea, 'Biner! I've been very happy with the new Boreal Lunas: http://www.boreal-club.com/Us/Html/index1.htm They are great for skinny feet and all-day climbs. Probably not so great for high-performance bouldering and the like, or for crack climbing (rand is low). Pros: They're soft and comfy, but still edge well and provide adequate support for my achy old feet. Slightly asymetric, but not enough to hurt my longer middle toe. Lined, so they didn't stretch out to be too large in the 6 or 7 months I've used them. In fact, they really haven't stretched much at all, so buy them just about the way you want them to fit in the end. My size 9AA feet fit well in a UK 5.5. Cons: They're pink. I'm not a fan of pink anything. They're so comfy, I've forgiven them for their unfortunate color. Note: The Sol is the same shoe with two velcro straps. I tried these on but opted for the lace-up Lunas. These were the first velcro shoes I actually could wear and not have the velcro strap wrapped so far over that the hooks and loops no longer meet. (I have really, really narrow feet). Kathy
how is the rubber, i had a pair of boreals a few years back and i hated the rubber, not grippy, very slipppery
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tigerlilly
Sep 3, 2008, 1:21 PM
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macherry wrote: How is the rubber, i had a pair of boreals a few years back and i hated the rubber, not grippy, very slipppery
I have not had any trouble with the Boreal RS Quattro rubber not being sticky enough, and smearing is not my best skill. It seems to be at least as sticky as the LaSportiva XS Grip rubber that was on some other shoes I tried. I had read and heard several comments to the effect of "Boreal rubber sucks," and was a bit leary when I bought these, but I have been pleasantly surprised.
Regards,
Kathy
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wonderwoman
Sep 5, 2008, 1:27 PM
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Okay, my turn to chime in! Great thread and idea btw, biner!
I just bought a helmet last night that fits my teeny weeny head! It's the black diamond half dome. It's super light and is the first helmet to ever fit me. It can be adjusted down to 53cm, while the rest of my helmets have only gone down to 56cm:
http://www.bdel.com/gear/half_dome.php
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granite_grrl
Sep 5, 2008, 2:15 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: Okay, my turn to chime in! Great thread and idea btw, biner! I just bought a helmet last night that fits my teeny weeny head! It's the black diamond half dome. It's super light and is the first helmet to ever fit me. It can be adjusted down to 53cm, while the rest of my helmets have only gone down to 56cm: [image]http://www.bdel.com/images/gear/s07/620204_HalfDome.jpg[/image] http://www.bdel.com/gear/half_dome.php
I went to replace my halfdome after I crashed and burned. Replaced the old style one with a new one. I didn't find the new suspension comfortable at all so I went on the search for yet another new helmet.
Ended up with a Petzl Elios (great new suspension sytem, btw), size 1. Size 2 is huge on me, but size 1 is significantly smaller....smaller than my Half Dome too. I need to bring the Half Dome when out ice climbing a lot of the times 'cause I can't wear a thicker hat under the Elios.
So yeah, the Half Dome might be good for small head, but the Elios is kick ass too.
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wonderwoman
Sep 5, 2008, 2:26 PM
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I have the elios size 1, and even when I wear a head band it still tips to the side and generally flops around on my head. Although I do like the color better, I look like a dork with a tilted helmet. The half dome seems to stay put.
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granite_grrl
Sep 5, 2008, 2:28 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: I have the elios size 1, and even when I wear a head band it still tips to the side and generally flops around on my head. Although I do like the color better, I look like a dork with a tilted helmet. The half dome seems to stay put.
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wonderwoman
Sep 5, 2008, 2:31 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: wonderwoman wrote: I have the elios size 1, and even when I wear a head band it still tips to the side and generally flops around on my head. Although I do like the color better, I look like a dork with a tilted helmet. The half dome seems to stay put. I find the opposite (my halfdome tips and flops, even ice climbing I wear the Elios as much as I can). Our head must be totally different shapes.
I think I'm a mutant! The elios even fits my daughters head!
Maybe they changed something in the structure of the helmet recently?
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talia
Sep 5, 2008, 5:19 PM
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I just got the grivel salamander because it was on sale at REI and i needed it asap. It's a little lose on my head on the smallest setting, but i can just throw my hair in braided pig tails or wear a bandana underneath and it works out well.
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acacongua
Sep 9, 2008, 8:09 PM
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Here's a couple of inquiries:
1. For Maple climbers, what is the best rubber? I was slipping a lot with my Anasazi's, although putting a lot of work in my feet gained me stronger abs.
