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QSNelson
Sep 6, 2009, 3:46 AM
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Just looking for opinons on a good next level shoe after the having worn through my defys. I do mostly bouldering with periods of sport climbing in between. Looking for something a little more technical without being overly aggressive. For example my brother bought me a pair of Scarpa Boosters and were as the shoes are nice I feel like they are "too" aggressive for what I need right now. Some of the ones I am looking at right now are -La Sportiva Miura -Scarpa Vision -Five.Ten Anasazi -Five.Ten Galilo -La Sportiva Cobra I'm leaning more towards a lace up because I like the secure feeling they offer but am willing to hear from those wiser then myself.
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mikebee
Sep 6, 2009, 4:04 AM
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How about some La Sportiva Katanas? I'm a big fan velcro shoes, so although the Miuras are great shoes, I'd want something that comes on an off more easily.
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rhythm164
Sep 6, 2009, 4:05 AM
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the Anasazi lace ups are hands down the best shoe I've ever had.
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QSNelson
Sep 6, 2009, 4:09 AM
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mikebee wrote: How about some La Sportiva Katanas? I'm a big fan velcro shoes, so although the Miuras are great shoes, I'd want something that comes on an off more easily. I tired those and they actually didn't fit my foot all that well. I thought it was just La Sportivas but then I tried the Miura and those fits so I dunno
rhythm164 wrote: the Anasazi lace ups are hands down the best shoe I've ever had. Are you talking about the Red, Green, or White ones? I thought about the lace ups but every review I read mentioned a baggy heal which is why I can wear the Evolv Pontas
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rhythm164
Sep 6, 2009, 4:58 AM
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I have the pinks, the heal is not particularly baggy. I've heard this too, but I've never had an issue. The white ones are the new version and the heals are supposedly alot snugger, although I've never tried them on.
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Urban_Cowboy
Sep 6, 2009, 6:05 AM
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I've had a couple sets of lace ups, currently have the Miura VS, which are great, had the lace up Miuras before these, guarantee the laces will break in those. Velcro shoes are fine, I was skeptical too. My next set of shoes will probly be a set of Mythos, but not because of the closure system, just looking for a slightly more comfortable shoe.
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QSNelson
Sep 6, 2009, 6:20 AM
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Urban_Cowboy wrote: I've had a couple sets of lace ups, currently have the Miura VS, which are great, had the lace up Miuras before these, guarantee the laces will break in those. Velcro shoes are fine, I was skeptical too. My next set of shoes will probly be a set of Mythos, but not because of the closure system, just looking for a slightly more comfortable shoe. Why would the laces break if I'm just bouldering and sport climbing wouldn't that be more of a crack climbing problem? I guess I don't understand how they would get rubbed to the breaking point, or are they just weak laces and break from tightening?
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Urban_Cowboy
Sep 6, 2009, 6:29 AM
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The sheath of the Miura laces are incredibly weak. Everyone I've known that had a set ended up replacing them with accessory cord. Not sure why La Sportiva didn't choose a replacement for a known problem... But they were great shoes.
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QSNelson
Sep 6, 2009, 6:33 AM
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O that is a weird problem. If you dont't mind how far down did you size in the mirua lace ups? My shoe size is a 9 1/2 and i tried a 8 1/2 and the felt pretty good. should I go down another half size?
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Urban_Cowboy
Sep 6, 2009, 6:37 AM
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Go as small as you can tolerate, lol. I don't remember what size they were, but they would become painful after a while. One of the reasons I'm leaning toward the Mythos as my next shoe.
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angry
Sep 6, 2009, 11:26 AM
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What's wrong with the Defy? If I had to only have one model of shoe, that would be it. A soft comfortable shoe that edges and climbs cracks and sport. Get a Pontas, it's more precise and edges a little better. You should probably get a Defy and Pontas, and only put the Pontas on for harder routes.
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sidepull
Sep 6, 2009, 2:58 PM
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What is "the next level"?
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rtwilli4
Sep 6, 2009, 5:43 PM
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sidepull wrote: What is "the next level"? A6+
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newriverE
Sep 6, 2009, 6:03 PM
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The next shoe you get should be the one that fits your foot shape the best. Every big climbing shoe company makes a model that is good for "mostly bouldering with some periods of sport climbing in between. It will depend on things like, is your foot wide or narrow. Low arch or high arch. Long toes or short toes. All of these variables effect shoe fitting. If you have a wide front foot with a lower arch usually that means a five ten shoe will work well (like the anasazi velcro or the verde) if you have a narrow foot with a high arch try the sportiva miura vs or the testarossa. the optimus prime fits a lot of foot shapes well, but make sure and size it near your street size or it will not do what it was made to do. most people size that shoe too small. or if you have a really wide foot or long toes try the acopa merlin. it's an excellent all leather aggressive shoe. bottom line, go to a good climbing shop and put your feet into the shoes. i've had lots of models that i wanted to have work for my foot shape but didn't. don't settle for a poor fitting shoe.
