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alleybird
Dec 2, 2002, 6:36 PM
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I have a friend who is planning on climbing the Tetons in about a year, any tips or ideas? MustangAlley24@hotmail.com
[ This Message was edited by: polarwid on 2002-12-02 12:16 ]
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marcel
Dec 2, 2002, 6:51 PM
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It's been over 30 years since I climbed in the Tetons. But, I can tell you there is a ton of cool climbs on the Guides Wall. And of course the Exum Route is a real classic! Have fun!
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olebetsy
Dec 2, 2002, 7:16 PM
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A friend of mine is an Exum guide in the Tetons, and she has me talked into doing the Complete Exum with her as my guide next summer. It isn't realy hard climbing, but it will be about 22 pitches starting at 11,400 feet. Fun exposure. She did it a bunch last season, and thinks I'll really enjoy it. She told me just to stay in shape over the winter. There's no way of knowing ahead of time how I'll do at altitude, but she says you can do some acclimatizing for three or four days nearby, and then give it a shot. So, if your friend wants a guided experience, he can check out the Exum guide service; there are others, too, I think. My friend says, too, that you can do it without a guide, just be careful about route-finding. Also, if you don't want any snow, late July, early August is a good time. I'm looking forward to it. Hope your firend has fun.
Betsy
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curt
Dec 2, 2002, 9:23 PM
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Besides various routes up the principal peaks, be sure to check out some of the nice multi-pitch trad routes. Take a look at "The Snazz" and vicinity in Death Canyon and also things like "Irene's Arete." Irenes' is my favorite climb in the Tetons so far.
Curt
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fitch
Dec 2, 2002, 10:04 PM
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I have climbed in the tetons with Exum Mountain Guides (http://www.exumguides.com/)and I can't say enough good things about those guys. Their knowledge of the sport, the area, the saftey, and the routes was phenominal. I would say they would be the best way to become knowledgeable about climbing there. Going with a guide may not appeal to everybody, but it has been an incredible experience for me. rob
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hyhuu
Dec 3, 2002, 1:52 PM
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Alleybird, I climbed the Grand in Sept and here are my tips for climbing the Grand:
1. Plan for extra time on your trip in case the weather doesn't cooperate and for acclimatization if you are from flatland. Plus, there are many other things to see and do out there beside climbing.
2. Go light and fast: minimal racks, use rope tie-in method to build anchor. Get a good and light pair of approach shoes and use them to climb, leave your rock shoe behind. Practice and know your system with your partner well before heading out there.
3. Be physcially fit. Start early, avoiding the bottleneck behind a large group (sometimes).
4. Ask the climbing rangers lots and lots of question.
5. If you have time, recon the starting of the route and the route itself because it might be difficult to find the start in the dark.
6. Have fun and be safe. Make sound judgements if the weather turns bad. The mountain will be there for your next try.
7. If you have time, check out Cirque of the Towers in the Wind Rivers Range, it's awesome. Not to mention 2 of the North America 50 Classic Climbs are there. The Grand is also one.
Good luck
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biggernhell
Dec 3, 2002, 2:06 PM
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Route finding, route finding, route finding.
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jgill
Dec 4, 2002, 3:07 AM
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Curt's suggestion is right on track. John Dietschy and Irene Ortenberger made the first ascent of Irene's Arete in the late 1950s. I talked with them, then went up and made the second. There a a number of variations you can do, but by the easiest way, I think it is about 5.8. The rock is really good, and there is a real knife edge section.
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flamer
Dec 4, 2002, 6:06 PM
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In July 2001 I onsight soloed the upper Exum and the Owens Spaulding in a day (10:55 car to car). A couple of things I remember, First this was one of the best days I've spent in the mountains. 2Nd the Grand is a very complex mountain, ridges large and small everywhere! When you get to the rock band just before the lower saddle look up at the Exum ridge and make a mental note where wall street is and how the gully systems work once you start in them you won't be able to see what's what very well.
Have fun!
Josh
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alleybird
Dec 4, 2002, 6:17 PM
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Thank you all so much. I also need to know some of the snow conditions out there, and what the easiest route up the middle Teton is. My friend who's climbing asked me to find out some names of routes for beginners. He's been climbing for a few years, but he's never been ice climbing. Thanx! Alley
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agrauch
Dec 4, 2002, 8:38 PM
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The easiest route up the Middle is the Southwest Couloir. I've only descended the route, a few years ago in July, and don't remember there being snow in the couloir itself. But, there was quite a bit in south fork of Garnet Canyon so an axe was handy.
There will also be snow on the approaches to most peaks until late June. Depending on the route and the year there can be snow even later. If you are looking to avoid snow travel, early August is a great time.
The East Ridge of Cube Point, 5.4, is a great beginners route. The East Ridge of Cloudveil Dome, 5.2 ish, is a lot of fun and would probably make a good intro to Teton route finding.
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alleybird
Dec 11, 2002, 4:44 PM
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Thank you all so much. Andrew really appreciates your help. He's really putting stuff together and trying to figure out what to do. He's got a guide and couple other ppl planning to go. Please keep in touch w/ me, and I'll let you know how this all gets pieced together,and I may ask for more important info later. Feel free to e-mail me any time RaftClimbeFreak@yahoo.com or PM me.. Thanks again! Alley
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alleybird
Feb 13, 2003, 6:52 PM
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hey guys! andrew almost has everything he needs, and is now talking about goin a little sooner, maybe the end of this year? what's it like between nov. and march?
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