2. Which is warmer - Patagonia R2 or North Face Denali?
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tigerlilly
Sep 9, 2008, 8:48 PM
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wonderwoman wrote: Okay, my turn to chime in! Great thread and idea btw, biner! I just bought a helmet last night that fits my teeny weeny head! It's the black diamond half dome. It's super light and is the first helmet to ever fit me. It can be adjusted down to 53cm, while the rest of my helmets have only gone down to 56cm:
BD seems to care about us small-headed folks. The Tracer is another good lid for little skulls. Nice of them to make it in 3 sizes instead of 1 or 2. I find mine to be forgettably comfortable.
(This post was edited by tigerlilly on Sep 9, 2008, 8:49 PM)
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wonderwoman
Sep 9, 2008, 8:54 PM
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oohhh! I like the yellow!
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talia
Sep 9, 2008, 9:21 PM
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inquirie numero dos...
I can't vouch for the patagonia R2, but the Northface Denali is warm, but does not block wind at all. It's more of a trendy fleece and should only be worn with ugg boots
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lwilson
Sep 11, 2008, 3:55 PM
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I LOVE the Petzl Luna harness. Great for sport, long trad routes and hanging belays, and also ice. So very impressed with this harness.
http://en.petzl.com/...Produits?Produit=631
great idea 'biner!
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lwilson
Sep 11, 2008, 4:04 PM
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wait, I have another one....(for all you ice climbers...)
anyone else own these? I've been using them for 2 seasons now, and they are excellent for technical ice. My feet can still get a little cold, as new england winters are wet and damp, but these are noted to not be the warmest of boots. You give that up to get the great technical handling of them. I used them in Ouray (dry cold) and my feet felt great.
http://www.sportiva.com/products/prod/281
btw...how do you post an image into these comments? it looks way better than a url link.
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wonderwoman
Sep 11, 2008, 4:15 PM
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How many gear loops on that Lauren? I'm in the market for a new harness myself.
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lwilson
Sep 11, 2008, 4:30 PM
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Tiff -
4 gear loops, and they hold enough gear for me (and I like to take a LOT with me). I can almost fit a double rack on it, even with the way I rack (each piece has its own biner than I directly clip into, and I bring a handfull of extendos).
Even with all the weight, the harness feels pretty good on the hips.
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tavs
Sep 11, 2008, 9:59 PM
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acacongua wrote: Here's a couple of inquiries: 1. For Maple climbers, what is the best rubber? I was slipping a lot with my Anasazi's, although putting a lot of work in my feet gained me stronger abs. 2. Which is warmer - Patagonia R2 or North Face Denali?
Re: #1. Not really an answer, but that's because I don't know that there is a good one. I climb in Maple frequently, these days in either Anasazis or Moccasyms, but I used to wear Muiras a lot. To be honest, I don't know that any other rubber is going to perform much better. The cobbles just don't have much texture, but on the plus side, on most routes there are feet everywhere :) I try to keep my feet on the gritty stuff that holds the cobbles together as much as possible.
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nicolebridges1983
Sep 13, 2008, 8:21 AM
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Hi,
Although i'm new to climbing and this is my first Helmet, just thought might be a great idea to share for those who were looking for a new helmet.
Its the Petzl Ecrin Roc. It is comfortable, does not slide back when you look up, love the adjustment system, is not tight and it sits on the head well. This is my personal opinion, like i said this is the first helmet i have had. But i'm extremely happy with it. The minute i tried it on, it just felt right. Be interested to know if anyone has had any problems with it or are eually as happy as i am.
Cheers.
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zenelky
Sep 15, 2008, 2:15 PM
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Since winter is rolling around, I wanted to let you all know that I will not recommend the Women's Sub-Zero Jacket by Mountain Hardware (although it's priced well if you get last years model).
Two primary reasons
1: It's cut short to fit women, but it's cut a too short (maybe to look cuter?) so you're lower back is usually poking out and getting cold, ESPECIALLY while belaying and/or sitting. I'm a short girl with a short torso, so I can only imagine how cold your middle would be if you were the average female.
2: The arms are cut too short. This was also alarming because I bought the jacket 1 size big to compensate for the extra clothing I wear under it. So again, if I bought it 1 size larger and the arms are stilll short with my negative ape index, I fear for the frozen wrists of average women everywhere.
Also, I bought this jacket at the beginning of last winter, washed it once and all the down migrated to the bottom of the arms (maybe to compensate for not covering my wrists, the down was meant to keep my forearms warm?). Contacted MH, sent it back, they fixed it, then I washed it again per their instructions and the down came out again. 
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