Some people take their outside projects inside by setting an approximate replica of the problem/route or sections of it. The setters at our gym often take inspiration from problems they've been working on outside.
In both those situations, having someone absolutely crush a problem that they are struggling on is likely to be a bit discouraging.
Then those people need to grow up and learn that there will always be someone who climbs harder than them.
There are lots of climbers who warm up on my projects, and there are lots of climbers on whose projects I warm up. This is the way it is. If you don't like it, you're in big trouble. I'd say "go find another sport," but I'm having trouble thinking of another sport in which someone so sensitive would be happy.
Jay
This is my thought. depending on the group i'm with i could be the strongest or the weakest. I climb what i'm going to climb weather it's anyone's or project. Eventually your projects will be your warm ups and you can move on to projecting your friend's warm up
as long as you're not an ass about it, just climb and move on.
Come to think of it, I think I helped inspire Angry in just such a way recently. A while back there was a 12+/13- trad route we were on. I knew it was a little beyond me, but figured it was within his grasp. He worked the opening moves a little, and couldn't work out the sequence. He was ready to pack it in and move on. But I got on it and flailed to a slightly higher spot, and watching me flail made him decide to try again. He hung once, and then climbed the rest of it clean. Next time he came back, he sent it first try.
In short - watching someone weaker than you (in this case, me) can be a great inspiration!
GO
This has happened with me an my partner outside as well, though at a much lower level. It was very motivating for both of us to see the other flail for a bit. Something about these routes makes me give an extra fist pump at the top...
GO TEAM!!
but I generally get a little excited at the top...
I see what you're saying and it can transfer (a little) into the gym, for me at least, and if the people around me are in that "team" frame of mind.
So, if you don't care about doing that problem, you won't do it. Well, that's not a very interesting topic of discussion.
The original line of conversation wasn't that interesting.
In reply to:
One that is at least slightly interesting, is what if you do want to do that specific problem.
That's still not really interesting as far as I'm concerned. Yes, I will climb through if I want to do that specific problem; there's no compelling reason not to.
I give people space on their projects when it's inconsequential for me to do so. Sometimes I like to have space to work things down myself. I don't demand or expect it. I don't cry or get upset when I don't get it. I simply prefer it if it works out that way.
Noobs who seem to always climb as far away from the strong climbers as possible appear to prefer to have that space.
I don't assume that someone will react negatively because I can climb their project effortlessly; I know that sometimes people do.
(This post was edited by kriso9tails on Oct 21, 2009, 7:12 PM)
Well usually I try to get to the wall about an hour before the busy time so that I get a good warm-up and get to try the problems I want before others get there. The school wall I've been climbing on is pretty small so really only one person can boulder at a time so you pretty much just take turns. Everything on the wall is pretty easy too, though yesterday me and one of the guys that work there set a pretty good low V4 that I think will be good but I think we'll be the only two able to do it for a while. Once people get there I just kind of talk with them and just take turns working on problems with them giving them help and advise if they ask. But of course I don't really have a planned "work out" so I pretty much just try to do all of the routes on the wall at least once before I go home (theres only like 15 routes all crammed together) So it's basically like I do a circuit then go home.
One that is at least slightly interesting, is what if you do want to do that specific problem.
The poll doesn't really capture all the different shades of "want." Petsfed's response simply shows the alternate perspective of mine from the gym employees - some people "want" to climb you're problem just for social comparison. In other words, there needs to be a response like "Sure, climb my problem you DICK!" because it has nothing to do with being "psyched," "working a circuit, or just being "strong." I agree with the 24:1 ratio if the person jumping in does it in a cool way. But if you assume that the person just "wants" to show you up, that the only rationale has nothing to do with training and only has to do with ego, I'd bet the ratio would rapidly flip. No one likes climbing around a someone who's primary motivation - his/her primary want - is to be a douche.
One that is at least slightly interesting, is what if you do want to do that specific problem.
The poll doesn't really capture all the different shades of "want." Petsfed's response simply shows the alternate perspective of mine from the gym employees - some people "want" to climb you're problem just for social comparison. In other words, there needs to be a response like "Sure, climb my problem you DICK!" because it has nothing to do with being "psyched," "working a circuit, or just being "strong." I agree with the 24:1 ratio if the person jumping in does it in a cool way. But if you assume that the person just "wants" to show you up, that the only rationale has nothing to do with training and only has to do with ego, I'd bet the ratio would rapidly flip. No one likes climbing around a someone who's primary motivation - his/her primary want - is to be a douche.
The ratio already accounts for that. The 1 out of 24 is the person who makes that assumption.
Re-read the wording of the poll. It doesn't take someone with a background in psychometrics to tell you that they're weighted with positive assumptions about the person's intent.
Somehow every time I meet this dude in the crag he will walk up on one of my projects. But I consider it good luck cause always he will gives me beta, shouts encouragements and help me send right after him So it’s a matter of perspective I guess...
Somehow every time I meet this dude in the crag he will walk up on one of my projects. But I consider it good luck cause always he will gives me beta, shouts encouragements and help me send right after him So it’s a matter of perspective I guess...
Sometimes it can be a bit rude to warm up on someone's project; it's all about how you carry yourself. My wife and were at the bouldering gym; powerful, steep, bouldering is not what she is best at, and she was working on a route that was pretty hard for her. A high-school age strong kid came in, and did precisely the thing bandycoot described on page 1 here: he looked at her, said nothing, cruised her project, and then walked off. It was obviously rude; there were plenty of other warmups he could have done, and it was entirely an ego trip.
That was an extreme situation. Usually, especially outside, you will always be warming up on someone's proj, and someone will always be warming up on yours, like JT said.
I was that guy today. These group was working on what looked like a fun problem so I hopped on it and it was easier than I thought it would be. I was going to clash with someone on the finishing hold so I dynoed to skip the last move. When I sat down they started talking and said I made it look easy and they didn't even want to try it again. They left soon after.
If someone can warm up on my project, more power to them. I enjoy friendly competition, but jealousy and constantly measuring yourself against others is a sign of no self confidence. We're all good, and bad, at different things. I love climbing, but am not particularly great at it. Doesn't affect my enthusiasm for it one bit. OTOH I've lost more than a few friends due to my relative material success, and I go out of my way NOT to rub it in their faces, and I gladly share anything I have. Some people just can't stand when you do better than them I guess. I have no time for them. Grow up.
... I can think of only one ocasion when I have flashed someone's projectand really pissed off that person, and I did it deliberately. It was in Albany. I came into the gym relatively early, there weren't a lot of people, and I couldn't see any obvious labels that indicated which problems were easier or harder. There was one other guy thereworking on something. I said hi and politely asked him if he could point me to something easy for a warmup. ...
I find it quite a bit self-centered when someone I've never seen before expects me to know what's easy for them. I'm often in a good enough mood to go through the "what's easy for you?"-motion (where people exaggerate their ability to render any given advice useless anyway...) Otherwise I may tell them "Well, the staircase to the second floor is quite easy..." It's always a laugh seeing them trying to make me care about them blowing me out of the water after that
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