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QSNelson
Sep 6, 2009, 8:45 PM
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angry wrote: What's wrong with the Defy? If I had to only have one model of shoe, that would be it. A soft comfortable shoe that edges and climbs cracks and sport. Get a Pontas, it's more precise and edges a little better. You should probably get a Defy and Pontas, and only put the Pontas on for harder routes. The Defys arn't bad by any means but I would like something that edges a little better and is slightly more aggressive. Only reason Im even looking to replace is my Defys have a hole in the rand and I want to try something different. I tried the pontas but it seems like on most Evolvs when I get a good fit in the forefoot and toes I have this odd air pocket in my heel, that was my problem with the Pontas.
sidepull wrote: What is "the next level"? the level after the last I cant afford the gear
newriverE wrote: The next shoe you get should be the one that fits your foot shape the best. Every big climbing shoe company makes a model that is good for "mostly bouldering with some periods of sport climbing in between. It will depend on things like, is your foot wide or narrow. Low arch or high arch. Long toes or short toes. All of these variables effect shoe fitting. If you have a wide front foot with a lower arch usually that means a five ten shoe will work well (like the anasazi velcro or the verde) if you have a narrow foot with a high arch try the sportiva miura vs or the testarossa. the optimus prime fits a lot of foot shapes well, but make sure and size it near your street size or it will not do what it was made to do. most people size that shoe too small. or if you have a really wide foot or long toes try the acopa merlin. it's an excellent all leather aggressive shoe. bottom line, go to a good climbing shop and put your feet into the shoes. i've had lots of models that i wanted to have work for my foot shape but didn't. don't settle for a poor fitting shoe. I have a hard time classifying my foot but I'd say fat forefoot, skinny ankle, lower arch. I'm going to try on a few pairs of Anasazi and Galilo and see how they fit. In the Acopa area what about the Spectre I saw those shoes earlier and they kinda interested me but havn't seen or heard of anyone using them so no real feedback.
(This post was edited by QSNelson on Sep 6, 2009, 8:46 PM)
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tobym
Sep 6, 2009, 8:52 PM
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what would you recommend for a really,really wide forefoot, with very short toes, and a low arch?
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tobym
Sep 7, 2009, 6:58 PM
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sorry Mr Nelson
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rhythm164
Sep 7, 2009, 8:28 PM
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Wow, were you on the floor kicking and crying when you wrote that?
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skibum14
Sep 7, 2009, 8:35 PM
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If you tried the Miuras, and they fit, what's the problem? Fit in a climbing shoe is obviously important; I'd not buy shoes over the internet without trying them on first. So, again, if the Miura fits and you like it, what's the problem? It's a fine shoe for pretty much everything - unfortunately, it doesn't fit me. I'm not trying to be a jerk here, but I think climbing shoes are too personal to expect a decent response to this question. Go try them all on, talk to the guy at the gear shop, and decide which ones you like the best. It's as simple as that.
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QSNelson
Sep 8, 2009, 3:24 AM
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tobym wrote: sorry Mr Nelson I kid I kid
rhythm164 wrote: Wow, were you on the floor kicking and crying when you wrote that? Well laying in the corner in the fetal position but thats pretty much the same thing no?
skibum14 wrote: If you tried the Miuras, and they fit, what's the problem? Fit in a climbing shoe is obviously important; I'd not buy shoes over the internet without trying them on first. So, again, if the Miura fits and you like it, what's the problem? It's a fine shoe for pretty much everything - unfortunately, it doesn't fit me. I'm not trying to be a jerk here, but I think climbing shoes are too personal to expect a decent response to this question. Go try them all on, talk to the guy at the gear shop, and decide which ones you like the best. It's as simple as that. Thanks I think I've narrowed it down to either the Miuras or the Acopa Merlins. Thanks for the input guys.
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xaniel2000
Sep 10, 2009, 2:15 PM
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Next level of Evolv shoes would be the Predators or Es Pontas. Preds are great for steep overhang, Pontas are a little more well-rounded.
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QSNelson
Sep 10, 2009, 4:16 PM
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Funny enough I went with a shoe I hadn't even really considered before. The Evolv Optimus Primes. Had a friend who uses them for general boulder and sport climbing and they seemed not as down turned as I thought they were originally. I tried his on and they felt great, they only down side that everyones been telling me is that they are pretty bad on pockets. Now that being said I don't do alot of pocket climbing and for the few times I do I still have the Scarpa Boosters which should work good for that. Thanks to all the gave input.
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newriverE
Sep 28, 2009, 11:36 PM
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acopa specter or merlin
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