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jose32
Sep 2, 2009, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2009
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Hi,
I'm trying to put together a basic crack climbing cheat sheet for myself, that lists the most common size / hand position combos (for now covering below hand/hand hand/fist sizes). I don't get to try cracks that often and find I'm often trying to remember the most common hand position for a given size, when I do get a chance to crack climb.
I want a cheat sheet for myself until it's all in my head. Not that these will necessarily let me send, but it's a starting point at least :-D
Suggestions / addtions comments welcome. If I ever master these I might try to make a simple pdf with photos of hand postions to go along with something like this and toss it up on the web someplace.
- Finger Tips (just accepts finger tips below first knuckle)
1. Pinky jam - thumbs up, pinky and ring fingers as deep in jam as possible
2. Liebacking
- First Knuckle
???
- Good Fingers (accepts full fingers well)
1. Thumb down knuckles of index finger in constriction like stopper
2. If no constriction try above with turning arm to cam
- Off Fingers (too big for finger jams above, too small for 'thin hands')
1. Thumb down stack index, middle, ring fingers, cam with forearm
2. Butteryfly jam
3. Thumb up 'phony hand jam' (counterpressure between fingers and hand, marginal)
4. Thumb up 'pork stopper jam' (jam fleshy party of hand beneath pinky)
3. Liebacking
- Thin Hands (almost but can't quite get hand jam)
1. Thumbs up, squeeze fingers into crack to create opposing pressure on back of hand forcing thumb into palm
2. Stuff meaty part of thumb in jam with palm muscles
3. Thumbs down fingers angled down, torque arm down
- Perfect Hands
1. Hand Jam - Above constriction ideal, else squeeze thumb into palm to create opposing forces
- Cupped or Cammed hands (between perfect hands below fist jams)
1. Cup or cam hands
- Fist Jams
1. Thumb into palm (tight fists)
2. Thumb over fingers like punching (standard fist jam)
3. Teacup fist jam (wider fist thumb on side looks like teacup)
4. Finger bridge possible alternative to teacup fist jam
(Credit to various John Long and Craig Luebben books for much of the above info.)
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bennydh
Sep 2, 2009, 7:03 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2005
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Crack climbing isn't text book. Sure there are things to know, but you should do what feels most secure without limiting your upward mobility. I mean its not like you are going to tape this to your wrist like a QB or something right?
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rock_ranger
Sep 2, 2009, 7:17 PM
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Registered: Feb 13, 2005
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Somewhat of a "cheat" I guess. From IC guidebook version 2 by Fred Knapp.
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jose32
Sep 2, 2009, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2009
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bennydh wrote: Crack climbing isn't text book. Sure there are things to know, but you should do what feels most secure without limiting your upward mobility. I mean its not like you are going to tape this to your wrist like a QB or something right?
totally agree. Just saying, prefer to start with what many people have found to work in a given circumstance, and then try new things from there, vs reinvent the wheel.
After going out two or three times and forgetting about many of these holds I could have tried or started to practice, personally I just like to have a quick refresher list is all. That's what works for me.
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jose32
Sep 2, 2009, 7:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2009
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rock_ranger wrote: Somewhat of a "cheat" I guess. From IC guidebook version 2 by Fred Knapp.
thanks!
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bennydh
Sep 2, 2009, 7:25 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2005
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Understood. After a while that cheat sheet is all in your head and you will naturally do what is necessary. Have fun and stay safe.
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