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RobDude
Feb 2, 2009, 7:42 PM
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I'm still pretty new to rock climbing (maybe 2 weeks or so). My climbing has been 100% indoors.
Initially, I had a lot of trouble dealing with heights, just getting up was hard for me. I started following the real routes, my gym begins with 5.5s. I've just been slowly working my way up the various routes, I've been trying to systematically complete all of the lower routes before trying the next number (do all of the 5.6s before attempting a 5.7) - but when it gets crowded, sometimes all that is open is something higher.
So, long story short, I've completed a single 5.9 - the first 5.9 I tried. Later, I attempted another 5.9; but this one seemed....HARD.
With most routes I can sort of 'see' what I 'should' do. But this 5.9 that I've failed...I just don't know what to do. I've been keeping an eye on it; hoping that someone else would complete it and I could see how they've done it - but so far, no luck. I've tried it numerous times now and I'm always stuck at the same point. I've tried to approach that point in different ways - but it doesn't seem to help. I always end up in the same position - unable to reach the next hold.
When you find yourself in this situation - what do you do?
Since this is indoor - the route won't last forever and I'd really like to finish it, or at least learn what I should have done, even if I'm unable to. Would it be 'rude' to strike up a conversation with someone climbing the harder 5.10 5.11 routes and just ask if they'd give me their opinions on the 5.9?
Would it be incredibly pathetic if I were to take photos of the route with my cell phone and post them up here for people to discuss how they'd solve it?
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cush
Feb 2, 2009, 7:57 PM
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sometimes things just stump you for a while then all of a sudden it just clicks and you realize the right sequence of moves. most of the times in a gym the route-setter will put their initials next to the rating of the climb on the tape. you could go up to the front desk of the gym and ask who BLT or whoever is and then ask them for the beta. chances are a picture wouldn't tell us anything we could help you with. especially not one taken from a cell phone camera.
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reg
Feb 2, 2009, 7:59 PM
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nah - just ask for some bata from someone climbing harder then you. most would love the ego trip and ya may even get to tag along outside.
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johnwesely
Feb 2, 2009, 7:59 PM
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Don't take pictures of the route. Ask somebody for help. First, you might make a new friend. Second, you might get a new climbing partner. Third, they will help you with the move. Fourth, people like giving advice because it makes them feel good about themselves.
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Gmburns2000
Feb 2, 2009, 8:01 PM
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you got sandbagged! 
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krusher4
Feb 2, 2009, 8:16 PM
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yeah it happens, I've climbed stacks of 5.12's (sport) but once in jtree I was scared out of my mind and bailed-off on a 5.7 (trad) ;-)
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clews
Feb 2, 2009, 8:32 PM
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I find that the best advice I can give to a new climber when they get stuck on a route is figure out your feet. Generally a 5.9 is just a jug pull with lots of feet, so get your feet nice and high and reach... if your problem isn't getting to the hold, but actually sticking the hold, you could try bouldering to work up your contact strength and learn some technique.
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jeepnphreak
Feb 2, 2009, 8:41 PM
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reg wrote: nah - just ask for some bata from someone climbing harder then you. most would love the ego trip and ya may even get to tag along outside.
When I was a n00b that exactly what I was doing.
Now Iam the one taking n00bs out side.
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shockabuku
Feb 2, 2009, 8:42 PM
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At Inner Strength? Which route? I climb there a few times a week.
It's not rude to ask. Ask one of the people at the desk if you want. Mike, the owner, will probably be more than happy to help.
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limeydave
Feb 2, 2009, 8:49 PM
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In reply to: I always end up in the same position - unable to reach the next hold.
If you aren't super short, you probably need to look for a higher foot.
It's that or a jump (dyno) which is unlikely on 5.9 unless it's to a massive jug.
$0.02
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styndall
Feb 2, 2009, 9:02 PM
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I think that cell phone plan is pretty boss, even if it does reek of social anxiety disorder.
Post it up.
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ladyscarlett
Feb 2, 2009, 9:03 PM
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GeneralZon wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: you got sandbagged! Yes, sandbagged indeed. Although being sandbagged is better than being teabagged!!! 
Yes!! though I wonder what that route would look like....
But if you're stuck on a bit, definitely ask around for some beta - some people might even give it without being asked...Bar that, flail around on the wall a bit, hang and try different body positions that will give you the extension, stability, or body position you need for the move. Sometimes you might even see a foot or hold that you missed earlier. The previous mention of feet is key. While you're hanging, look at where your feet can/need to go, that usually gives you a clue as to what the rest of your body needs to do.
Although not pretty, by any stretch of the imagination, flailing means that you're challenging yourself. One doesn't need to flail all the time, but it's good to have projects. My buddies tell me specifically that if I'm not falling on at least one project at the gym, I'm not really pushing myself past my comfort zone - which is the whole point of projects! I think everyone flails, just some do it prettier than others!
have fun!
ls
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RobDude
Feb 2, 2009, 9:06 PM
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shockabuku wrote: At Inner Strength? Which route? I climb there a few times a week. It's not rude to ask. Ask one of the people at the desk if you want. Mike, the owner, will probably be more than happy to help.
