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evanwish
Mar 18, 2009, 6:47 PM
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salamanizer wrote: evanwish wrote: hmmm those ones sound pretty awesome. sounds like the .11a offwidth roof i did this weekend. my hardest offwidth so far My overall favorite would have to be Eeyore's Enigma (.10a) at Lover's Leap ...And what .11a OW roof was that? Batmans Nightmare? Pffft! 
batman can't fly.. yeah it'd be a simple 10- squeeze if you can fit in it on the river side of it but i was too big even on empty lungs so i had to traverse all the way accross that thing..
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patmay81
Mar 18, 2009, 7:43 PM
Post #102 of 125
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I just did Moscow, only 5.6/7 (at smith, last weekend). It had some sweet ow sections, but I couldn't enjoy them too much since I didn't know the gear was that big up the entire route. I had several 40'+ run outs, which was VERY unnerving for me.
I also climbed a really awesome 35' splitter ow (maybe 5.10+/11-) at widgi creek in Bend. I don't know the name of it though, but it was probably the best ow I've done to date.
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petsfed
Mar 18, 2009, 9:42 PM
Post #103 of 125
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robdotcalm wrote: When I was a boy we really climbed Orbital Ridge(at Poland Hill in Vedauwoo) right-side-up. None of this silly leavittation stuff.
Rob, I didn't mean that crazy inversion stuff that Bob and Brad and Craig get so much mileage from. I just meant the combo of knee locks and hand stacks.
I've tried to use traditional offwidth technique on Orbital Ridge. I'm certain you'd get quite a laugh watching me do that. But the leavittation techniques aren't just the wacky inversion circus trick stuff, and it even makes easy stuff like the middle offwidth on Edward's Crack or Easy Jam, even easier.
When the size is right, its definitely the better way to climb an offwidth. Mind you, it simply does not work on Fantasia, or the start of Lower Slot, or Main Street, or the final 8 feet of Lower Progressive, but when it works, it works really well. As I recall, I used a ton of good old-fashioned chicken wings, arm bars, heel-toes, and (when all else failed) thrutching on Hammer and Jay's Solo. I understand Big Pink requires the same, but I have the good sense to wait on that one a little while longer.
(for those not aware, these are all at Vedauwoo, which is perhaps the very best place in the country to learn and perfect offwidth techniques)
Speaking of...
Angry, did you ever go back and send Big Pink?
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budman
Mar 18, 2009, 10:22 PM
Post #104 of 125
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Fort Knox on Gold Bar Tower. Didn't have a name when I did it. Just had a location and some beta from a friend. All she said was "You can do it". Busted a rib mid crux. Heard it snap and it hurt to breathe for 3 months. Tipped out #5 is never awe inspiring either. Cool desert OW. Toss up between favorite OW and most memorable tower.
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mojede
Mar 20, 2009, 5:04 AM
Post #105 of 125
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Any of 'em that REQUIRE a kick-through, seem to be the most fun (read favorite) odubs lately. (taped-up, bloody emoticon)
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evanwish
Mar 20, 2009, 5:36 AM
Post #106 of 125
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yeah i've been experimenting more with taping up.. my last one i taped up my tricep and ankles.. i think the tape alone brings down the grade at least a full number.. ha
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mountainhick
Mar 20, 2009, 2:13 PM
Post #107 of 125
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Never got along with OW, but I guess the most memorable was the Diving board in Eldo.
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petsfed
Mar 20, 2009, 3:29 PM
Post #108 of 125
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evanwish wrote: yeah i've been experimenting more with taping up.. my last one i taped up my tricep and ankles.. i think the tape alone brings down the grade at least a full number.. ha
Get high tops. I only ever tape my hands anymore, and then, only lightly. I have, however, taped clear up to my elbows on particularly unrelenting wide-hands corners.
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cracklover
Mar 23, 2009, 4:31 PM
Post #109 of 125
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rhei wrote: Ambler wrote: Half Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon. Has a scary reputation, which makes it all the more fun when you find out that it's really a hike. All depends on your size. Bigger folk find it an off-width (or layback), smaller bodies get inside and chimney. Either way, the runout is still serious.
This thread needs more pics! I've done a few of these "favorite" OWs, but this one is probably my personal fave. Plus, it's the only one I have a photo of!
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Mar 23, 2009, 4:34 PM)
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billcoe_
Mar 30, 2009, 3:30 PM
Post #110 of 125
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I hate all of them, but dislike this one the least. I had spyed this line, and bought a couple of wide pieces of pro to do it and had been dreading doing it. Had to wait for the snow to clear, so I had a long time to quake in fear and pee my pants repeatedly as I considered the possibility of dieing in the outback.
Spring came, snow melted. Walked up, did it ground up, and my 2 buddies, both stronger (and better looking too) than me had a more difficult time following it.
Named it "Bride of Wyde". Thanks for the mispelling tip Brutus!
I never had any wide pro before, so it was quite a nice surprise to be overprotecting something like this for once.
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cracklover
Mar 30, 2009, 3:41 PM
Post #111 of 125
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Congrats!
GO
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ahab
Mar 30, 2009, 6:33 PM
Post #112 of 125
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Wide Pride
5.10c
RRG, Ky
doesn't see a whole lot of action due to it's obscure location, but if you're into OW and in the red you should drag your crew out to lost ridge for a healthy dose.
