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hipclimber
Nov 15, 2008, 4:10 AM
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I've been wondering in what sittuations I should use each type of heel hooking. Notice the angle of the heel hook. I can't seem to figure out which is more useful and in what situations.
Any thoughts?
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uni_jim
Nov 15, 2008, 4:35 AM
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just put your foot on the rock whichever way will make it least likely you will fall.
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hopperhopper
Nov 15, 2008, 5:12 AM
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Haha brill. But that's basically it. The reason the 2nd guy's heel is at the wierd angle is because the face above that ledge keeps him from hooking it directly. Just put it on there whichever way you can and whichever way you need to pull on it. There's no hard and fast rule.
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addicted2alpine
Nov 15, 2008, 11:32 AM
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just dont heal hook like the guy (or gal?) in the first pic when leading or if your hand blows your going for a nice upside down winger. weeeeeeeeee
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johnwesely
Nov 15, 2008, 12:06 PM
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Some of this is going to be a little difficult to explain over the internet so its best to have someone show you if possible but I will try. Most of the time when you use a heel hook it is a stabilizing move so what you want to do is get you foot parallel with the wall and suck your knee up as high and close to the wall as it will go. This is the confusing/helpful part. It is called a heel toe cam. with you foot flat on the hold because you sucked your knee all the way up torque in with your toe. This will really make your heel hooks solid and you will feel it when you get it.
Edit: If I did a poor job explaining that I will try and make a diagram to show you what I mean when I get back from climbing today.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Nov 15, 2008, 12:08 PM)
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sungam
Nov 15, 2008, 4:22 PM
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uni_jim wrote: just put your foot on the rock whichever way will make it least likely you will fall.
Also note that you simply couldn't do what the chick is doing on the problem the dude it doing. Holds outside don't stick out and simply don't allow that sideways action.
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mturner
Nov 15, 2008, 4:42 PM
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sungam wrote: Holds outside don't stick out and simply don't allow that sideways action.
Not always true. In addition to hold type it has to do with the specific movement. The dude in the second pic is probably moving more straight up than left thus he cams his toes outward, so that his knee is pointing away from the wall. As he pulls into the heel in an upward motion, the knee moves towards the wall allowing his hip to move into the correct position. In the first pick, the girl is doing a giant cross and is virtually horizontal, again the angle of the knee (parallel to the wall) allows the hip to move into the correct position. As someone said though, probably better if someone shows you in person.
(This post was edited by mturner on Nov 15, 2008, 4:49 PM)
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sungam
Nov 15, 2008, 4:48 PM
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Well said, maybe my point didn't go across.
What I was trying to say is that it depends and the situation will dictate which will be most effective.
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mturner
Nov 15, 2008, 4:49 PM
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sungam wrote: Well said, maybe my point didn't go across. What I was trying to say is that it depends and the situation will dictate which will be most effective.
agreed
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fjclimbsrocks
Nov 15, 2008, 4:50 PM
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It depends....mmmkay?
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Johnny_Fang
Nov 15, 2008, 6:57 PM
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you do the heel hood that is the most fun
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hafilax
Nov 15, 2008, 9:13 PM
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If the heel hook hold in line with your body such that your knee is vertical then the toes up method works best. It generally has to be a pretty big hold. Wide enough for the centre of your heel to be in the good part of the hold.
If the hold is to the side or smaller in size and having your knee vertical pops the foot off then often times turning the knee out enables you to push into the hold and get a flatter part of the foot on the hold.
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hipclimber
Nov 17, 2008, 3:00 PM
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Thanks for the help,
I definetly understand the toe camming effect. I have to go out and try these things out to fully get them.
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meahtots
Nov 22, 2008, 2:49 AM
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20,000 posts!
you are a god among men.
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dlintz
Nov 22, 2008, 3:27 AM
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meahtots wrote: 20,000 posts! you are a god among men.
I recall Chossy's 8,924th post as perhaps his strongest yet.
d.
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