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jakedatc
Sep 29, 2009, 1:29 AM
Post #26351 of 26795
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Oh and drop knees, knee bars, and heel hooks will get you much further at rumney than any type of stemming
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carabiner96
Sep 29, 2009, 1:34 AM
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Hakf a bittle gone. not sure i have the stami a.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 29, 2009, 1:36 AM
Post #26353 of 26795
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carabiner96 wrote: Hakf a bittle gone. not sure i have the stami a. Doubtful. Good effort though.
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wanderlustmd
Sep 29, 2009, 1:44 AM
Post #26355 of 26795
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jakedatc wrote: Oh and drop knees, knee bars, and heel hooks will get you much further at rumney than any type of stemming I stemmed out on the slot near the top of 100% columbian. My belayer called me a "trad climber"... He was just jealous he didn't think of it first.
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carabiner96
Sep 29, 2009, 1:45 AM
Post #26356 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: jakedatc wrote: Oh and drop knees, knee bars, and heel hooks will get you much further at rumney than any type of stemming I stemmed out on the slot near the top of 100% columbian. My belayer called me a "trad climber"... He was just jealous he didn't think of it first. you'tre also rtall. fukker.
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wanderlustmd
Sep 29, 2009, 1:45 AM
Post #26357 of 26795
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carabiner96 wrote: Hakf a bittle gone. not sure i have the stami a. hahaha
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jakedatc
Sep 29, 2009, 1:48 AM
Post #26358 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: jakedatc wrote: Oh and drop knees, knee bars, and heel hooks will get you much further at rumney than any type of stemming I stemmed out on the slot near the top of 100% columbian. My belayer called me a "trad climber"... He was just jealous he didn't think of it first. I stem for the beginning deadpoint/dyno but i don't remember any stem at the top
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snoopy138
Sep 29, 2009, 2:00 AM
Post #26359 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: This ski talk is trooly terrible. Anyone who thinks that winter activities should be anything beyond drinking beer and climbing limestone in Mexico should be arrested and taken to re-education camps. Anyone attempting to arrest me for drinking and ice climbing will be gruesomely decapitated with an ice tool and possibly a deadman anchor. I thought you were supposed to be peaceful. I knew that IVAW article was misrepresenting teh facts.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 29, 2009, 2:07 AM
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snoopy138 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: This ski talk is trooly terrible. Anyone who thinks that winter activities should be anything beyond drinking beer and climbing limestone in Mexico should be arrested and taken to re-education camps. Anyone attempting to arrest me for drinking and ice climbing will be gruesomely decapitated with an ice tool and possibly a deadman anchor. I thought you were supposed to be peaceful. I knew that IVAW article was misrepresenting teh facts. I'm peaceful. Until you get between me and my beer.
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dr_feelgood
Sep 29, 2009, 2:32 AM
Post #26361 of 26795
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I'm guessing that biner has been done in by half a bottle of wine.
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carabiner96
Sep 29, 2009, 2:36 AM
Post #26362 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: I'm guessing that biner has been done in by half a bottle of wine. its gone, beyatxch/
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dr_feelgood
Sep 29, 2009, 2:39 AM
Post #26363 of 26795
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carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: I'm guessing that biner has been done in by half a bottle of wine. its gone, beyatxch/ Impressive
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carabiner96
Sep 29, 2009, 3:03 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: I'm guessing that biner has been done in by half a bottle of wine. its gone, beyatxch/ Impressive you've seen it done bforr.
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epoch
Moderator
Sep 29, 2009, 3:04 AM
Post #26365 of 26795
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Rain & thunder... yippie i'm going to be awake for a while...
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clausti
Sep 29, 2009, 3:07 AM
Post #26366 of 26795
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jakedatc wrote: chossmonkey wrote: jakedatc wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Jack shitz pantz in rage!!!!!!111 Y? You don't pay attention do you? We will be at the Red. I didn't make that connekshun. Come to Rumney! Why would we do that? Rumney sucks compared to the Red (sorry, but the Red is pretty rad and has at least 15x as much rock). Why is it that like every picture I see of Rumney it looks like the route has a) some big ledgefall potential, and 2) some dihedral wall that gets stemmed off of, even on the 5.13s. I would like to check the place out sometime, preferably when I am in good power/bouldering shape. I don't think that's a good representation of how rumney climbs. I've never been afraid i was going to hit a ledge. there is stemming on stuff that's in dihedrals but that isnt a majority no ledges or stems on Predator ;) [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/53/16/106235316_large_75a775.jpg[/image] 1. that picture is tilted to make it look steeper. 2. That is the only route like that. It is NOT tilted.. it's freaking steep. http://mountainproject.com/...ange_crush/105884551 Jay conway being a nut [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/72/61/105877261_large_ef221e.jpg[/image] Lee doing the Man Overboard bat hang... [image]http://mountainproject.com/images/57/11/106005711_large_644201.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/12/75/106031275_medium_7dc182.jpg[/image] that picture is both tilted and on a fisheye. also, possibly worse belay ever?