Yeah - it's at Inner Strength! Small world :)
It's tape color is 'green' and it's a 5.9 - as you enter the climbing area it's on the left wall (past the overhang climbs). I think it's rope #7 or 8 - it's in the corner with the door.
Not sure if any of that helps.
It have a very odd looking (at least to me) large, oval shaped hold with some odd looking lines marked on it (reminds me of a crop circle).
The only other thing that I think makes it distinctive is up near the top it has the largest hold I've ever seen - I've never been able to reach it - but it looks like it would take both hands.
Any idea what I'm talking about? :)
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shockabuku
Feb 2, 2009, 9:07 PM
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RobDud wrote: It's tape color is 'green' and it's a 5.9 - as you enter the climbing area it's on the left wall (past the overhang climbs). I think it's rope #7 or 8 - it's in the corner with the door. Not sure if any of that helps. It have a very odd looking (at least to me) large, oval shaped hold with some odd looking lines marked on it (reminds me of a crop circle). The only other thing that I think makes it distinctive is up near the top it has the largest hold I've ever seen - I've never been able to reach it - but it looks like it would take both hands. Any idea what I'm talking about? :)
Nope, but I'll look tonight.
(This post was edited by shockabuku on Feb 2, 2009, 9:09 PM)
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RobDude
Feb 2, 2009, 10:00 PM
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shockabuku wrote: Nope, but I'll look tonight.
Awesome :)
I'm curious to know what you think. This won't make much sense now, but there are two holds under the really big hold - I can get my right hand to the hold on the right; after that - it feels like I can't reach anything else. I end up lunging for the left hand hold but when I do I can never grip it and I fall off the wall.
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djlachelt
Feb 2, 2009, 10:14 PM
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I climb there too. Just ask someone (staff or a regular). Mike is especially good at watching you climb and giving a suggestion that will help you make it past an obstacle.
With those routes in the corner the setter probably wants you to stem.
-Jon
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shockabuku
Feb 2, 2009, 10:29 PM
Post #18 of 26
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Who are you guys?
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mikeboomer12
Feb 2, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Sometimes different styles of climbs. An overhanging climb can seem a lot harder than a vertical climb, especially if you're new.
Don't be afraid to ask for help, beta, but its also a chance to 'work' the problem. As long as its not crazy overhung you should climb up to where you're stuck, try and get by, but if you fall hang and rest and then start again from where you keep falling off. This way you don't burn all your energy at the part you already know how to climb. Also try scrambling past the move using other holds around and try the finish, that also might help you. Good luck...
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RobDude
Feb 3, 2009, 4:56 AM
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I wanted to thank everyone that posted in here....
Anyway - I kept thinking about the route and wanted to try it again; so I went back to the gym and...IT WAS GONE.
Yeah - they reset the routes.
So, the green 5.9 is no longer there; my apologies to anyone who went to Inner Strength tonight looking for it. The 'big hold' I was talking about is now part of a white 5.8 a few ropes to the left - and I was able to do that.
Oh well. Good times :)
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shockabuku
Feb 3, 2009, 11:46 AM
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Yeah, they reset usually in a regular pattern though it's been off during the holiday. Each week (Sunday night/Monday morning) they do a section of about 3-4 ropes worth. Anyway, don't be too bashful, it's okay to ask for input once in a while. You'll might learn something you wouldn't have thought of otherwise.
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cush
Feb 3, 2009, 5:31 PM
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damn, i would kill for my gym to reset that often. where i climb they change an enormous section of the wall at a time but they do it every 3-4 months.
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shockabuku
Feb 3, 2009, 8:56 PM
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cush wrote: damn, i would kill for my gym to reset that often. where i climb they change an enormous section of the wall at a time but they do it every 3-4 months.
Maybe if you kill the right person they'll change more often.
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limeydave
Feb 3, 2009, 9:09 PM
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RobDude wrote: I wanted to thank everyone that posted in here.... Anyway - I kept thinking about the route and wanted to try it again; so I went back to the gym and...IT WAS GONE. Yeah - they reset the routes. So, the green 5.9 is no longer there; my apologies to anyone who went to Inner Strength tonight looking for it. The 'big hold' I was talking about is now part of a white 5.8 a few ropes to the left - and I was able to do that. Oh well. Good times :)
NO!!!!!!
This is an unsatisfactory ending to the story.
Please re-write.
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evanwish
Feb 4, 2009, 11:31 PM
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RobDude wrote: Would it be incredibly pathetic if I were to take photos of the route with my cell phone and post them up here for people to discuss how they'd solve it?
wow... acutally this could be interesting... good way to pass the time.. hahaaa
and also see how many sequences come up..
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