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IsayAutumn
Oct 9, 2008, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2008
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Hello. My partner and I are heading out to Seneca Rocks, WV, next weekend, and we are looking to break into the 9s. Does anybody have any suggestions on some good (maybe soft, for Seneca) 9s to start with? We were thinking of Frosted Flake, but if there are other recommendations, I'd love to hear 'em.
For some context, last time we were there a couple weeks ago, we did Triple S (8+) and loved it, although it felt very strenuous (but not difficult, per se).
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notapplicable
Oct 9, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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IsayAutumn wrote: Hello. My partner and I are heading out to Seneca Rocks, WV, next weekend, and we are looking to break into the 9s. Does anybody have any suggestions on some good (maybe soft, for Seneca) 9s to start with? We were thinking of Frosted Flake, but if there are other recommendations, I'd love to hear 'em. For some context, last time we were there a couple weeks ago, we did Triple S (8+) and loved it, although it felt very strenuous (but not difficult, per se).
Marshall's Madness just to the left of Triple S is an obvious and fun choice. Bolted anchors make it easy to TR and if your feeling good at the top of the first pitch you can give Crack of Dawn(5.10a) a go.
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sticky_fingers
Oct 9, 2008, 9:37 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2003
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Climbboard sent me up Frosted Flake a couple years ago. Quite nice, I just slipped going for the anchors. .75 under the roof held well ;)
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cragmasterp
Oct 9, 2008, 10:56 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2003
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yep, that ole triple s is quite a 5.8. Would be a 9 most places...
some of my favorite 9s at Seneca off the top of my head:
High Test - take lots of long slings, this pitch wanders around.
Marshals Madness
The Great Impostor
Frosted Flake (P1 only) - the lightest 9 at Seneca
Right Tope
Judgement Seat
Desperado
Easy Skankin' (lead the 1st 2 pitches of Ye Gods in one pitch to get to this out-of-the-way bolted route)
Streptococcus
Bring on the Nubiles - 9+ (lead West Pole thru the roof, belay. Walk down the ledge to te left and lead the stellar upper pitch of Nubiles to avoid the R rated 1st pitch. Still a pretty frightening lead, but man is it good)
hard 8's you may still need to do:
Climbin Punishment
The Burn
Tomato
Alcoa Presents
Lichen or Leave It
Dufty's Popoff - 5.7 R, but not that scary. well protected crux.
"light" 10's that used to be 9's:
Castor
Pollux
Crack of Dawn
Thats all i got without my old trusty guidebook in front of me.
Enjoy!
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hyhuu
Oct 9, 2008, 11:26 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
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He asked for soft 9, not a list of 9. High Test is probably the hardest 9 at Seneca. Last time I climbed it, Judgement Seat was a 5.10a.
To the OP, you want to skip the 5.9+ as rated in the book. The rest of the 5.9 aren't that much different. Depending on what your style is, you want to select the one that suits you the best and is also well protected.
If you are comfortable with crack then Marshall Madness to start with. THere is also a 5.9 handcrack variation of Le Gourmet Direct. If you like face, then Back to the Front or Bring on the Nubile. If you like corner/flake climb then Frosted Flake and Right Tope.
Once you nail those, try the popular 5.10a such as Pollux, Castor, Crack of Dawn.
Good luck.
cragmasterp wrote: yep, that ole triple s is quite a 5.8. Would be a 9 most places... some of my favorite 9s at Seneca off the top of my head: High Test - take lots of long slings, this pitch wanders around. Marshals Madness The Great Impostor Frosted Flake (P1 only) - the lightest 9 at Seneca Right Tope Judgement Seat Desperado Easy Skankin' (lead the 1st 2 pitches of Ye Gods in one pitch to get to this out-of-the-way bolted route) Streptococcus Bring on the Nubiles - 9+ (lead West Pole thru the roof, belay. Walk down the ledge to te left and lead the stellar upper pitch of Nubiles to avoid the R rated 1st pitch. Still a pretty frightening lead, but man is it good) hard 8's you may still need to do: Climbin Punishment The Burn Tomato Alcoa Presents Lichen or Leave It Dufty's Popoff - 5.7 R, but not that scary. well protected crux. "light" 10's that used to be 9's: Castor Pollux Crack of Dawn Thats all i got without my old trusty guidebook in front of me. Enjoy! |
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