(This post was edited by clausti on Sep 29, 2009, 3:08 AM)
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camhead
Sep 29, 2009, 3:17 AM
Post #26367 of 26795
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Why was this even bolted? It looks terrible! Like, 5.8 choss to a v3+ move that climbs like it was set by the tall campusing meatheads in basketball shorts at the college climbing wall.
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jakedatc
Sep 29, 2009, 5:31 AM
Post #26369 of 26795
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Not a fish eye... not tilted. rocky ground is angled up towards the base of the wall like > Jay and Jay belay each other all the time. he's in a bomber knee bar rest. The route is 70ish degrees overhanging Joe kinder on it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E5L7Bow_sVY Kevin J soloing it or the one next to it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCFG-d6Ldl4 you should try it to see how V3 pulling the roof is stronger people than you have been spanked hard Jay it was most likely taken from the start ledge. so yea.. straight up. anyway.. make a trip sometime. Pro's from all over the world don't show up for nothing.
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chossmonkey
Sep 29, 2009, 10:29 AM
Post #26370 of 26795
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carabiner96 wrote: I think I may have to retire the fleece squirell suit. I love it, but I don't wear it too often and it takes up a lot of room in the suitcase. I'll wear it this weekend at rumney and then donate it. *sniff*. Oh well, means I can bring my penguin costume to the ice fest! Pics?
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granite_grrl
Sep 29, 2009, 11:45 AM
Post #26372 of 26795
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Jake, I know that you love Rumney and want to defend it, but face the facts. RRG = 1920 Routes at 145 Walls in 10 Regions Yes, there are a number of steep climbs at Rumney, but there are single crags at the Red that have more steep climbs than all of Rumney. The climbs at the Red tend to be long too. There are some long climbs at Rumney, but in general the routes tend to be short....even if they aren't short they're often still very bouldery. In closing: Jake, go to the Red. You need to get out of the North East.
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epoch
Moderator
Sep 29, 2009, 12:03 PM
Post #26373 of 26795
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LET IT SNOW!!!!
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camhead
Sep 29, 2009, 1:31 PM
Post #26374 of 26795
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granite_grrl wrote: Jake, I know that you love Rumney and want to defend it, but face the facts. RRG = 1920 Routes at 145 Walls in 10 Regions Yes, there are a number of steep climbs at Rumney, but there are single crags at the Red that have more steep climbs than all of Rumney. The climbs at the Red tend to be long too. There are some long climbs at Rumney, but in general the routes tend to be short....even if they aren't short they're often still very bouldery. In closing: Jake, go to the Red. You need to get out of the North East. werd. And yeah, I need to get to Rumney, too; it is a huge gap in my overall climbing experience across the nation. I still think that the above climb I was dissing on looks terrible, though. Just to compete, here's some RRG porn:
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granite_grrl
Sep 29, 2009, 2:01 PM
Post #26375 of 26795
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Jake, I know that you love Rumney and want to defend it, but face the facts. RRG = 1920 Routes at 145 Walls in 10 Regions Yes, there are a number of steep climbs at Rumney, but there are single crags at the Red that have more steep climbs than all of Rumney. The climbs at the Red tend to be long too. There are some long climbs at Rumney, but in general the routes tend to be short....even if they aren't short they're often still very bouldery. In closing: Jake, go to the Red. You need to get out of the North East. werd. And yeah, I need to get to Rumney, too; it is a huge gap in my overall climbing experience across the nation. I think Rumney was a bit disappointing 'cause the other "word class" areas that I've been to just go on and on and on....and you look up at Rumney and you say....that's all there is? What I got on was fun for the most part. I really sucked at it 'cause it was so bouldery, but it would be a good place to go and work my weaknesses for a while.
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