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ingrowing_whale
Jan 5, 2009, 10:52 PM
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Hey Guys,
I'm gonna start climbing 2 sessions a week indoors having not really climbed for a while. What sort of training should I be doing during those two sessions to get the most out of them and build my strength back up?
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Alphaboth
Jan 6, 2009, 12:04 AM
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I would focus one of the sections on bouldery power moves with some crimps and big moves. The other session I would do some longer routes, relatively easy and focus on technique. Make them full workouts cause you have plenty of rest days.
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Valarc
Jan 6, 2009, 12:19 AM
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I recommend you buy The Self Coached Climber, rather than getting a bunch of random opinions from people on a website.
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shimanilami
Jan 6, 2009, 12:36 AM
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Alphaboth wrote: I would focus one of the sections on bouldery power moves with some crimps and big moves. The other session I would do some longer routes, relatively easy and focus on technique. Make them full workouts cause you have plenty of rest days.
Great post, Alpha.
In all honesty, Ingrowing, don't look to RC.com for introductory level training guidance. We're just a bunch of desk jockeys offering unqualified opinions. Half of our advice won't make any difference at all. The other half will result in injury (see above).
If you're serious about making improvements, get a book on training for climbing (e.g. Training for Climbing or The Self-Coached Climber), and make an honest commitment to sticking with a established training plan.
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timl
Jan 6, 2009, 12:50 AM
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Try Horst's books. They are really good. Training for Climbing and Conditioning for Climbing. If your serious about training, then they provide good material for getting a good idea of what you'll need to do.
First you need to decide what your training for and the time period of when you want to reach that goal. Normally I start out with endurance. Long boring traverses. Then once I establish a base, I begin by adding more local endurance, strength and power. The books will go into all of this in detail. They are worth the investment.
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Alphaboth
Jan 6, 2009, 1:24 AM
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Fuck you man, fuck this site, every fucken thing someone posts gets chewed apart by someone. Why? That training approach is a fine one. At least for me, that's what I'm doing in the winter months. I'm no fucken noob, so fuck off man and worry about your own damn climbing.
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Valarc
Jan 6, 2009, 2:06 AM
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Alphaboth wrote: Fuck you man, fuck this site, every fucken thing someone posts gets chewed apart by someone. Why? That training approach is a fine one. At least for me, that's what I'm doing in the winter months. I'm no fucken noob, so fuck off man and worry about your own damn climbing.
Preserved for posterity
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rhythm164
Jan 6, 2009, 2:44 AM
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Valarc wrote: I recommend you buy The Self Coached Climber, rather than getting a bunch of random opinions from people on a website.
second that
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salamanizer
Jan 6, 2009, 2:58 AM
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Alphaboth wrote: Fuck you man, fuck this site, every fucken thing someone posts gets chewed apart by someone. Why? That training approach is a fine one. At least for me, that's what I'm doing in the winter months. I'm no fucken noob, so fuck off man and worry about your own damn climbing.
Why? Because it's dumbass advice, that's why.
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paclimber12
Jan 6, 2009, 3:10 AM
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Registered: Dec 5, 2005
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Alphaboth wrote: Fuck you man, fuck this site, every fucken thing someone posts gets chewed apart by someone. Why? That training approach is a fine one. At least for me, that's what I'm doing in the winter months. I'm no fucken noob, so fuck off man and worry about your own damn climbing.
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climb4free
Jan 6, 2009, 3:16 PM
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salamanizer wrote: Alphaboth wrote: Fuck you man, fuck this site, every fucken thing someone posts gets chewed apart by someone. Why? That training approach is a fine one. At least for me, that's what I'm doing in the winter months. I'm no fucken noob, so fuck off man and worry about your own damn climbing. Why? Because it's dumbass advice, that's why.
Because the OP stated that they have been away from climbing for a while.
Crimpy + powerful moves[read: steep & dynamic] x just getting back = injury
edti: gender neutrality
(This post was edited by climb4free on Jan 6, 2009, 3:20 PM)
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jaablink
Jan 6, 2009, 4:06 PM
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Play on low angle walls with jugs. don’t jump back into it full force. You will get hurt. Its like playing your guitar, if you don’t use it , you loose it. So it will take time again to condition your body again after a long rest. Start slow on easy stuff. Practice footwork, use large hand holds for a while. Its all about the mileage.
http://www.google.com/...;printsec=frontcover
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Spidermonkey.Rosi
Jan 14, 2009, 10:48 PM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
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I think the advise given on this website is great, so far.
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overlord
Feb 2, 2009, 11:23 AM
Post #14 of 16
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jaablink wrote: Play on low angle walls with jugs. don’t jump back into it full force. You will get hurt. Its like playing your guitar, if you don’t use it , you loose it. So it will take time again to condition your body again after a long rest. Start slow on easy stuff. Practice footwork, use large hand holds for a while. Its all about the mileage. http://www.google.com/...;printsec=frontcover
hahaha had to quote the 'if you dont use it, you loose it 
anyway, what the says is mostly true. youll need to slowly get back into it. focus on proper technique while letting your body adapt to climbing again.
but its not all about the mileage. is the quality of that mileage as well. 1 month of headless jug pulling will get you nowhere (well, youll become a headless jug-puller  ), but a week of thoughtfull training can acomplish a lot.
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johnwesely
Feb 2, 2009, 12:49 PM
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Just climb. After a while you will know what you need to work on it.
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shockabuku
Feb 2, 2009, 1:54 PM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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Alphaboth wrote: Fuck you man, fuck this site, every fucken thing someone posts gets chewed apart by someone. Why? That training approach is a fine one. At least for me, that's what I'm doing in the winter months. I'm no fucken noob, so fuck off man and worry about your own damn climbing.
Ease up on the 'roids, dude.
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