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zchandran
Jul 30, 2009, 6:47 AM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2008
Posts: 120
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With Draper's Bluff and most of Giant City closed, Jackson Falls is the only reasonably close location I have to climb. I want to practice trad placement on really easy routes in the 5.2-5.4 range, so that I can downclimb if I get sketched. I'm not finding much at Jackson that fits the bill. What's the best candidate that's a reasonable drive from St. Louis? I've already practiced placements at ground level, I want to move to the next level of where placements have consequences, but the odds of falling are slim. Even the couple of 5.6 trad routes at Jackson like Sprinkles are significantly under-graded.
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dolphja
Aug 9, 2009, 4:48 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2001
Posts: 298
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jackson falls, for the time being, is probably going to be your best bet. there is however a new cliff line that a few of us local mid-missourians have been given access to just south of hannibal missouri. i'll be posting a little information on it on the East Central Missouri board to try to muster some folks together to go check this out this sunday august 16th.
climb on
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A-Bowl
Aug 10, 2009, 10:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 76
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Grow balls. Climb a 5.9 or something with clean falls and dont worry about falling... gear works. Quickest way to trust it. Just over protect near the bottom and avoid ground fall potential and ledges. Thats why steeper and cleaner is better than chunky 5.2s to 5.6s. Try to roll with atleast 2 pieces between you and an impact. You could also pre rehearse on top rope... cuz it sounds like you want to practice placements without glory. Oh and im sorry that you live in missouri.... just get really strong in the gym and move somewhere better. I started at upper limits and jackson falls myself. good luck
(This post was edited by A-Bowl on Aug 10, 2009, 10:25 PM)
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