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billcoe_
Mar 31, 2009, 3:48 PM
Post #113 of 125
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Ahab, wide pride looks like you could stem off the tree and chimney for rests:-)
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evanwish
Apr 2, 2009, 3:13 PM
Post #114 of 125
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ahab wrote: doesn't see a whole lot of action due to it's obscure location....
anybody here climbed Pratt's Crack near Bishop?
I'm hoping to climb it in a few weeks...
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brutusofwyde
Apr 2, 2009, 5:10 PM
Post #115 of 125
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Pratt's... classic. Bring #6 and larger cams, up to #4 Big Bros.
Good line.
Do it to the top for full credit.
Brutus
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evanwish
Apr 9, 2009, 4:28 AM
Post #116 of 125
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ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good?
any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11
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petsfed
Apr 9, 2009, 2:11 PM
Post #117 of 125
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evanwish wrote: ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good? any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11
Get more of the regular cams. BD #5 and 6, or Friends #5 and 6. If you can find it, get an old style (so, non C4) #4 camalot.
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dlintz
Apr 9, 2009, 2:46 PM
Post #118 of 125
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petsfed wrote: I got on Jay's Solo out at the Short Wall last fall with edl. That thing is an absolute beast. If you do not have your technique absolutely dialed, you will get your ass handed to you by a 30 foot 5.10 offwidth. Since its so fuckin' sustained, it got respect from me. Another one is Orbital Ridge at Poland Hill. 10b #6 friend leavittation until it joins up with Skull. Incredibly pretty. There's a sweet 5.11 offwidth roof boulder problem out at Coyote Rocks that's worth doing if you're there, but its only 2 or 3 moves and then its over. Not really my favorite by any means. The Warden at the Dungeon though... I've yet to finish it, but it is soooo good. The first pitch of Hammer is really good, but at a pretty reasonable grade. I really enjoyed it.
Can you be more specific where that boulder problem is at Coyote Rocks? I'd like to give it a go next time I'm out that way.
d.
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petsfed
Apr 9, 2009, 2:53 PM
Post #119 of 125
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Its immediately right (like the crack is formed by another boulder leaning against it) of Heart of Stone. Davin's book says 5.12. I don't think its that hard.
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evanwish
Apr 11, 2009, 6:16 AM
Post #120 of 125
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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petsfed wrote: evanwish wrote: ok so i [only] have a #6, a #9 valley giant and a #4 BB... that good? any tips or recomendations for this one? I've never really done long offwidths, just a bunch of 20-30' 5.10's and a short section of .11 Get more of the regular cams. BD #5 and 6, or Friends #5 and 6. If you can find it, get an old style (so, non C4) #4 camalot.
thanks man!
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angry
Apr 11, 2009, 10:14 AM
Post #121 of 125
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Since I last posted to this thread 5 years ago, I suppose an update is in order.
-Amplitude 12a/b, location undisclosed, a changing corners roof requiring a right foot inversion and a couple feet later a left foot inversion. Cool stuff.
-The Creek 3. The progression goes Big Guy, Big Baby, Have a Cow. After that, you know all you'll ever need to know about vertical OW splitters. All three are excellent.
-Crumbling Reality because it's mine, it's awesome, and I'm a little bit proud of it.
-Bellyful of Bad Berries, 13a, Indian Creek. I've come withing one fall of sending it a few times. Climbing long stretches on this thing without falling is just about the most rewarding climbing I've done. I don't know if I'll be psyched or let down when I send it. Probably both.
-Road Warrior on Mt. Evans. As beautiful as it is pissed.
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angry
Apr 11, 2009, 10:21 AM
Post #122 of 125
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I just realized I didn't mention a single route in Vedauwoo.
Think of it in parable.
A young man had failing grades but a desire to learn. He hired the best tutor money could buy, a genius in her own right, to teach him. He studied for years and years but he learned. Finally he went on to do great things. Even though he got the credit, deep down, he knew that this was all the direct result of his tutor. He also had lots and lots of scars.
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punk_rocker333
Apr 13, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #123 of 125
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[quote "brutusofwyde"]9th pitch of Magic Mushroom.
Honorable mentions:
East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon
Slack Left, Yosemite
Ipecac, Joshua Tree
Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall
Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks
First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect
Brutus[/quote]
What kind of pro was there for Vertical Turtle? That thing looks really awesome and I've never heard of anyone climbing it.
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evanwish
Apr 18, 2009, 1:14 AM
Post #124 of 125
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we just went to go climb mt. Williamson and Pratt's crack on the way back... unfortutately though by dad fractured his ankle on the aproach to the mountain so we never got a chance to get on Pratt's Crack 
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brutusofwyde
Apr 20, 2009, 8:24 PM
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punk_rocker333 wrote: brutusofwyde wrote: 9th pitch of Magic Mushroom. Honorable mentions: East Face Dihedrals on Regge Pole, Little Slide Canyon Slack Left, Yosemite Ipecac, Joshua Tree Horror Frake, Salathe' Wall Vertical Turtle, City of Rocks First pitch of Steck-Salathe', for sandbag effect Brutus What kind of pro was there for Vertical Turtle? That thing looks really awesome and I've never heard of anyone climbing it.
Big stuff... Big bros and big cams. I think the #4 Bros were too big, though, because higher I used one on a bolt when I ran out of draws...
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