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juegas
Jul 22, 2009, 6:06 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2007
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Hey all,
Me and some buddies are heading out to Red Rocks next week and are hoping someone can point us to some classic climbs.
what we are looking for: multi pitch trad 5.5-5.8 (something adventurous)
Also cool sport areas.
Thanks
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cracklover
Jul 22, 2009, 6:08 PM
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How much experience do you have with things like runouts, tricky routefinding, and no fixed gear or anchors?
GO
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raymondjeffrey
Jul 23, 2009, 6:50 PM
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My suggestion is go climb Johnny Vegas 5.7. About 45 minutes approach (for the first timer and about 20-30 for repeaters or locals). Johnny Vegas has ample opps for gear placement and an occasional bolt (if memory serves). It's 4 pitches and the last pitch is a 5.2 or something like that. Then rap the Solar Slab gulley. After Johnny Vegas you'll have a very good idea of what to tackle next. Have fun, oh and be mindful of the temperature. 110 degrees this time of year is common so just know that.
Carry on,
jefro
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cracklover
Jul 23, 2009, 7:11 PM
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Well, no response to my earlier question, and not much time left before you leave.
So, I'd suggest Tunnel Vision and Olive Oil.
Both are super-classic. Both require some real climbing skills.
Have fun!
GO
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redrocker
Jul 23, 2009, 10:18 PM
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You do realize how hot it will be at Red Rock in July, right? Climbing anything in the sun will be virtually impossible as the rock will be too hot to touch and even if it weren't temps at 105+ will be unbearable. Climbing Johnny Vegas, Solar Slab, Olive Oil would be miserable, even dangerous. Tunnel Vision is possible in the afternoon after the wall goes in the shade.
There are shady routes to climb at certain times of the day but there's no escaping the fact that either your approach or return will be a scorcher. Unless, of course, you hike in before sunrise and out after sunset. Late exit passes for some areas are available before 4:30pm on the day of, so if you think you might be in the loop road after closing I'd highly recommend calling in for one. Otherwise you've got to be out by 8:00pm this time of year or you risk a hefty fine.
edit-I assume you have a guidebook for Red Rock. If so the number for a late exit pass will be in there, if not Desert Rock Sports on W. Charleston has them all (I recommend the newest one by Jerry Handren). The staff at DRS are very knowledgeable and will be able to provide good beta for climbing RR in July if you're determined to do so.
(This post was edited by redrocker on Jul 29, 2009, 2:00 PM)
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jt512
Jul 23, 2009, 11:00 PM
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juegas wrote: Hey all, Me and some buddies are heading out to Red Rocks next week and are hoping someone can point us to some classic climbs. what we are looking for: multi pitch trad 5.5-5.8 (something adventurous) Also cool sport areas. Thanks
How'd you decide to pick just about the hottest week of the year to go climb in the desert?
Jay
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vegastradguy
Jul 23, 2009, 11:11 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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juegas wrote: Hey all, Me and some buddies are heading out to Red Rocks next week and are hoping someone can point us to some classic climbs. what we are looking for: multi pitch trad 5.5-5.8 (something adventurous) Also cool sport areas. Thanks
cool sport areas= Mt. Charleston, the only place tolerable all day.
as far as multipitch in RR...Tunnelvision will be shady most of the day, and has a relatively short approach.
Frogland goes into the shade at 1ish, but its 6 pitches, so you need to climb at a decent pace.
dark shadows goes into the shade at like..10am i think. something around that time. its only 3 pitches, though- and not worth the 1hr hike in full sun, imho.
everything else will be too hot.
you'd be MUCH better off to play in Red Rock in October or November when temps are perfect on most of the rock in the park.
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dhorgan
Jul 24, 2009, 5:15 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2007
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Tuolumne or Lumpy Ridge...or Mammoth if you want to clip some bolts (Clark Canyon is pretty fun at the grade you're looking at). Tenaya Peak in Tuolumne is a great easy day out, and not as crowded as Cathedral will certainly be.
But for Vegas? There are a number of very nice movie theaters there. That'd be the route I'd pick in Vegas this weekend! As someone pointed out above, even if you can find a shady objective (and Dark Shadows is certainly that), the approach will be some serious suffering.
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