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slab-dyno
Mar 3, 2009, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Feb 15, 2003
Posts: 192
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Its time to start getting in shape for the summer, and I'm sick of trying to train in climbing gyms. So, I'm looking for some areas in the Adirondack area to set up top rope solos.
Specifically, I'd like to find a spot that has a short approach, easy TR setups that I can walk/solo something easy to get to, and has at least one decent 5.10ish crack to run laps on.
Maybe a place like this is too good to be true, but I would love to be able to get some training in on the weekends or for a half day if I have an easy class schedule.
I go to college in Saratoga Springs and would like to find a place within about an hour and a half. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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SeniorCruz
Apr 1, 2009, 9:46 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2009
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this is a park reserve dude so i think you cant bolt top rope. try trad in solo is better. builds an inversed anchors and lets go
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patmay81
Apr 1, 2009, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2006
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a lot of sport climbing areas are in state and national parks. He's not asking about putting any new bolts, only where a good cliff is with top rope bolts already set up.
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zeke_sf
Apr 1, 2009, 10:07 PM
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Registered: Apr 28, 2006
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patmay81 wrote: a lot of sport climbing areas are in state and national parks. He's not asking about putting any new bolts, only where a good cliff is with top rope bolts already set up.
While you are closer than our ESL friend, I just scored well on a reading comprehension test and can therefore confidently report he said nothing about bolts in his post at all.
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Ricstol
Apr 3, 2009, 2:38 AM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2006
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Beer Walls right up to your 5.10ish crack climbing. Right off Route 73 - perfect.
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cclarke
Apr 3, 2009, 3:02 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2003
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I'll second the Beer Walls recommendation. There's an awesome wall of 5.10 cracks to the climber's left of Frosted Mug that are way easy to access and toprope. High quality and pretty long too.
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kmc
Apr 3, 2009, 4:55 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2006
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I was confused by reading these other peoples posts about bolting. I didnt see anything in your post that even suggested that.
The Beer Walls, which has been mentioned already has many options for you.
The Creature wall may be worth checking out as well. Short approach, easy to hike to the top to set up a TR. There are a couple of 5.10s there, some of which might require a dircetional or two, but should be fine to TR solo. The Creature wall is better known for the moderates than harder routes though.
Spiders Web wall might be ok too. The hike is not very long, but a little more strenuous since you are hiking across a talus field. There are not nearly as many options to hike to the top and set up a TR, but on one end of the crag you can easily get to the top, which would allow you to set up a handful of TRs, all in the 5.10 range.
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